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'01 YZ 426F - Woods, Enduro ? Too much ?
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Posted by: the Eel---------------------

I have the opportunity to get an incredible deal on a brand new 2001 YZ 426F - about $1,200 below list !!!!

I recently took a spin on one and fell completely in love with the powerband. However, I keep hearing that it's too much bike for trail riding or enduros. I do mostly desert style enduros but there's some tight stuff in there from time to time. I feel that the responsive powerband and the 3-stroke like power of the bike would actually be a benefit in gnarly trails, and the bike only weighs a few pounds more than my XR 250.

I'm pretty much a novice rider at 5'11" and 165 lbs.

What are your experiences with this bike in the woods or in enduros ?

I can get a fairly quiet spark arrestor end cap for pretty cheap and would add a flywheel weight and gear it down.

To buy this is a bit of a whim but the price is incredible - I just wonder whether or not I'll wind up like a lot of the other YZ 426F owners who sell the bike shortly after buying it 'cause they felt it was too powerful or couldn't get the hang of starting it.

What does everyone think ?

Posted by: bsdupee---------------------

Great price if it is "new". I have been riding one since March. LOVE IT. I ride both track and woods. I have geared mine down (13T front instead of 14T stock front)....equivalent to 3+ teeth off the back sprocket, and far less expensive. Probably my best mod. I have not added a flywheel, but have found stalling less of a problem as RPM's typically run higher w/ smaller sprocket.

Starting is your main hurdle. Learn this process ASAP. I had problems at first (45 minutes first time at track). Since I studied and experimented and learned....never had a problem, hot or cold starts.

Add bars to your list. The factory Yamaha bars are butter. Renthals solve that problem. You can wreck a da of riding really quick if you bend 'em.... as you know.

Power: Awesome. Are your in the tight Eastern woods? I am in Colorado where the woods exist but are less dense. The bike is great. To me, power=confidence.

Good luck.

brad

Posted by: the Eel---------------------

BSDUPEE - the bike is BRAND NEW !!! The dealer has three he is trying to get off the floor. I ride in Southern California so alot of it is pretty wide open.

The things you had to say are helpful and encouraging.

Posted by: slowmo---------------------

Given your riding conditions, etc. you should go for it.

The suggested modifications make should work well; you mainly need some help to keep the bike from stalling in very tight situations (especially compared to the XR's ability to avoid stalling). You'll love the powerband in your conditions.

Starting. I suggest you go to Dirt Bike's website. I think they still have an article posted that discussed starting methods as discussed by Mike Kiedrowski, Randy Hawkins, Scott Summers and Shane Watts (its from an early 2001 issue). That article really helped me to better understand the starting drill rather than simply memorizing the drill. This helps you troubleshoot when things do not work. I'm on my second YZF and I now never have a starting problem. My previous areas of difficulty -

1. Learning not to start just after oiling the air filter.
2. Both bikes were delivered with slightly lean jetting. In cooler weather, the normal cold start drill would often not work and I would eventually flood the bike. I was extremely frustrated until I read Summers comments in the above-noted article and realized my bike wasn't getting sufficient fuel. Instead of twisting throttle 1-2 times, it required 3-4 times until the jetting was adjusted! Given all the published warnings about twisting the YZF throttle, I never would have tried that solution on my own.

You'll at least have a good head start given your experience with the XR. But you'll need to understand the effects of the pumper carb, hot start button, and manual compression release. The various methods / bikes in the DB article helped me piece it together.

Posted by: xrsforever---------------------

Sound like a great deal for a great bike,but you said you were a novice.This is alot of bike for a novice,so set the suspension up properly and learn slow.

Posted by: SFO---------------------

Your concerns about turning in the tight stuff are warranted.
My Wr was a boat when I first rode it.
This is cureable.
I put a 52 tooth rear sprocket on it with the stock length chain, this allowed me to run the wheel all the way forward.
I also jerked the fork tubes up 10mm, this has made the bike a little nervous, but I like the tight stuff.
These changes have aided tight negotiations considerably.(THANKS MX TUNER!!!)
I also see that Scotts makes some different offset Triple clamps that I am considering in conjunction with a stabilizer.
I would jump on a yz-f for the right #'s.
I paid full pop for my WR and don't regret it or the 2k I have hung on it so far. I would still rather have this bike than any other available four stroke.

