DirtRider . Net MX, SX, Arena Cross, Off-Road Community

This is the text version of DirtRider.Net
Click Here for the Full Version

Pages: 1

New guy from CT - looking for guidance!
(Click here to view the original thread with full colors/images)

Posted by: CousinLarry---------------------

Hello guys! Just stumbled on this site looking for a little info. I'm mostly looking for opinions on a bike..

I'm 27, 6'1, about 180lbs.. My ONLY motorbike experience was my two-speed automatic moped when I was 14 :D

I have been wanting a dirtbike ever since I can remember.. I recently bought a house near some BIG woods that a lot of people ride dirtbikes/quads in, and I just feel that now is the right time.

A friend of mine is selling an 89 or 90 Honda CR250.. It's a beautiful bike, and is well maintained. Starts on the first kick and has plenty of power. He will give it to me for $800. I really don't want to spend more than $1000 since it'll be my first bike, and I'm sure I'm going to kill it pretty good..

Now to the Q's:

* Is this a good bike to start on? Or should I get a 125?

* Are parts from that year/model easy to come by?

* What can I expect to spend on decent riding gear (helmet, boots, gloves, etc)?

* How often do the engines need rebuilds?
I do a lot of work on my car (91 talon tsi) so I am pretty mechanically inclined - I've just never worked on a bike. I'd imagine it's easy..

That's about all I can think of now.. Any help/guidance/tips/suggestions/leads - whatever - will be GREATLY appreciated!!!

Thanks a lot guys - can't wait to start riding :D

Posted by: Tony Eeds---------------------

Welcome to the site, Larry.

I'm going to move this so you get better views.

Check out the Damn Yankee Dirt Riders forum for some folks in your area.

Posted by: snb73---------------------

Cousin Larry,

I was away from riding for ten years, but have experience with 250 2 stroke MX bikes. In 2001 I bought a 1993 RM250 for $750. It ran, but was very neglected.

Thats a good bike, a bit old, but not a bad price if clean and in great mechanical shape. Be carefull, that's alot of bike. Take your time and let your brain control your throttle hand, you will be fine.

As for gear, check the closeouts. Helmet; look for DOT and SNELL certified, a removable liner, cheek pads and venting are important features. Boots; Look for a heat sheild (leather) on inner thigh and aluminum/replacable buckles. Plastic ones don't last. Don't foget goggles, gloves, and a chest protector. Jersey and pants are nice too.

Here is an example of a closeout helmet:

http://www.motosport.com/offroad/pr...p?prodId=286143

http://www.motosport.com/offroad/pr...p?prodId=688535

Closeout Boots:

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produ...questid=1360086

My favorite online sites are:

http://www.motosport.com/offroad/index.php

http://www.rockymountainatv.com/

http://www.denniskirk.com

http://www.bobscycle.com/

For OEM Parts:

http://www.servicehonda.com/

http://www.bikebandit.com

Goodluck, Steve.

Posted by: KX250Dad---------------------

Good for you... gotta KX250 when I returned to mx at 47 (30 year lay off), and felt the 250 appropriate my size and what I thought was skill. I was right on the size thing as my summer weight is 220#... totally wrong on the skill thing. Take the time to learn, the bike technology is simple that will be no problem. I might suggest looking into a flywheel weight to tame the thing somewhat while your learn control. To avoid falling off the back when you unintentionally snap the throttle double up on the carb spring... it my save you. I'm 50+ now and have a son who turned out to be my best friend simply due to riding and sharing the stories. You'll have a blast...

Posted by: fastwes---------------------

Hi Larry,
I'm in CT. also, Windsor. Someday we'll have to go trail riding. I've only gotten out once in the last year with my kids, but hope to more often.
Steve is right in his reccomendations, except for the bike. I rode/raced lots as a kid, didn't ride for years, and then got back into trail riding at 40. Don't get the CR250, yet. Try a 125/150/200 four stroke first. A used DR, TTR, XR or similar type of mild bike would make your dirtbike learnig much more fun and safe. No matter how coordinated you are, a 250 2 stroke has just too much power and can get you in trouble in the woods easily. I started back with an XR220/ CR chassis, then a CR144, next a CR270 and have a lowered 01 YZF 250 now also. Don't worry about going fast, jumping or looking good, just have some fun with the freedom the bike will give you!
Wes Gilbert

Posted by: snb73---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastwes

Steve is right in his reccomendations, except for the bike...... No matter how coordinated you are, a 250 2 stroke has just too much power and can get you in trouble in the woods easily.

