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Maxxis Tire changing issues
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Posted by: robwbright---------------------

Is it just me, or is a Maxxis IT a very difficult rear tire to get on the rim?

After we finally got it on, the rim lock was misaligned, and in the process of getting it straightened, we pinched the tube.

Posted by: CaptainObvious---------------------

The great thing about the Maxxis tires are the stiff sidewalls. The thing that sucks about the Maxxis tires when you put 'em on are the stiff sidewalls.

It's not you, they are a bitch to get on and off.

Posted by: robwbright---------------------

That's what I thought . . .

Posted by: SpeedyManiac---------------------

I get my Maxxis tires put on at the dealer. Way less hassle and I get free install when I buy the tires from them. Definitely worth it when dealing with stiff sidewalls and 6 ply tires.

Posted by: Tony Eeds---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptainObvious

The great thing about the Maxxis tires are the stiff sidewalls. The thing that sucks about the Maxxis tires when you put 'em on are the stiff sidewalls.

It's not you, they are a bitch to get on and off.

I just finished putting a Maxxis IT on the BRP about 10 minutes ago. Pinched (I guess) the first tube. I'm waiting to check the tire pressure to see if the second tube worked. Dayum, I hope so ... or I'm in the

Posted by: rm_racer---------------------

Man, those sidewalls are so stiff. I bent my Excel out a bit trying pry it on. I think it was on here where I read some guy popped a tube with those tires on and couldnt tell untill he got home.

Posted by: Papakeith---------------------

I've said it before, and I'll say it again. The key is getting the oposite side of the bead in the drop center of the rim. Stiff sidewall be damned.

Posted by: dales298---------------------

Second on making sure the bead drops, plus liberal use of a good tire lube will reduce the friction and save the rim from abuse.

Dale

Posted by: Tony Eeds---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by rm_racer

I think it was on here where I read some guy popped a tube with those tires on and couldnt tell untill he got home.

I rode 50+ miles with a flat front Maxxis IT on my BRP. I was clocked at 84MPH by a friend beside me, although it was on pavement. On a gravel road, I was going 60+ most of the time.

The bead did not pop loose until I made a 90 degree turn onto the access road to head to the motel. It got kinda loose then ... at least I was only doing about 1 MPH when I turned.

BTW - my second tube held air, but then again so did my first ... there must have been something in the valve stem

What really sux is that they only last 1500 miles on the rear of my pig, so I put on about 4 a year. As practice makes perfect + with my $34 dollar tire changing apparatus ... maybe I can get it down to an hour per tire.

Posted by: YZ165---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Papakeith

I've said it before, and I'll say it again. The key is getting the oposite side of the bead in the drop center of the rim. Stiff sidewall be damned.

Posted by: robwbright---------------------

(Bear in mind that I have changed one tire in the last 15 years, so I'm pretty ignorant about this. I've tried reading around here some, but I had a surprise race scheduled for yesterday (Saturday) and I was trying to get the new rubber on. Thankfully, the race was cancelled for being rained out, but I'm still having trouble and want to ride today (Sunday).

Other issues:

1: Once I finally got it the rear mounted with new tube that didn't leak, there was one 6 inch spot in the tire that was too low in the rim - it wasn't popped "out" and "up" as far as it should be.

I could not figure out how to get it to seat properly until I put about 50lbs in the tire.

However, whenever I let the air out of the tube, the six inch spot went back where it was before.

After much ado, I refilled with 60 lbs, dropped to probably 40 and left it overnight. I don't know whether it will stay in the proper position tomorrow or not.

Any ideas?

2: I'm in the middle of putting a Pirelli MT 83 on the front. We cannot get ANY of the last 8 inches of the 2nd side of the tire seated. We're tearing up the edge of the inside of the tire trying to get it in place.

Having read some more now, I gather that we need to push the top bead down opposite the part that's not seated to give it more room. This, of course, is difficult since we only have one C clamp and the pirelli is quite stiff.

Any other ideas? My rims are now so scratched up from the one tire iron and screwdrivers that we have - the rims looks like crap. (You wouldn't believe how hard it is to find tire irons or even long screwdrivers around here. I've been to the local bike shop and 4-5 auto parts stores - I will definitely be ordering the tire irons shortly.) We're prying so hard I'm afraid of bending or cracking the Excels, which is quite expensive.