Posted by: holeshot---------------------

I only completed 1 mile of the last (first for me) TWMC enduro, so I don't really know what kind of terrain they throw at you, but I'll do my best here.

The YZ426F has a very high first and second gear (optimzed for moto), but you can still tackle most trails with the stock gearing. The only exception may be tight, uphill boulder gardens. Going one tooth down on the countershaft is a big help for the real nasty stuff and should still give a top speed of just over 80 mph.

I've been searching for the WR426 gear ratios so I could do a comparison of the overall gearing (stock WR426 first gear vs YZ426 first gear with one tooth smaller countershaft), but I couldn't find this much detail on the Yamaha website. Anyone have the WR426 gear ratio specs?

Four strokes aren't particularly strong in sand whoops (heavy on the front), but the 426 should blast through them easier than an XR250 (more power, less flex in forks).

As far as starting goes, the 426 is a easy starter in normal situations, but if you stall and tip it over on a tight trail, you'll have to go through the hot start routine. I use the hot start about twice a year.

426's flatten big hills (as long as they're not too technical).

Quite a few two stroke riders got the 426 and traded it right away because they couldn't get the hang of it - others kept it (even though they couldn't ride it at first). After about three months, the ones that hung in there really liked it, have had improved moto results and have come over to the Dark Side. I don't know that many enduro riders, so I can't speak for that part of the sport. I can say that my moto results improved dramatically when I got the 426, but I still suck at anything offroad (including GP's).

Those E-start KTM four strokes look tempting, but the price.......:think

Posted by: the Eel---------------------

Thanks Holeshot -

by the way, Thumpertalk.com has a great YZ 426 forum. I have seen the gear ratios listed in that forum ... you can search it for "ratios" and I know it's in there.

It's a beautiful bike and I am very, very tempted to go down and pick it up. I'm gonna wait for a few more responses and then make the decision.

By the way, you're going to be at Big Bear, right ? Maybe you'd let me take yours for a spin ?

Posted by: bigred455---------------------

Quote:

Originally posted by bsdupee
Great price if it is "new". I have been riding one since March. LOVE IT. I ride both track and woods. I have geared mine down (13T front instead of 14T stock front)....equivalent to 3+ teeth off the back sprocket, and far less expensive. Probably my best mod. I have not added a flywheel, but have found stalling less of a problem as RPM's typically run higher w/ smaller sprocket.

Starting is your main hurdle. Learn this process ASAP. I had problems at first (45 minutes first time at track). Since I studied and experimented and learned....never had a problem, hot or cold starts.

Add bars to your list. The factory Yamaha bars are butter. Renthals solve that problem. You can wreck a da of riding really quick if you bend 'em.... as you know.

Power: Awesome. Are your in the tight Eastern woods? I am in Colorado where the woods exist but are less dense. The bike is great. To me, power=confidence.

Good luck..

If you wen't from a 14 to a 13 counter sprocket it is equal to adding 3 teeth on your rear.

brad

Posted by: skmcbride---------------------

Eel,
I have a '99 YZ400 and ride exclusively woods and race enduros. I have changed the gearing to 13 -50 with 12oz. flywheel weight to make the bike managable in the tight stuff. The bike was very difficult to ride in woods with stock gearing and no weight (lots of clutch fanning). The 426 has even a taller first gear. Changing your gearing will take a significant amount from the top end. I am not so sure about the aforementioned 80 mph. If you like sustained high speed riding I think you will have a problem trying to make the bike work for both tight stuff and desert. With the money your saving you could consider swapping out for WR gearing. It has been done. I am not trying to talk you out of it, I love the bike for enduros but I am on the east-coast with tight woods, rocks and sand and rarely need the top end. BTW, you could still probably find a 2000WR on the floor on the east coast. I know my dealer had one as of a month ago (Pete's cycle Baltimore, MD).
Good Luck, Keith.