Quote:

Originally Posted by snb73

..... Be carefull, that's alot of bike.

Self explanatory.

Posted by: CousinLarry---------------------

Thanks for all the replies and links so far guys.. Good info. .

So, the general consensus is I should stay away from a 250-two stroke as a first bike?!

I was originally aiming for a 125 - but this 250 is just a great deal and I don't want to pass it up unless you guys REALLY think it's a bad idea for a first bike.

I have self control - I drive a pretty quick car and have enough control to not go blasting around full throttle everywhere I go.. Can't I just stay off the throttle till I get used to the bike? Or are they pretty much not like that - again - I'm a noob and never rode a dirtbike or motorcycle so I'm not sure what to expect as far as power goes..

Thanks again guys

Posted by: 02yz426f---------------------

I would buy it. Most people aren't responsible enough to ride a 250 2 stroke mildly when they are first starting out. I know people who have bought 450's and wrecked pretty bad because they thought they had to go all out their first time. Ride the bike slowly and get to know it before you want to do anything dumb. A 250 doesnt sound like much, but it probably has 40 horsepower and weighs 200. So thats 5 pounds per horsepower. Most cars are 3000 pounds and 150 horsepower, 20 pounds per horsepower. So the bike has 4 times more power per pound than a car. Be careful and respect the power.

Posted by: CousinLarry---------------------

Ok, new thought.. Another local guy has a 1995 KX250 for sale.. Says he did an overhail last year, runs well, just doesn't ride it anymore because he has a couple other bikes.. Said he'd take $1000 for it..

So, $200 more for a newer bike. Should I go with that one? I don't know which make/models are better...

And 02yz426f - that's what I was thinking.. I just need to respect it and treat it well..

Posted by: snb73---------------------

Larry,

I would suggest buying the newest bike (in good mechanical condition) your budget will allow. Most makes are very close in performance, just pick your favorite color.

As for the bike being too much for you. If you have self control, you will be fine.

My 12 year old son rode my 1993 RM250. It was the end of the day and no one was on the track. I had to hold the bike and run next to him until he got going a bit. His feet were barely on the pegs. You couldn't tell if he was standing or sitting. He showed self control, also throtle control. I wish I had a video of that.

Good luck, Steve.

Posted by: 02yz426f---------------------

Buy the newer bike. You will see less problems and will be able to find parts easier. Good luck

Posted by: bsmith---------------------

As long as you have self control and understand how clutches work you should be in good shape

What you could do to make it more smooth is add a flywheel weight on the bike, this should calm it down a bit more. But I'm a 4 stroke guy so maybe should retain from providing to much more ignorant ideas

Posted by: CousinLarry---------------------

Yes - I have pretty good self control.. I've been into fast cars since I was very young. I drove 400hp cars before I got my license.. I know how to respect power, and I definitely understand clutches (though I've never used my hand to control one!!).. I think I should be OK.

Just talked to the KX250 guy - I'm heading there in 20 mins to go look at it with a friend who rides.. If it looks good - tonight I will be a proud new KX250 owner!!

Thanks for all the help guys - I'm sure I'll have a boatload of Q's once I get the bike home!

Posted by: CousinLarry---------------------

The bike was decent - but it definitely needed rear wheel bearings.. The whole wheel would kinda pivot on it's axis about 1-2mm...

Also, the front caliper was really loose.. I'm pretty sure they're supposed to move a bit, but this one had about 5mm of play in it.. The rear caliper moved a tad, but barely 1mm if that.. The front rotor was also very loose.. Also - the clutch was very tight. Dude said it had tighter springs. Not sure I want that on my first bike!

Came with a lot of parts - lots of plastic, another pipe, handlebars, silencer, etc. Dude said he didn't realize the bearings were bad so he'd take $900 for it.. I decided to keep looking and not jump on the first one - though, it's still an option since it seemed fairly solid.

Still lookin! If anyone here is near CT and they know of a decent 250 in my price range (~1,200 or so) drop me a line!

