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Blew up my 250F (pics inside)

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Posted by: homeslice---------------------

whats up, new guy here. Recently a valve broke off on my 02 YZ250F and destroyed my head and piston (need a replated cylinder too) Is this very common? I really liked the bike before this happened, but it's costing my $1000 to fix it.

I have pic's hosted, but the spam killer won't let me link them, whats up?



Posted by: bclapham---------------------

email them to me

bclapham@scripps.edu



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by homeslice
whats up, new guy here. Recently a valve broke off on my 02 YZ250F and destroyed my head and piston (need a replated cylinder too) Is this very common?


On YZ250Fs that have a lot of hours on them, yes it is pretty common.



Posted by: VintageDirt---------------------

I've felt your pain.



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageDirt
I've felt your pain.



But now Brother VintageDirt has been SAVED.



Posted by: zcookie49---------------------

I just did a top end in my 01 for the first time, wear was light, and the valve clearance was right on.
The crank felt fine and the clutch have very Light wear if hardly any....I have ridden the bike alot as well.......not trying to say that I am an exception....
I just want to know, is it inevitable for the titantium valve to break off, or if you keep up on the maintenace and check the valve clearance ( i guess for me, every season), will it not happen?...My buddy has a 99 yz400f, granted he has wussed out the past 2 years and has only ridden it twice, but he is the orig owner and he has had no problems either....
is it a lack of maintence, ie checking valve clearance mainly?
anything else to check out?



Posted by: Okiewan---------------------

I too have experienced the dropping of the valve. Brother Rich exersized the sloppy crank and life is good again.



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by zcookie49
I just want to know, is it inevitable for the titantium valve to break off, or if you keep up on the maintenace and check the valve clearance ( i guess for me, every season), will it not happen?..


There seems to be a legitimate fatigue life to the titanium valves that no amount maintenance can stop. The good part is they usually give you some warning before it happens. Rule of thumb from my experience is, if the valve shim has to drop more than 10% from it's original value to maintain the correct clearance you are going to break parts.



Quote:
My buddy has a 99 yz400f, granted he has wussed out the past 2 years and has only ridden it twice, but he is the orig owner and he has had no problems either....


He has steel valves in his engine, so the comparison isn't all that valid.



Posted by: zcookie49---------------------

thanks for the facts....
to ask another somewhat stupid question, what type of WARNING should I be looking out for? ie, a pitched noise, terrible sound or what? just asking in case I hear something off the wall, then I know to kill the engine immediately and possibly save damage as opposed blowing it all up...
Or since you said a 10% drop in shim, should I keep in mind that next time I check the valves, instead of shimming if it is close to that amount, replace all of the valves?



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by zcookie49
Or since you said a 10% drop in shim, should I keep in mind that next time I check the valves, instead of shimming if it is close to that amount, replace all of the valves?


Yes that's the best approach. Waiting too long after that usually results in valve heads breaking off and doing some serious damage.



Posted by: rv6junkie---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Rohrich
...Waiting too long after that usually results in valve heads breaking off and doing some serious damage.


I don't have a 4-stroke (thank God ) but I do have a question.

Is there a service interval for the valves? To avoid expensive repairs, why not change them after XX number of hours?



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6junkie
Is there a service interval for the valves? To avoid expensive repairs, why not change them after XX number of hours?


The folks who do exactly that never have any real problems with these bikes. They really are good tough bikes, but you have to respect the service intervals. The little YZFs have proven to be a lot more robust than the CRF250, and RMZ 250 engines.

Lots of people fall into the trap of assuming that because it's a four-stroke you just have to change the oil and keep the air filter clean and never do any other work, just like their old XR75. Clueless magazine gits and numbskulls spouting giggerish on random websites hasn't helped this much.



Posted by: KelvinKDX---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Rohrich
Lots of people fall into the trap of assuming that because it's a four-stroke you just have to change the oil and keep the air filter clean and never do any other work, just like their old XR75. Clueless magazine gits and numbskulls spouting giggerish on random websites hasn't helped this much.


Rich - are you serious!? Was i actually suppossed to clean the air filter on my XR75?? I'm not really sure if i even ran an air filter - but you know the thing would never stop running.

Actually this has been an informative thread for me as i am thinking about picking up an late model used WR250f and this has me thinking baout the valve issue.



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by KelvinKDX
Actually this has been an informative thread for me as i am thinking about picking up an late model used WR250f and this has me thinking baout the valve issue.


The bulk of the 250F engines we've had to rebuild after a broken valve did it's thing were second owners. It usually goes something like this. First owner rides it hard and maybe does a top end and shims the valves during it's life span. He sells it to a new guy telling him the top end is fresh and the bike has been a model of reliability, which is all true. The problem is the new owner has no idea how many hours are really on the bike so he won't really know if the cam chain is worn and tearing up the end of the crank, or if the valves are worn to the point of breaking. Chances are good he'll never find out how much the clearance has changed on the valves unless the original owner kept great records and is totally honest (a fairly rare combination) . So the new owner rides his bike and loves it to death until somthing breaks, or if he is lucky the valve clearance closes up tight enough to keep it from starting and he asks someone about it. Let me tell you that's an INTERESTING conversation to have with a customer.

