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Tips for Mounting Airbox Boot back onto carb.
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Posted by: TheGDog---------------------
Ugh...
I tried to re-connect the dang airboot coming from the airbox back onto the throat of the carb... I wasn't making headway... what's the trick for this install?
Seems like it needed a shoe-horn or some such device to help with sliding the airboot back onto the carb.
What tips and trick do you have for this?
Posted by: duke---------------------
Really? Mine has always been pliable enough so that it can be pulled back to allow the throat of the carb to seat properly. If its too stiff, try a hand held hair dryer on low. That should make for the plastic to become easier to work with
Posted by: whenfoxforks-ruled---------------------
You need to get an oversized carb! Loosening the lower subframe bolts can help. Completely remove the screw in the clamp. If the boot is cold, warm it up with a blow dryer, Not a torch! Some used to come with pull tabs, it was like pulling on your socks! You need to work the opposite side, and where ever you have hard access first. 2 people can help, if you get aggravated, take a break.
Posted by: Fryspeed---------------------
Warm it up to make more supple.
Posted by: zeerx---------------------
Open the clamp up. You need more room to put it on than to take it off. Cheers.
Posted by: SVandal---------------------
a little armourall (SP?) is what I cleaned mine with and it fit together just fine.
Posted by: jschiller---------------------
KY jelly
Posted by: 76GMC1500---------------------
Loosen the clamp all of the way, slip the back on first (because it's harder to do), use pliers to pull the tab over. Make sure the back and bottom are completely on the carb or you'll just pull them off again as you pull the tab. I usually leave the cylinder side loose and wiggle the carb to get the back on.
Posted by: TheGDog---------------------
Hmm... interesting... there are no "grab-tabs" around the opening of this airboot. It IS quite pliable. I have the clamp ring way way way loose on it. I sprayed some "Protect-All" (similar, yet better than, ArmorAll) on my finger then coated the inside of the opening with to make it more slippery.
You have to stand on the right-hand side of the back so that you can insert one hand into the boot with the same natural curve of your wrist matching the curvy path the boot takes around the rear shock.
Hmph... looks like the only thing I hadn't tried was the hairdryer bit. Does heating it up help that darn much?
Posted by: TheGDog---------------------
Oh... wait a minute.. after closere inspection.. I saw where there USED to be a grab tab. ....Sigh
Posted by: ridejunky---------------------
Use a hooked awl.
Posted by: whenfoxforks-ruled---------------------
I would not recommend pliers or anything sharp. That is what happened to the pull tabs. I thought them make it shiny products changes the properties of rubber, makes them stiff! A thin screwdriver can help, using it like a shoe horn.
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