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FMF Woods and Desert pipe, differences in looks. Lookng to buy a used Desert.

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Posted by: vick---------------------

I am the new owner of a completely stock 2001 KDX220.

I am looking at a used pipe. It is an FMF Gold Series but I do not know how to tell if it is Desert or Woods. Thanks for any help. Thanks for any info.


I am looking for a used Desert. Not really concerned about looks as long as it works as designed.... I have an extra brand new factory pipe and silencer that came with the bike, if anyone is interested


Posted by: Joburble---------------------

There is a number stamped on the side of the upper mounting bracket.
020056 is the desert pipe
020057 is the woods pipe

There is a 3 digit number before those numbers and then a hyphen, I don't know what those 3 digits are for, but it's the ones listed after that that you are looking for anyway.

http://www.fmfracing.com/Mode/Bike/...AWASAKI_KDX220R


Posted by: reepicheep---------------------

I just sorted all this out... it's a lot more complicated then it sounds.

First, start with the KDX-200. The bigger pipe (diameter about 14" at the widest) is the woods pipe, designed for better power at lower RPM. The narrower pipe (about 11" at the widest) is the desert pipe, for more top end power.

Now, on the KDX-220, they are swapped. So the very same pipe that would have been the desert (peak power at peak RPM) pipe on the 200 is the torque pipe on the KDX-220. And you don't want to run the 200 torque pipe on the 220 at all.

All of this assumes the smaller carb and porting for the stock 220. If it was a 200 but bored and replated (or sleeved) with the bigger 200 carb, then the 200 rules apply.

Make sense?

Bottom line, for a stock 220, the only pipe you want is the smaller diameter FMF expansion chamber.

(warning, all this information is based on internet research, not fact...)


Posted by: Joburble---------------------

Hi reepicheep
So... what you are saying is vick should go only for the #020056 Desert Pipe, correct?

Also based on absolutely no experience but only internet research I have read that the #020057 Woods Pipe kills the 220 power and should not be used on it, correct?


Posted by: glad2ride---------------------

K-30 vs. K-35. It is stamped on hanger.


Posted by: reepicheep---------------------

Exactly JoBurble...

On the 200, a woods (-057, about 14" diameter max) pipe will give better power everywhere in the power band, without much extra at peak RPM.

On the 220 (a true 220, not a 200 bored to a 225 or something), the -057 woods pipe is supposed to run pretty badly.

On the 200, the desert (-056, about 11" diameter max) pipe will give slightly better power at lower RPM's, but it is tuned to give the maximum HP at the upper end of the RPM range (which is where you get maximum HP anyway).

On the 220 (again, a true 220, not a bored 200), the -056 desert pipe (about 11" diameter) acts more like a woods pipe, and gives more power everywhere... instead of just more peak power at peak RPM's.

If you have a 200 bored to a 225... the pipes act like they are still on the 200. So a woods pipe on a bored 200 is still a wods pipe, and a desert pipe on a bored 200 is still a desert pipe. Though it probably depends on how your tuner ported everything. I had Eric Gorr do it, and he indicated that the woods pipe was a great choice for the 225 "more better everywhere" port he offers. And that the woods pipe would give even more better power everywhere.

And that seems consistent with what I have read from Jeff Fredette. It also seems consistent with my limited experience. I now have a 200 with the 225 big bore kit and an FMF woods pipe, and it pulls really nicely through the bottom end.

I restored a true 220 for a friend that has a Pro Circuit desert pipe and Boyesen V-Force (or whatever they call their cool machined aluminum reed block with carbon fiber reeds), and it pulls at least as hard at low RPM as my 225 with the woods pipe does. Probably harder, but I still have some break in and tuning to do on my 225, and that 220 came pretty well tuned. The 220 also has a steel sleeve and aftermarket piston in there put in by the previous owner (the stock 220 piston disintegrated on him 3 months after he bought the bike). I didn't measure it to see if it's still a 220, or if it is now something bigger.

Anyway, that's what I have been able to gather... Its better then nothing, but it's so hard to tell real performance numbers without a dyno, that it should all be taken with a grain of salt. A lot of times you do something you think made the bike faster, and all you really did is create a hole in the powerband somewhere so that when you climb out of it suddenly as rev's rise, you think you are making lots of extra power. Or you just feel like it's faster because you spent $300 and because everyone else said it would be faster when you do such and such. Or it's just a cool day or something...


Posted by: samiam---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by reepicheep
...and Boyesen V-Force (or whatever they call their cool machined aluminum reed block with carbon fiber reeds),...


That is a Boyeson RAD valve. I had one in my 1996 KDX 200 and it worked well and enhanced the mid-top power greatly.


Posted by: julien_d---------------------

boyesen rad valve and v-force 2/3 reed cage are not one in the same. The word on the street is that the v-force is a much better match for the KDX than the boyesen rad valve.


Posted by: reepicheep---------------------

Sorry for the tangent... this one was definitely the RAD valve, and a very early one at that. Seems to work well.


Posted by: Joburble---------------------

Why the move???
I don't think vick is pitching for a pipe. He just wants to know how to determine the pipe for his KDX. ???


Posted by: vick---------------------

Thanks for all the info... There is one on e-bay. Thanks to this sight it was determined to be a "Woods Pipe"

Again, thanks.



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