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Please help, i have a jetting question
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Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

hi, i just got my bike a few months ago and i put the stock pipe back on when i got the bike. little did i know that he had the carb jetted for the fmf. Now i have to completly clean my carb. well the stock stuff is way differnt than what i got. The stock main jet is 160 i got 155 and the stock pilot i think is 42 and i got a 48. Does this sound like the correct jetting for an fmf pipe. Also if i take the snokel of my airbox to get better airflow, will i have to buy more jetts, if so which ones should i buy. Also does anyone know like the cheapesy place to get a top end rebuild.

Posted by: the trail rider---------------------

you should have a 42 pilot and 142 or 145 main. the jet sizes you said were something like for the 35mm off the kdx 200. you are running way rich.hope that helps.

Posted by: NM_KDX200---------------------

Straight from the FMF site, adjust for your altitude:

We developed these specs with a 32:1 fuel to oil mixing ratio of a 50/50 mix of race fuel and super unleaded, 0 - 1500 ft altitude at 70 degrees outside temperature.
Your choice: KAWASAKI --> 2001 --> KDX220R

Jetting Information
Main Jet: 145-148
Pilot Jet: 42
Needle: R1173L
Needle Position: 3RD
Power Jet: N/A
Air Screw: 1.5
Fuel Screw: N/A
Comments: Remove airbox lid snorkel
See: http://www.fmfracing.com/jetting_center.aspx

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

why is my jetting so high then???? i really am kinda confused.

Posted by: Green Hornet---------------------

What is the jetting setup? Numbers Please
This is the STOCK JETTING CONFIG:
220-42 Pilot, 1173 Needle, 145 or 148 Main
200- 48 Pilot, 1174 Needle, 160 Main
What u got??
This is Canadian Dave's Recommendations:

1995 to 2003 KDX200

Stock -Run the stock R1174K jet needle in the second from the top clip position, 45 pilot jet, 155 main jet and fine-tune the pilot circuit using the air screw.

With a performance pipe/expansion chamber, the air box lid removed and the stock or a performance silencer run a 42/45 pilot, R1174K jet needle in the mid clip position, a 152/155 main jet fine tune the pilot circuit using the air screw.

1997 to 2003 KDX220

Stock run a 42 pilot jet,the stock R1173L jet needle in the second from the top clip position, a 142/145 main jet and fine tune the pilot circuit using the air screw.

With a performance pipe/expansion chamber, air box mods , the factory or after-market silencer and the stock 33mm carburetor run a 42 pilot, the stock R1173L jet needle in the second from the top clip position, a 145/148 main jet and fine tune the pilot circuit using the air screw.

Same as above but with your carburetor bored between 35 and 36mm or running a 1988 to 2003 KDX200 35mm carb jet according to 95 to 2003 KDX200 requirements.

Addition of Boyesen reeds or a Boyesen RAD Valve will require you to lean the pilot and main jet one size and readjust your air screw.

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

my pilot is a 48 and my main jet is a 155, does this make sence for a kdx220?

Posted by: Green Hornet---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by kdx220freak

my pilot is a 48 and my main jet is a 155, does this make sence for a kdx220?

Do you have a 35mm carb on it??
Then it would make sense

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

i will go get the carb id. Im really not sure if i got a 35mm on there cause i bought the bike from a guy a few months ago.

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

the only numbers that i could find on the carb, were

PWK
V981 A015

thats all i found it was on the side right above the bowl.

Posted by: lepper---------------------

Measure the thing already....

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

i dont really have anything to measure it with. ANd i would not know were to measure

Posted by: lepper---------------------

Measure the mouth pointing toward the motor. If you have a tape measure that has metric measurements or get standard measurement then you can get on the internet to convert it.

33mm is 220
35mm is 200

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

ok i will do it right now. brb

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

well, i got like a slight bit over 34mm. Im not sure how accurate it was though cause, it is circular and i was using something flat to measure the length. Then i used a ruler and got a little over 1 and 3/8 which came out to be 3.995mm. SO im guessing i have a carb from a kdx200? Is there a way to tell if the carb was bored or just switched?

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

i didnt mean 3.995mm i meant 34.995mm.

Posted by: lepper---------------------

Most will not bore it without having a plate put in the other side. More than likely it's off of a 200. Your jetting is probably close for the carb. I'd drop the main to a 152 and put the 42 back in though.....