That's why when I rebuilt Okie's 250F I changed the piston, crank, cam chain, main bearings, output shaft bearings, valves, and valves springs. If the bike is a couple of years old and has been ridden regularly you'll want to see receipts for similar work. Otherwise you have to treat them like you are buying a used 125cc two-stroke race bike and assume it will need some real work.

The 250Fs from ALL manufacturers will soon be the picture in the dictionary next to the phrase Caveat Emptor .

They really are fantastic bikes but they aren't XRs and can't be treated like one.



Posted by: homeslice---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Rohrich
The bulk of the 250F engines we've had to rebuild after a broken valve did it's thing were second owners. It usually goes something like this. First owner rides it hard and maybe does a top end and shims the valves during it's life span. He sells it to a new guy telling him the top end is fresh and the bike has been a model of reliability, which is all true. The problem is the new owner has no idea how many hours are really on the bike so he won't really know if the cam chain is worn and tearing up the end of the crank, or if the valves are worn to the point of breaking. Chances are good he'll never find out how much the clearance has changed on the valves unless the original owner kept great records and is totally honest (a fairly rare combination) . So the new owner rides his bike and loves it to death until somthing breaks, or if he is lucky the valve clearance closes up tight enough to keep it from starting and he asks someone about it. Let me tell you that's an INTERESTING conversation to have with a customer.

That's why when I rebuilt Okie's 250F I changed the piston, crank, cam chain, main bearings, output shaft bearings, valves, and valves springs. If the bike is a couple of years old and has been ridden regularly you'll want to see receipts for similar work. Otherwise you have to treat them like you are buying a used 125cc two-stroke race bike and assume it will need some real work.


Funny. I was the 2nd owner of my 250F and it blew on me. THe first owner raced it only one season. I have never had any problems starting it, so why have the valves shimmed if there were no problematic symptoms? I was getting ready to sell it anyway.
Guess I learned my lesson the hard way... I am never going to buy another used four stroke. $1000 in maintenence after 1.5 seasons of riding is f-n rediculous. I'm gonna ride it the rest of this season then sell the POS.
If you think about it I would be way better off buying a brand new one from the beginning, I only saved about $1500 buying used.



Posted by: KelvinKDX---------------------

homeslice & Rich - thanks for the advice. I think i'll lean towards a new 4-stroke or buy one from someone on DRN who i know is anal about maintenance. Or maybe one from someone who never rides ... i won't mention any names.



Posted by: VintageDirt---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by KelvinKDX
Or maybe one from someone who never rides ... i won't mention any names.
Hey now, I rode weedend before last. And anyway mine's not for sale, at least not at a reasonable price.



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageDirt
And anyway mine's not for sale, at least not at a reasonable price.



Wes - Your bike is way to trick to sell now.



Posted by: homeslice---------------------

Rick,

Should I be worried about my crank? I got out all the shavings I could and drained oil through it. Ive talked to numerous guys who have tons of miles on their stock bottom end.



Posted by: bclapham---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Rohrich
Otherwise you have to treat them like you are buying a used 125cc two-stroke race bike and assume it will need some real work.


but the big difference is that you can do the crank, mains, seals and piston in a 125 for less than $500 and most mere mortals can do the work themselves in one evening.

homeslice: since the top end went bang, have you ridden it much? if so i would guess you might be OK, but you will have to live with the paranoia.

we have seen quite a few assorted "Fs" go bang here and often it is attributed to the crank seals going bad and the crankcase pressure forcing oil out somewhere....just a theory, ive also seen plenty of honda 450s smoking like my suzuki on start up- that cant be good.



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by bclapham
ive also seen plenty of honda 450s smoking like my suzuki on start up- that cant be good.


The Hondas and the RMZs have only a single compression ring on the piston. Without the the second compresison ring working as an oil scraper , consumption will always be high especially when the engine is cold. The more they wear the more they will pass oil.

It's not a coincidence that Honda warns about oil consumption in the service manual. I've seen lots of well meaning but uninformed types theorizing that an extra hard break-in will somehow keep these engines from consuming oil. It just ain't so.



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by homeslice
Rick,

Should I be worried about my crank? I got out all the shavings I could and drained oil through it. Ive talked to numerous guys who have tons of miles on their stock bottom end.


The main bearings mating surface of the cranks wear and allow the crank to move which can cause piston to valve contact. The cam chain gear on the end of the cranks also wear which also causes problems with chain wear and inaccurate valve timing. Last but not least the small end bearing surface of the connecting rods are prone to galling in engines that have been ridden hard and not maintained properly. These are all things that really should be checked.

In other words, YES I would be concerned about the crank because it's a disposable item in these engines just like it is in a 125cc two-stroke., and it sounds like there are a lot of hours on this engine.



Posted by: bclapham---------------------

thats another thing i have heard, a reason why the RMZ/KXF are going bad- people are worried about the oil use and using too much oil in the engine.

BTW Rich, a lot of the Honda450s we have seen fail, have had problems blowing oil from the breather into the airbox- whats causing this? too much engine case pressure from bad seals????



