If you spot anything obvious, please email me so I can correct my posts.
There is a wealth of information in amongst the KDX forum but I'll try to cover the most commonly asked questions. Some may seem a bit obscure and others will have been missed out. If you have ideas for other questions that you've seen often in here, and are willing to research & contribute, please email me the question & post number, post your answer and I'll add it to the first post so that we've got some kind of index. Or just email the question & if I've got time, I'll look into it. (it'd be nice if whilst others researched info for themselves, kept a record so it could be added). If you want to add to one of my answers, email me the info & I'll edit the post. If we could try to keep it a tidy thread it'll make life easier. I don't have any moderator abilities at cleaning up threads, so am hoping that we can all work together in this.

I'm also hoping this will complement Canadian Dave's pages and be of some use for all of us - I've had no feedback if I'm wasting my time or not, so just keep an eye on the "post read" count, which is not an accurate indication as to whether anyone is really reading it or seeing it's just me waffling.

Oh, other questions I've got to tackle: what pipe (covered - but to have more info added in once the search function is up & running again) & which spark arrestor (plus how can I tell I've got one), what piston (plus references to proof of 220 pistons grenading), also FMF/pipe quality, leaking exhaust, XR fork springs (with coverage of installation), modified kickstarter & problems with stocker, radiator overflow bottle. Jetting I won't touch, as I don't understand it at all, but there are plenty of old threads & articles covering it - if someone would be willing to locate rational threads, could you please cover it. The only thing I will happily direct people to are the JustKDX site jetting pages and Eric Gorr's web page ( www.eric-gorr.com ) But again, email me if you think of any others - this is not for me, this is for all of us. (I'm not going through all the threads, just looking at likely ones & hopefully choosing relevant information)

Post 2: Rattling KDX
Post 3: Carb mod for 200s & 220s (incomplete reply, still being worked on)
Post 4: Lowering a KDX also includes links for sources for longer suspension rods
Post 5: How/why to modify the airbox lid
Post 6: 200 v 220
Post 7: What pipe is best for my bike and what manufacturers make one?
Post 8: Help, my brake caliper pins are stuck, what do I do?
Post 9: Is there an MX fender for my KDX? )thanks KDX Freestyle

Sorry this has taken so long, it's not forgotten, just life gets in the way, along with ride time Hopefully over the Xmas break I'll find more time.

My bike makes a rattling sound at idle, is this normal?

Yes. Many discussions have been held about this and the cause has not been determined. Jeff Fredette recommends running a full quart of oil in the transmission and the noise should lessen.

If the noise you’re concerned about does not quieten down with more oil or gets louder with higher RPMs, maybe you should inspect the KIPS valve to ensure it’s working correctly. A good thread about this is: http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/sh...?threadid=71461

My 220 has a 33mm carb, is this better than a larger carb?

No. The 200 has a 35mm carb which is possible to bolt straight onto the 220. A cheaper option would be to bore the 33mm carb out to a 36mm with a divider plate.

It is not just for 220s either: In the words of Carncarvr: “How it changes the 200
Better everything. You will not be disappointed! As good an improvement as a pipe.
Going from 35mm to 36mm is going to hurt overrev? No.
Why not buy a larger bore carb?
Cuz that carb still would not have the divider installed, would not have the jet screen cleaned up, would not have the TV machined.
Besides not fitting for diddle.”
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/sh...?threadid=33209

EDIT: as at 31/3/03 (NZ time) this topic is under discussion under a separate thread - Michelle

How do I lower my KDX?

You can get longer suspension rods ( http://www.koubalink.com/kdxinstall.html or www.devolracing.com )
You can cut down the seat
You can get another sole placed on your boots
You can get it professionally lowered using spacers to reduce suspension travel.
Before you do any of these, ride the bike a bit longer & see how you go, then decide which option is best for you.
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/sh...p?threadid=8149
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/sh...?threadid=74204

Why/how should I modify my airbox lid.

The first thing a KDX owner does is remove the snorkel to allow better air flow into the airbox. Those of us who bought a 2nd hand bike have probably never seen one, but it sits at the back of the airbox lid. Removal leaves a hole so the air can flow through a bit more.
Drilling more holes in the airbox lid means even better air flow. Total removal of the airbox lid is fine, but it will mean relocation of the CDI unit. (see post by Lew)

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/home...e/airboxmod.jpg is a good picture of a modified lid. Picture thanks to Brush.

“If you're worried about dirt getting into the air box, try this.
Cut a piece of panty hose(nylons) to size and stretch it tightly over the open air box.
This will prevent any dirt from getting in and will act as a drum skin bouncing off any dirt. Also acts as a pre filter.” (posted by BucKat, 25.1.03) thread: http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/sh...?threadid=70506

“I removed mine completely. This way I have the option of putting it back stock should the need arise. You can relocate the CDI to the cross member. There is already a tapped whole and reuse the bolt from the original location. I did place some rubber faucet washers under it to reduce vibration”. ~ Lew (25.1.03, thread as above)

220 v 200, which is best?