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

My mods will be a pipe, and silencer, modified air box, and reeds. What do you think i should have my jetting at??

Posted by: lepper---------------------

I have all that and more, I'm running a 150 main and a 40 pilot. What elevation are you at... it makes a difference. 152/42 would be a good starting point. Some would have you start at a 155/48 or 45 combo but you'd just end up dropping down....

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

hmm im not really sure, i will check my elevation and get back to you. Anyway the stock pilot is 42 right? why would you reccomend chaning it back to a 42?? Any help would be great. Also do you know what the pilot jets do verses the main jets??

hmm, i wonder if my motor is from a kdx200.

Posted by: lepper---------------------

Pilot controls 0 to 1/8 throttle and overall, needle from 1/8th to 1/2 and main the rest. Are you having problems right now? And in what range?

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

according to this map i am like about anywhere from 500-2000ft above sea level.

evation map here

Posted by: lepper---------------------

The needle and air screw also affect things.... just depends on what problems your having...

Posted by: lepper---------------------

The higher the elevation, the more air you need to put to it. If you run on the lean side then you can use the airscrew to adjust for the changes. Smaller jets means leaner.

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

well here is how it all happend. I got the bike like in july. He had an fmfpipe and silncer on the bike. He also gave me the stock pipe. I was not very experienced at riding at that time. So i put the stock pipe on without knowing i had to rejett my bike. It ran ok, but it smoked alot. Only when i was racing my friend did it kinda slow down smoking. Anyway, i was warming the bike up and it starting to sound like the piston was slapping, before i could turn it off it stalled. So i pulled out the plug and it had about 1/8 of carbon and oil all over it. So i put a new plug in and it ran great. But i only ran it for a few seconds. Well, i pulled the kips valve off and there was a ton of sluge, so right now i am dismanteing the top end the clean and rebuild it.

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

so at my elevation i should make my pilot like a 44 or something to start or would you reccomend a 42 cause of the reeds and pipe and modified air box.

Posted by: lepper---------------------

When you give it air... you are leaning it out. Worn reeds will mimic rich jetting, and worn rings will mimic lean jetting.
Sounds like your reeds were shot!

Did you do a compression check on it before you tore it down?
152/42 should be a good starting point but you may even be going down one more size... depends on how your bike reacts.

Posted by: lepper---------------------

HERE is a good jetting primer... I would print it out and study it. You will be using the principles in it as long as you own a 2 stroke bike.

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

wel, i couldnt preform a compression test cause the tank was in the way, and i cant now cause it wont run, (cause im taking it apart) im gonna rebuild the top end and get new reeds. Thanks for your help, no one would answer. One more question, is there any advantages of having a kdx200 carb on a kdx220 motor. Will i lose my torque cause it is not the right carb??

Posted by: lepper---------------------

You won't have as much torque but you will gain alot of topend. If you want to get that torque back... get your carb bored and a plate put in by http://www.RB-DESIGNS.com , I have it and it is the best of both worlds. Ron is the best machinist I have seen. It will run you $165

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

so a 33mm will give alot of torque and a 35mm will give me less but like a 36 mm will give me more??

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

also will i have better acceleration with this carb or a 33mm??

Posted by: lepper---------------------

The 220 is a stump puller with the 33mm, with a 35mm it will rev out longer and would outrun the 220 with the 33mm.

Posted by: lepper---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by kdx220freak

so a 33mm will give alot of torque and a 35mm will give me less but like a 36 mm will give me more??

It's the plate that makes the difference. It acts like a 33 and a 36 depending on where the slide is.....

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

ok thanks, do you know how much hp i am losing with the 35?? ALso do you know what the stock sproket is for the front and the back?? It should be the same with a kdx200 and kdx220 right???

Posted by: lepper---------------------

Horse is the same... where it's applied is different. 13T front and rear depends on what Ma Kaw wanted to put on that year on that model. Usually a 13/47 or 13/48.

Bigger sprocket on the rear means more torque. 13 front and 50 rear is good for tight trails. That tranlates into 12 front and 47 rear if you want to experiment. Front is cheaper and easier to change since you don't have to buy a new chain to try until you get it where you like it.

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

ya, right now i have a 13t front and a 49t rear. My gnarly pipe and silencer will help with the torque right????

Posted by: lepper---------------------

Yeah... some.... Put a 12T front sprocket on and see what you think!

