I am splitting my cases this weekend... got the flywheel off with the cheap tool from Dennis Kirk. And I got a harmonic puller that looks perfect for the job from Pep Boys (cheaper and better then the kit they had at harbor freight). I'll have to weld a couple bolts to get the right threads, but thats easy enough. I'll post pictures.

My question is to verify where those bolts anchor. From the service manual, it looks like the puller bolts into the two stronger "webbed into the case" stator mounting points on either side of the crank. These are fairly small fine thread holes, but do have good support on the case. I kind of expected a bigger hole, but I don't see any other threaded holes in the area that could be used.

I wanted to make sure I have the right ones before I go "splitting" things

The stator mount holes are correct.

Be sure to grease the thread ends and use something to keep the end of the crankshaft from getting marred.

Thanks!

Whoo Hoo! Split just fine. A little heat with a propane torch around the crank area on the case made it all drama free.

The Pep Boys puller worked fine, but I had to weld some 5mm threaded rod to larger bolts that go through the puller. Again, not a big deal. Total cost for the puller and the rod was under $20.

I'll post some pictures later... Now to go find out for sure if my carefull cross referencing of Kawasaki part numbers was right or not... if they are, the transmission I bought cheap on ebay for the 1990 KDX-200 is 90% the same as the transmission for my 95... If not, another expensive lesson in being cheap

What's wrong with your 1995 transmission?

The previous owner must have run the wrong kind of sprocket... the splines on the output shaft are stripped. My bike is splineless

As it turns out, the crank seal on the stator side was leaking anyway. Which dissolved a good bit of the stator glue, and it was coming apart and wearing. So the cases had to be split anyway.

Just to update the thread for the archives...

You also need a "bearing splitter" to get the bearings off the crank. Moose makes what looks to be a nice one. I picked one up at Harbor Freight that was a little big, but after grinding on it for a while it worked fine.

Now, how the heck do you get the new bearings in the case and on the crank without hurting them?

You do realize this issue has been covered, 5~10 times a year? Have the crank and the bearings in the freezer for a couple hours. Heat the oven to its lowest setting, 170 degrees f or so. Turn it off and put the cases in there for 5 minutes, till it sizzles a drop of water. The case can be heated with a torch or heat gun also. Bearings and seals do not like going in crooked, neither does the bore. They make special tools that match the OD of the outer bearing race, this is where you drive them in with a hammer till its fully seated. If you improvise with a socket, make sure its clean! Do not put the seals in till it cools. Lube the seals and bearings with what ever oil it will be using, my 2 strokes get 927 and the f's get the tranny oil. Drive the seal in till its chamfer meets the chamfer of the bore. Driving them in too far is trouble! Most engines cases can be drawn together with the screws, I really hate hitting the crank with a dead blow or whatever to seat the crank in the right side. Float the crank between the cases, and tighten the screws. Or take a large c clamp on each end of the tranny, the engine mounting faces, and evenly draw the cases together. Save the last little bit till you torque the screws. After the rotor and drive gear are installed, check that the crank is centered with a feeler gauge. A lite tap with the dead blow should move it pretty easy.

Thanks for the reply on the splines.

Thanks for taking the time to write that nice clear summary foxforks, I appreciate it.