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by bclapham
BTW Rich, a lot of the Honda450s we have seen fail, have had problems blowing oil from the breather into the airbox- whats causing this? too much engine case pressure from bad seals????


The single compression ring wears out and blow by increases. When blow by goes up so does crankcase pressure and oil gets blown through the breather tube, which is routed into the airbox on the Honda.

Simple solution is to change the rings at the appropriate intervals.
Rerouting the breather tube into a small external filter is a good idea as well.



Posted by: bclapham---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Rohrich
The single compression ring wears out and blow by increases. When blow by goes up so does crankcase pressure and oil gets blown through the breather tube, which is routed into the airbox on the Honda.

Simple solution is to change the rings at the appropriate intervals.
Rerouting the breather tube into a small external filter is a good idea as well.


ahh, i see, it all becomes clear now- its the same deal as my 86 VW GTI with 170K on the clock!



Posted by: mxer842---------------------

Rich, when would you reccomend a bottom end job to be done? My '03 is apart now for a top end. It has a little under a year of racing on it by a fast B rider, and then 30 hours on it by me.

How much are just the seals?



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by mxer842
Rich, when would you reccomend a bottom end job to be done? My '03 is apart now for a top end. It has a little under a year of racing on it by a fast B rider, and then 30 hours on it by me.

How much are just the seals?


It's my opinion that the crank should be rebuilt or replaced once a season on a 250F that has been raced regularly . Seals aren't an issue on these bikes.



Posted by: mxer842---------------------

Thanks Rich!



Posted by: homeslice---------------------

Rich, another question for ya.
Have you ever split the case on one of these? I understand you need a clutch puller from yamaha to do it properly?

I think there's a piece of piston in one of my gears, the bike locks up at a certain point when we turn it over in gear.
All I want to do is get that crap out of the gears, not looking to replace the crank or anything like that.
Any advice?



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by homeslice
Rich, another question for ya.
Have you ever split the case on one of these? I understand you need a clutch puller from yamaha to do it properly?


I've split more of these than I can count at this point.

No special Yamaha tools are needed but a press and a freezer is very useful for doing the crank main bearings.



Posted by: homeslice---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Rohrich
I've split more of these than I can count at this point.





Thanks for your replys Rich. I have a couple more questions. I bought a brand new head gasket and base gasket for the new top end and put it all together and in the bike. Now i have to take the head and cylinder off again to split the case. Can I reuse the head and base gaskets? They just sat overnight and were torqued to spec, plus the engine has not been ran.


The crank is 2 thousandths out of spec, is it ok to run it like that?



Posted by: mxer842---------------------

If it's out of spec, replace or rebuild. Period.



Posted by: ben.handasyde---------------------

Rich, you mntioned not needing and special tools what about getting the magneto off and splitting the actual cases themselves?



Posted by: NO HAND---------------------

Rich, Thanks for taking the time to share that info. It's priceless. I wonder why the valve springs have to be changed also.



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by homeslice
Now i have to take the head and cylinder off again to split the case. Can I reuse the head and base gaskets? They just sat overnight and were torqued to spec, plus the engine has not been ran.


You can probably reuse the base gasket but the head gasket you only get one shot at so replace it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by homeslice
The crank is 2 thousandths out of spec, is it ok to run it like that?


What exactly was .002” out of spec?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ben.handasyde
Rich, you mntioned not needing and special tools what about getting the magneto off and splitting the actual cases themselves?


Ben – I assume anyone who is working on their bikes has a flywheel puller at the minimum. If not then they need to invest the $8.00 to get one. I haven't found a case splitting tool to be required .


Quote:
Originally Posted by NO HAND
I wonder why the valve springs have to be changed also.



Well they probably see the worst environment in the engine so they are subject to huge stress. Lots of heat is generated as they open and close and only minimal cooling is provided by the oil which spells short life. If the material spec was better than they would probably last longer but they would cost a ton more and people would be less likely to change them. Chicken or the egg sort of thing. Any engine that spends a lot of time above 9000 rpm is going to need more frequent valve spring replacement than low rpm engines even with good materials Warren Johnson said that the valve spring bill alone for his ProStock team is $72,000 per year. I figure we are getting off cheap in comparison.


Cost and frequency of maintenance is proportional to peak rpm I'm afraid.




Posted by: homeslice---------------------

Quote:
Rich, you mntioned not needing and special tools what about getting the magneto off and splitting the actual cases themselves?


You dont need to pull the magneto off to split the cases on a 250F.

Quote:
What exactly was .002” out of spec?

I put a dial indicator on the crank halves (counterbalance weights) with the crank still in the case and it was .004" and .002" was listed as in spec.



Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by homeslice
You dont need to pull the magneto off to split the cases on a 250F.


But you will need one to get the crank out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by homeslice
I put a dial indicator on the crank halves (counterbalance weights) with the crank still in the case and it was .004" and .002" was listed as in spec.


Sounds like the main bearings are cooked. Make sure and check the machined surface of the crank where it meets the main bearings. It's common for that portion of the crank to get torn up from the bearing's inner race, which means you can't rebuild it. 250F cranks tend to be throw aways probably 80% of the time.




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