Posted by: TheMort---------------------

Eel, sounds like a really good deal on an awesome bike. I just recently picked up a used 98 YZ400 and I love the bike. I'm about the same size as you and used to ride a KDX200 and the YZ400 is such an improvement. The power seems pretty broad and there's tons of it everywhere. The suspension is awesome, although it's a bit harsh in rocky, technical type woods riding with lots of roots. But not too bad and can be adjusted. My only complaint about the bike is how easily it stalls. Last week I took the bike up to place in CT (Thomaston Dam) for the first time and I stalled the bike twice going up a rocky, technical hill. I was going fast enough and the revs weren't too low, but the rear wheel hopped over a rock and stalled when it hit the ground, most likely because I wasn't really going very fast. But still, not the place I wanted to stall the bike going up a rocky hill. A flywheel will cure this though and that's going to be one of my future mods for the bike. Other than the stalling issue the bike's awesome, and I'd definetly reccomend taking that deal.

Posted by: Hick---------------------

Quote:

Originally posted by holeshot
Anyone have the WR426 gear ratio specs?

Gear - YZ – WR
1st – 24/13 – 29/12
2nd – 23/15 – 26/15
3rd – 23/18 – 21/16
4th – 24/22 – 21/20
5th – 20/21 – 21/25

This info is in the manual, this is for ’00, & ’01, before that the YZ ratios were different.

Posted by: the Eel---------------------

Re: I'm not too concerned with losing some top end since I don't do baja or hare scrambles. I'm doing desert enduros and trailriding so I don't really see that I'll need to ever go over 60 even !! Besides, I think the pucker factor of going 80 MPH on a dirt bike might be a bit much for me ...

I'm glad to hear everyone's digging the bikes. I figure I will be saving so much money that the flywheel weight, gearing change, and whatever else are really not as painful as they would be if I had to pay full price for the bike.

Any maintenance problems ? I had heard somewhere that these YZs were going thru top ends pretty rapidly ? Any truth to that ? Also, how's the clutch been holding up ?

OK - so the bike seems pretty great. Alot of the people I ride with keep telling me that the perfect bike for me is the WR 250F. Now I have never ridden the WR, but I magine it will have a powerband that you have to flog quite a bit more than the 426, and the 426 also has a better power to weight ratio. There is something I like about the 400cc range power. It comes on very strong early. I have used it to power around turns flat-track style, which I have trouble doing on my XR.

Do you 426 guys any feedback on this ? I know alot of people who would say I'm making a mistake by not getting the WR 250F or even the YZ 250F. But theres just something I really liked about that 426. I have the possibility to ride all these bikes I mentioned this coming weekend ... maybe that will be helpful.

Posted by: Hick---------------------

The short version is that YZ first gear is only like 4% lower than second gear on the WR.

The WR gearbox would be nice on tight, steep stuff. I just spent a few days in some fairly tight woods on my YZ (Rampart Range, CO). I ran a 51 tooth rear and was happy, but I'm sure that tractor gearing would have spared my brakes and clutch a lot of use (and some abuse, brake pads are toast).

Posted by: Hick---------------------

I have not ridden a 250F, but I’m on my second 426, the clutch problems should be over in the ’01 model, I never heard of any clutches breaking on the ’00, but they didn’t work very well, and my stock basket rubbed the cases slightly.

I’ve never had any engine trouble with either, although the tranny flew apart on my ’00.

For that price, you can buy the two-six, ride it, and easily sell it (esp. in CA) if you don’t like it at for close to what you paid.

Posted by: holeshot---------------------

Hick:

Thanks for posting the WR ratios. According to what I've worked out, I'd have to run 59/13 sprockets to come close to what the WR first gear ratio is, and that's assuming the WR comes stock with 49/14 sprockets and if it's even possible to put a 59 tooth rear sprocket on without modifying the chain guide. This would also bring the top speed down to around 67 mph. Of course, I'm doing this late at night - maybe someone could check out my numbers? :confused:

Eel:

I hope to make it to Big Bear, but I'm not sure yet. If I do, I'll just put on a 13 tooth and you can judge for yourself.