It'll cost you all of $7 to try....

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

lol, im kinda confused about the last owner, i mean he has a carb to go faster but a pipe to go slower???

well thanks for your help, man i wondering if my motor is a 200 or a 220, well i guess i will find out. I will update later to tell you what i found. Thanks again man. Do you have any site that you reccomend for parts>??

Posted by: lepper---------------------

http://www.rockymountainmc.com or http://www.monkeybuttparts.com are both good!

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

ok thanks, well i will be on later and maybe i will post some picstures of my project. Do you have any pics of your bike??

Posted by: lepper---------------------

Alot... on another site though....

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

what 2-stroke mix do you reccomend? Also what octane gas do you use>>??

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

what site are your pics on??? could you give me some links???

Posted by: lepper---------------------

I use AMSOIL Interceptor and 93 Octane gas...

Posted by: lepper---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by lepper

HERE is a good jetting primer... I would print it out and study it. You will be using the principles in it as long as you own a 2 stroke bike.

It is on the site referred from this post.

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

were is your bike on this site??

Posted by: lepper---------------------

It's in the Gallery....3rd page , 4th one down...

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

well, i just registered so now i can see your bike. Were exactly is it??

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

o ok

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

darn, it says i got to wait for the administator to activate my account, it will probably be tommorow or something. Well im gonna go take my top end off. This may take a little while but i will keep you updated, thanks a bunch for your help

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

i have just a few more question that you may be able to answer.

will my bike with just the kdx200 carb be able to beat a kdx200.

Also do you think i would be able to pull wheelies in 3rd gear with the kdx220 carb? Do you think i would be able to pull wheelies with the carb i have right now in third gear. If i have new reeds a new top end and a fmf gnarly pipe?? thanks again

Posted by: lepper---------------------

Wheelies are not a problem with either bike as long as they are jetted right. I get 4th gear wheelie without much effort. The 220 is ported a bit different than a 200 and I would think a 200 will still beat you, they are designed for more topend than a 220.

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

darn, well i guess i will have to get reeds and put my pipe on then. Do you know how many mhp you can get your bike up to??? and what mods do you have??

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

well, i can tell it wasnt jetted right cause i cant do wheelies in third. and thats a real nice looking bike. I hope mine looks like that when im done.

Posted by: lepper---------------------

Alot of time and alot of money... bikes are money pits!

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

do you think these bikes are good enough to go about 15 feet in the air with stock suspension. I only weight 135 and i am 5'9 so the stock suspension should be ok right? And what does the trailtech computer you have say your top speed was??

Posted by: lepper---------------------

A KDX is a woods bike. Unless you really build up the suspension I wouldn't take it that high unless you have a landing ramp. I've been up to 68 MPH.... more than fast enough to kill you.

Posted by: NM_KDX200---------------------

I can jump anything on my KDX that I can jump on the KX125, so height won't be a problem. However, it's not a jumping bike (heavier, a little harder to correct in the air, weaker suspension). You can jump and do it well, but if you're going to be jumping all the time, it's not the bike for the job.

I have a trailtech computer- with stock gearing, I'll go 68 mph. With the 13/49 (I think that's right- 13 for sure, then 2 teeth more than stock on the back), top speed is just over 60 mph. 60 is PLENTY fast, believe me. All you have to do is look down at 55 mph and think "I wonder what it would be like to scrape along the ground at this speed and I wonder if I'll hit that tree before I go over the edge of that cliff".

The first thing I do with any used bike is do the top end. Not only do I do the piston/rings, but I'm cleaning the powervalve, checking the reeds, cleaning the carb jets, etc. I want to know that everything is in specs before I go adjusting, buying, etc. Otherwise, you can waste a tremendous amount of time fussing with things that are not right. It's like trying to set your suspension when you've got a flat tire.

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

well i wont be going over jumps all the time. i just built a jump and it is kinda small, but i gotta start somewere. Man i hope the motor is from a kdx220 not a kdx200.

Posted by: lepper---------------------

Run the VIN at http://www.buykawasaki.com

Posted by: m0rie---------------------

On the cylinder it should say what the cc of the cylinder is.

Posted by: kdx220freak---------------------

well, i opened it up but its got alot of like scaring on the sides of the piston, im not sure what thats all about.

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Please help, i have a jetting question

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