Do you guys think it's necessary to run motorcycle oil on an XR280R? Will standard/car oil do?

Hey,
This is a common question that has been asked several times. You will get many different answers. What it boils down to in my mind, is the fact that your XR uses the same oil for the motor and the tranny. Autos, obviously, use separate oils to lube the motor and tranny. Would you use motor oil in the tranny of your auto?

The key word here is tranny. I experienced first hand, through smoother shifting and a quieter tranny that 4-stroke motorcycle oil is better for lubing your tranny than standard automotive oil. I use Honda GN4, but any 4-stroke motorcycle oil will work. I recommend you go out and buy some motorcycle oil and try it once. If you don't notice any difference in your tranny, then stick with auto oil, or whatever is the cheapest. Good luck.

One of the key issues here are the friction modifiers found in automotive oils. If used in your bike, where the motor and tranny share the same oil, there could be issues with clutch slippage.

BigLou is spot on about this. if you look on the back of the oil container you are about to purchase, true motorcycle oils usally say something like 'wet clutch compatible'. automotive engine oils don't say this. i'm willing to pay a bit more for a MC oil that assures me i won't have problems with my gear box/clutch due to oil/gearbox incompatiblity.
since you bike is air cooled, using a true full synthetic would be a really good idead, due to the high operating temperatures (especially in difficult terrain).

hey Lou, what's your favourite Rocky?

The first one! A classic. BTW-I was noticing that on the Yamalube 4-R containers it says "Non Friction Modified".

I still use Mobile One 15w50 in my VOR's. Even after chatting with the Mobil techs at the Indy show..they didn't say anything to make me want to change. For $4.5 a quart its a good deal. And as was said before the friction modifiers that result in the "Energy Conservation" rating in the little circle on the back of the bottle are key. If the oil has the "Energy Conservation" rating in the lower ring of that circle, DON'T use it in a wet clutch application. If the bottle DOESN'T have that Energy Conservation rating in that circle, its OK. I have seen three high quality Automotive Synthetics without that "EC" rating. Mobil One 15w50 (NO OTHER Mobile One Automotive, oil just the 15w50 as all the other weight Mobile One DO have the "EC" rating), Castrol Syntec 5w50, and the new Rotella "T". I choose the Mobile One and so far have not seen any reason over this last year to do otherwize. I use the standard Castrol GTX 20w50 in my old 1982 Husqvarna. There are a ton of postings from people who actually know about oil on the DRN forum...just search for Mobile One and you will have enough reading to last a life time on this subject. Next winter I think I will try that new BelRay 0-40 Synthetic. The cold start characteristics will sway me. But when things warm up....back to that tried and true.

In all my xrs (200, 200, and 500). I've run castrol 10/40. Never had a clutch slip or wear out. Maybe I'm lucky. I change it often because it's cheap. Does your manual say not to use auto oil?

I use Mobil 1 15/50 too, but buy it at Target for $2.97 a quart!! FYI

LOL PeteN....this place doesn't have a Target. We are still in the dark ages out here! Walmart is as good as it gets...the next best place is a TRACTOR and FARM implement store. So I'm stuck with $4.50.

Red Cap 15-50 baby.....friction modifiers or not.

I have yet to read ONE SINGLE SOLITARY POST, from anyone credible on this site, that said they experienced clutch slippage or some bizzare engine failure due to using "car" oil...aka, Mobil 1 trisynthetic. Far more people are vouching for it, after YEARS...Y E A R S of use. Personally I like the fact I can get it in the big jug and not have all those little bottles polluting the landfills....that's what diapers are for!