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Need More Power!!!!!
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Posted by: gymrat86---------------------

Hey guys i have a 2003 KDX 200. I really need more low end power. In order to get out of a rut I have to shift all the way down to 1st and sometimes I over rev it due to gears being to short. anyway what mods can i do to get the best and most power out of my machine. I still have stock exhaust and silencer. Please recommend what type of pipe I need to get along with silencer. thanks for your time.

Posted by: StuckinJersey---------------------

You need to change your gearing. Go up a couple teeth on the rear, it should make a huge difference on how usable second gear is. Good luck!

Posted by: gymrat86---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by StuckinJersey

You need to change your gearing. Go up a couple teeth on the rear, it should make a huge difference on how usable second gear is. Good luck!

What do you mean i need to change the gearing? How do I do that. How many teeth do you recommend to give me the most power? thanks man

Posted by: Rhodester---------------------

Get the FMF -35 (woods) pipe, V-Force 3 reed block set up, and then properly jet the carb. I'm running 13/48 gearing (13/47 is stock), but I'm also slightly over sized on my rear tire. A gearing change will not improve your bottom end, just get you into the midrange and top end easier/faster. The pipe and jetting will blow you away....you won't believe the difference. That's what will improve your bottom end.

Posted by: gymrat86---------------------

How much is it goin to cost me to get new gears in my bike? I am going to purchase the FMF Gnarly woods pipe pretty soon but how much is the Vforce 3 reed block gonna cost me? What size front and rear spockets do you guys suggest? How many teeth. Do i need to invest in an fmf silencer also? if so which one do you suggest? thanks again for your time

Posted by: white knuckes---------------------

Just go with the FMF Gnarly, Turbine core II silencer, jetting, UNI filter(with no airbox lid), and if you really need it just drop a tooth on your primary sprocket. That will get you over anything, and wheelie in 3rd gear.

I might of just misunderstood, but it seems like you are asking how to change the gears inside the motor. You don't have to do that just the smaller gear in front that directly drives the chain, 10 min change tops.
I run a 12 tooth primary instead of the 13 that is stock. That will improve torque and acceleration but your top end speed will decrease.

good luck

Posted by: Ryan12833---------------------

if you want more torquw spend $20 on a 12 tooth front sprocket.

Posted by: gymrat86---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by white knuckes

Just go with the FMF Gnarly, Turbine core II silencer, jetting, UNI filter(with no airbox lid), and if you really need it just drop a tooth on your primary sprocket. That will get you over anything, and wheelie in 3rd gear.

I might of just misunderstood, but it seems like you are asking how to change the gears inside the motor. You don't have to do that just the smaller gear in front that directly drives the chain, 10 min change tops.
I run a 12 tooth primary instead of the 13 that is stock. That will improve torque and acceleration but your top end speed will decrease.

good luck

For the rear sproket do I need to get more teeth or less teeth. My main reason is that i want to be able to wheelie easily and right now i have to yank the handle bars to do so.

Posted by: rubbersidedown---------------------

I tried a 48t on the rear sprocket and a 100/100 rear tire on my 220. It made a huge difference but felt too 4-stroke like for my taste (too tame). I went back to the stock 47tooth. That combo may work well for what you're looking for on your 200.

Posted by: gymrat86---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by rubbersidedown

I tried a 48t on the rear sprocket and a 100/100 rear tire on my 220. It made a huge difference but felt too 4-stroke like for my taste (too tame). I went back to the stock 47tooth. That combo may work well for what you're looking for on your 200.

What do you mean that it felt to 4 stroke. Did it not have a lot of power. I trail ride so I need a lot of power in the bottom

Posted by: Roland C---------------------

Get the FMF pipe and run the stock spark arrestor - that will save you some coin so you can buy the VForce Delta III reed cage. The reed cage is going to run in the $120 to $140 range or so. An aftermarket silencer/spark arrestor is not going to gain you nearly as much as the aftermarket pipe. Go with the FMF Gnarly Woods pipe (-35) for bottom end grunt. Also, just drop the front sprocket to a 12 tooth and leave the rear stock. If you go up more than a tooth on the rear you'll probably have to get a new chain because the stock one will be too short. It is a lot cheaper to just replace the front sprocket and stick with the stock chain. Since you keep asking how much this is going to cost you I'm assuming you want the best bang for your buck. You will also want to make sure your jetting is correct because that will make a big difference as well. If you don't know how to jet your bike do a search. There is a wealth of information on this site already if you're willing to use the search feature. If you haven't checked out Canadian Dave's JustKDX site (and you need to), you can find it here: http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/

Posted by: rubbersidedown---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by gymrat86

What do you mean that it felt to 4 stroke. Did it not have a lot of power. I trail ride so I need a lot of power in the bottom

No, my 220 has a nice combination of bottom end pulling power and quick response when you need that sharp hit to lift the front end in a hurry for example. I felt like I lost that low end hit when I changed tire and rear sprocket. I'd rather have quick responsive power down low than top speed for the riding we do.

I make myself nuts with how my bike runs though, I'm super anal about the engine running right where I want it.
I rode Sunday and hated how the bike was responding, at quarter throttle 1-3 gear felt mushy and it bugged me most of the ride. We were out for a short one, so going back to the truck and tinkering wasn't an option.

Posted by: gymrat86---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roland C

Get the FMF pipe and run the stock spark arrestor - that will save you some coin so you can buy the VForce Delta III reed cage. The reed cage is going to run in the $120 to $140 range or so. An aftermarket silencer/spark arrestor is not going to gain you nearly as much as the aftermarket pipe. Go with the FMF Gnarly Woods pipe (-35) for bottom end grunt. Also, just drop the front sprocket to a 12 tooth and leave the rear stock. If you go up more than a tooth on the rear you'll probably have to get a new chain because the stock one will be too short. It is a lot cheaper to just replace the front sprocket and stick with the stock chain. Since you keep asking how much this is going to cost you I'm assuming you want the best bang for your buck. You will also want to make sure your jetting is correct because that will make a big difference as well. If you don't know how to jet your bike do a search. There is a wealth of information on this site already if you're willing to use the search feature. If you haven't checked out Canadian Dave's JustKDX site (and you need to), you can find it here: http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/

what jetting do you have on your bike right now? How far is you air screw and idle screw turned out? What is a good jetting for an 03 kdx 200

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Need More Power!!!!!

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