Thanks

Posted by: fastwes---------------------

Self control has nothing to do with it! You have not learned to ride yet ! Clutch and throttle use on a bike has nothing to do with your maturity. Every single person who ever learned to ride has to get used to the body/arm throttle relationship and clutch engagement. Larry, DON'T start with a 250 2-stroke! Borrow a milder or smaller bike to learn on first. Hell, I'll loan you one of my XR220's. If it isn't miserable weather between Christmas and New Years, you can come with me to learn. An hour in a field and on some simple trails would give you an idea of what bike you may want. DON'T buy ANYTHING yet!
Wes Gilbert
Boyesen Precision Porting
860-683-4410

Posted by: csmutty---------------------

My cousin is trying to sell his 2001 CR250 if you are interested. He is located in CT also. I have rode the bike and it rode like a dream. You would just have to respect the throttle. I think he wants something like 1500 for it if you happen to be interested. It is a great reliable bike and I think you would be able to do well on it.

Posted by: KDX607---------------------

where is the cr located, smutty?

Posted by: csmutty---------------------

It is located in Pomfret, CT which is in the northeast corner of CT. I can get pics if you want some.

Posted by: 02yz426f---------------------

As long as you dont go crazy, you should be able to handle any dirt bike. At 15-20 mph whats the difference between a 250 2 stroke and a 250f...

Posted by: CousinLarry---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by csmutty

My cousin is trying to sell his 2001 CR250 if you are interested. He is located in CT also. I have rode the bike and it rode like a dream. You would just have to respect the throttle. I think he wants something like 1500 for it if you happen to be interested. It is a great reliable bike and I think you would be able to do well on it.

Shoot me an email dood - jeff AT cousinlarry DAWT com.

thanks man!

Posted by: fishwater---------------------

Honestly I got back on the dirt with a 250 2 stroke after a few years off & it was tough in the tight woods of New England. You need to add a flywheel weight to the bike to help calm the hit down. I now have a YZ426 4 stroke & the hit is easier to manage in the woods but it still requires some work as well as a flywheel weight. Honestly to do it over again I would either buy a KTM, KDX or XR for the terrain up here. All of these bikes are alot easier to manage in the woods. I know it's hard to not get seduced by all the sexy MX bikes but they all require some money & work to get dialed in for tight technical singletrack. If I was to stay with an MX bike it would either be a YZ250 or 250f. The only problem with the XR's is the weight & suspension.

BTW, I am 6'1" 260lbs & 36 years old, I am not getting any younger or thinner! Any bike I ride needs suspension work.

Posted by: blackduc98---------------------

Fastwes is trying to tell you something. He offered to save your neck by letting you try one of his XR220's, which, btw, is a fine bike for new england woods. I suggest you LISTEN to him, and take him up on his offer.

Cars & bikes are night and day. Even street bikes and dirt bikes are night and day. 2-stroke MX bikes like KX/CR/YZ/RM are too much for a first bike. Even Jeremy McGrath and Ricky Carmichael didn't start out on a CR250, just as Michael Schumacher didn't start out in an F1 Ferrari, so be honest with your self-assessment. Just because you have respect for power on the conscious level, doesn't mean that you will be able to handle it when it hits unexpectedly (and it will) because your right wrist lacks the necessary muscle memory gained only thru experience. Get something more forgiving, and you will be much happier and healthier. When your skill level outgrows your bike (not likely to happen soon) then you can buy a new bike. A mid-90's era XR200/220 can be bought for around $1500, and if you maintain it well, you won't lose any money when you sell it in a couple of years. But chances are, you'll want to hold on to it anyway, because you will discover that one bike can't excel at everything, so you might decide to add a balls-out MXer (CR250 for example) to your trail-friendly XR220.

BTW, I have a friend who was a club-level jr. enduro champion in his younger days. He returned to enduro racing not long ago. He has the skill to handle any bike, but his weapon of choice is a WR250F, and he competes quite well with it - well ahead of most guys on 2-stroke KTMs. He says a high-strung 250 2-stroke simply wears him out too quickly in new england woods.

As far as wheel bearings go - those are consumable items on a dirt bike, typical replacement period is every 2 years. Fortunately, they are cheap for modern japanese bikes at about $20 per axle. Look at rockymountainmc.com and ronayers.com to get an idea of what different parts cost. Since you're handy with tools, you'll have no trouble doing most of the work yourself. Oh yeah, the front brake rotor is supposed to "float", and calipers have some natural movement too.

Text Version Home

This is the text version of DirtRider.Net Click Here for the Full Version

New guy from CT - looking for guidance!

This is the text version of DirtRider.Net
Click Here for the Full Version