Thanks.

Posted by: soulmate33---------------------

Doesn't your local bike shop have a tire machine?

I'd rather spend the 20 bucks than a fortune on my Green Excel rims.

I damaged my Silver excels before.....

If I change from Michelin to Michelin, I usually attempt it myself. I bought this lubricant in a tube from napa called "Sil Glide". I apply this to the beads of the tire & to the inner edge of the rim prior to mounting and seating (it really helps for seating). Tire lube dries out too quickly and gets tacky when it starts to dry.

Posted by: robwbright---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by soulmate33

Doesn't your local bike shop have a tire machine?

I suppose they do - and there's a guy I was going to take them to, but then on Friday they announced that they were having a race at my local track on Saturday. Thus, I didn't have time to get it done and had to do it myself.

Posted by: Patman---------------------

Get some big burley tire spoons then dip or spray them with some Plasti-coat. This should help protect the rims. Gota' use the drop center. Motometal meade himself a sweet tire bar that we used at DW (again big burley leverage!). I've used dish soap, spray silicone, and learned Goop works pretty good too. I think my next tire I'm going to try baby powder.

BTW make sure the rim lock is pushed down when you are trying to bead the tire. That might be causing your problem.

Posted by: dirt bike dave---------------------

One useful tire changing tip I've ever come across is to get the tire warm first. Let it sit out in the hot sun for a few hours if possible. Or if the engine is hot on your car or truck, put the tire under the hood for at least 1/2 hour. A warm tire makes the job much easier.

Posted by: COLEMANAPP---------------------

Use the baby powder on the tube, not on the tire. It'll help it from getting pinched or bound up. I use soapy water on the tire, lots of it.
If you get that 6" spot of the tire where you can't get it to seat without using a bunch of air, try this one. Let a little air out, soak the area with the soapy water, use you tire iron to help seat that tough area as you apply a little more air. You can also use a rubber mallet on the outermost knobs to help slide it into place as well. Just not as effective as the tire tool.
It takes me a while to change tires but I have a lot of bikes and don't want to keep paying the shop. I haven't got a tire changing tool but I bought the best tire irons I could get. Unfortunately practice makes it easier and its just not fun to change tires.
I've also used heat on the tire, just open the oven door and stand the tire on it (best done when Mrs. isn't home).
Bob

Posted by: robwbright---------------------

Thanks for all the help guys.

I finished the last 8 inches by myself this morning. I guess I'm stupid (or at least was ignorant).

Last night I had started by the rim lock and could not make the tire go on the rim on the other side - even with dad and my brother's help.

This morning I pulled that side completely off and started opposite the rim lock. When I got 2/3 around, I stood on the side I started on. I managed to get the whole tire on by myself in about 7 minutes.

IT HOLDS AIR!!

Geez - I spent 4 hours Friday night, 2 1/2 hours last night and then 20 minutes total this morning to change 2 tires.

I think I'll manage it in an hour from now on.

Posted by: bclapham---------------------

wow, i can go from wheel on the bike, take it off, change the tire and back on the bike in less than 20 mins. i only use 1X 10in iron and a bead buddy. WD40 is what i use to help seat the tire.

MG showed me a couple of tricks, plus pitting next to the Dunlop guy in SoCal every week you soon realize how easy chaning can be. The ITs are stiff, but not impossible....but IMO they are crap tires for MX racing...i couldnt wait for my last one to wear out, LOL...but it didnt.

try the Dunlop 952.

Posted by: Chili---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by bclapham

try the Dunlop 952.

I agree the Dunlop is a sweet tire, and the bonus is you'll get very good at changing tires because you'll need a new one every other race day

Posted by: bclapham---------------------

LOL- the 952 wasnt bad for wear IMO.

funny thing is, ive now stopped racing but ive kept buying tires like i used to. i will only practise on old tires and race on new ones, now ive got 4 brand new sets of tires in the garage.

Posted by: RM_guy---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Papakeith

I've said it before, and I'll say it again. The key is getting the oposite side of the bead in the drop center of the rim. Stiff sidewall be damned.

Ahhh...your not going to say it again...too late, you said it

I dare you to say it again

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Maxxis Tire changing issues

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