Best information: Dave’s pages: http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/200vs220.html
“200: If you plan to leave your bike absolutely stock, the 200 is the better all around terrain bike. Nice wide power spread with ample low end power and some upper rpm power available if you want to scream it out. Note that by "scream it", I mean relative to the 220. Compared to a typical 125, both the 200 and the 220 are low rpm torquers.
220: The 220 is a complete torque monster in stock form. It is the king of tight sections, the master of nasty conditions. If you want low end power, this baby has it, and lots of it. Probably an ideal bike for tight, rocky, hilly, terrain. The engine is so strong down low, it can be tough to stall. To pull a wheelie, shift up a gear. The 220 will easily pull a gear higher than the 200 in the same conditions, and probably needs to, as it does not turn nearly the revs as the stock 200.”

Now, if you’re asking why Kawasaki makes both models, email them & if you find out please let us know

An interesting thread about a 220 vs bored-out 200 (Eric Gorr bored out to a 225): http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/sh...?threadid=67502

One thing to keep in mind before purchase of either a 200 or 220 – local class rules. Here in New Zealand we have under-200s and over-200s, which means a 220 would be competing against a KX250, CR500, KTM250 etc etc (no, we don’t have an open class).

What pipe is best for my bike and what manufacturers make one?

Manufacturers:
FMF – make both a rev (~30) & a torque pipe (~35) (alpha prefixes before the numbers are the type of finish, the important part is the number)
Pro Circuit (Platinum or Works, no difference in pipe, just finish)
Bills Pipe (89-94, 95-03+) – both torque and rev pipe
DynoPort (95-03+)
Doma (95-03+)

The Doma is reported to be similar to the Pro Circuit and Rev pipes (reference same thread as comments by CC).

The FMF Rev/Desert (~30) pipe performs best on the 220 and the Torque/Woods (~35) pipe performs best on the 200. Confusion does occur due to the 30 pipe sometimes being called a “Torque” pipe for the 220, hence, keep the numbers in mind when ordering a new pipe. The rev pipe (~30) gives more up top, whilst the torque pipe (~35) gives more down low.

“Another item of note ... the -30 is considerably larger than the -35. If I recall my measurements correctly, the -30 is 14" in circumference at the cone weld (where the diverging and converging cones meet..the largest diameter), the -35 is 11".” Cayncarver - http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/sh...?threadid=71451 The measurements he gave may not be 100% correct, but there is a definite difference in circumference.

“Point is, each pipe has its purpose. If it's a 200 and you ride in 3-6 gear all the time, then the -30 will likely suit you. If you ride your 200 1-3 most of the time, the -35 will likely suit you” is a point he makes. However, if the PC pipe is similar to the FMF torque (~30) pipe, I’ve got the wrong pipe – but happened to prefer it over the ~30 pipe, and others may find the same. It depends also on riding style. The 220 is definitely recommended to have the ~35 pipe, I have seen no comments about riding style coming into it.

Bills Pipe is snappy and not recommended for the novice rider. It has more down low than a PC and more mid, but hits quite hard (no reference here, except a conversation I had with a KDX200 rider I know).

Procircuit is similar to the rev pipe, but more everywhere, instead of just top end. – Speedy http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/sh...?threadid=74531 There will be a Platinum II coming out once the existing Platinum pipe stock is used up - 18 guage metal, no difference in pipe. According to the Procircuit forum, the PC is "more mid & low". "The pipe and silencer for the KDX200 gives the bike more bottom, to mid range power. This is where the stock bike really needs help considering that most of the riders use this model for off-road applications." - Pro Circuit http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/sh...?threadid=73296

Dynoport – only reference found was a comment they make a pipe (search function currently not working, will endeavour to find more info at a later stage)

There is also a reference to DG making a pipe, but again, unable to reference this at this stage.

Michelle, about the PC pipe, I just searched on the PC forum for "KDX" and came up with no threads. Since PC makes pipes to enhance what's lacking in their performance, it can't be said that they make pipes just to enhance low and mid range. I have one on my KDX and it mostly just enhanced the top end with just a very slight enhancement low and mid range.

First off, if you could let me know if the FAQ is worth pursuing or not.

Jaguar, the search function's not up & running again yet. (in reply to your post in the FAQ thread)
It goes through the motions, then just says "no threads found".
Thanks for reminding me I needed to post a link to the thread about the PC pipe. This came from the PC dude, not me. All I can tell about my pipe is that I prefer it over the torque pipe (fat lot of use that is). I have to try the torque pipe again & decide why I didn't really like it.
I guess I'm an outta control rider rather than a smooth one lol
To be honest, coming off a YZ80 with a huge hit, I really missed that, so it could be. The 80 was a bit too peaky where it would throw me off the back going uphill if I was a bit too full-on throttle or hit something (tree roots) a bit hard - not the easiest bike to learn to ride on, but fun.
I will go link the post to the PC person's thread. It was a quote, not my observation.
Glad to see someone is at least reading the FAQ, I honestly don't know if it's heading in the right direction & will one day be useful or not. Without feedback from others, it feels like it's just a waste of time (well, not really, because I at least have had something to do whilst pretty much stuck at home).

p.s. I thought I'd try to add a poll, just so maybe I could get some feedback.
And please, if you feel it's not a waste, send me some bloody other common questions, I'm not exactly the only person who notices a pattern.
Michelle
edited to not look like I was posting a poll about Jaguar lol (sorry chief)

Michelle,

I think it's a great idea! Keep up the good work :thumb: My one comment would be that if people want to reply, start a new thread or it will become a discussion instead of an information resource. How about a FAQ about Reeds and Reed Valves? There seems to be a fair amount of debate about Boyesen Power reeds vs Rad Valve vs Vforce Delta 2 Reeds and Cage.

Thanks,

Tom