Posted by: JasonJ---------------------

You may be ok since your on the west coast, but riding the big YZ in tight east woods is like putting a kick me sign on your number plate. If you take the YZ into rocky, tight, or slipery stuff, you will have to ride it fast because of the gearing. This could really be un-nerving. I played with the counter sprocket on my 99 WR 400 and found the 14 was to fast for really tight slipery woods. 12 T made 1 st gear worthless, 13 put it right on the money. The WR 400 or 426 sounds like the ideal bike for the West coast trail work. The problem with gearing the YZ down is it all ready has so much low end bark, it may be hard to manage with more advantage on the rear wheel. I know alot of WR 250 guys go to YZ timing, but are coming back to the WR timing after the gray wire mod, because they are spinning the back wheel to much in the trails. I have never herd of anyone putting the WR timing on the YZ, but see no reason it cant be done. If the YZ is a VERY good deal, get it, try to tame it. If it dose not work out, sell it for the same price you payed as was said above or work a trade for a WR.
Good luck!!

Posted by: mxbundy---------------------

Quote:

I imagine that you will have to flog it

Absolutly not true. Eel you meet me at the qualifier up at Gorman. You know, the big 6'4" guy on the 250F. Well let me tell you that yes when you rev it out you are rewarded with big power (for a 250 4 strk.) but it also has good bottom end and midrange, there is no weak point at all. Now I dont know how much bottom power your XR has but ive heard that the YZ doesnt quite match it, but it has enough for me and I weigh 260#. I was neck and neck for first in my class at the qualifier until I got the flat. It just so happens that the guy that won my class ( B 4strk. ) was on my minute and he was ridding a XR 650. I never felt at a disadvantage to him in the more open sections and could walk away from him in the tight stuff.

But the 426 is a nice bike also and for that price I would say go for it. I have a 99 400F also and for tight woods riding like at Gorman I would diffinetly recomend the gearing change and fly wheel, it makes switch backs with abrubt hill climbs right out off the turns much easier. I have never had a clutch problem with the 400, but the 250 seems to chatter alot. You would probably want the suspension set up for you on either bike, as they are not that plush off road stock. You just cant imagine what good suspension will do for you, its incredible how plush they can get the action and it still have better bottoming control than stock.

se you this weekend
mxbundy

Posted by: Hick---------------------

Quote:

Originally posted by holeshot
Hick:

Thanks for posting the WR ratios. According to what I've worked out, I'd have to run 59/13 sprockets to come close to what the WR first gear ratio is, and that's assuming the WR comes stock with 49/14 sprockets and if it's even possible to put a 59 tooth rear sprocket on without modifying the chain guide. This would also bring the top speed down to around 67 mph. Of course, I'm doing this late at night - maybe someone could check out my numbers? :confused:

Your calculation is accurate as far as I can tell. I can also tell you that letting out the clutch in first gear on a WR reminds me of driving a tractor, all the WR needs is a three point hitch to hook the plow up to.

But that kind of gearing is ridiculous in sand.

If you are serious about this I would think you could split the cases and change whatever gears you wanted to WR parts, but I have never tried or confirmed this.

Posted by: LocoCD---------------------

Red Sticker, just understand the implications.

Posted by: scar tissue---------------------

hey Eel

Good luck with the new bike. Let me know if your going to trade in or sell your xr250 I might be interested and or know someone whose interested.

Posted by: the Eel---------------------

Scar - thanx for the interest in the XR - since it's green I'm gonna keep it for the times I wouldn't be able to ride a red sticker bike ... by the way, I'm still up in the air about the big 'ol 4-2-6 ...

Posted by: kc-husky---------------------

Hey the Eel, whats the dealers name and were are they. I'm in the mid west and I have been looking for that kind of deal. At that price I could have it shipped and still save.

Posted by: gulliver---------------------

Eel:

I recently bought my first bike, a KTM 640 LC4. It's about the same size as the YZ, but much heavier.
I found that the power was pretty easy to get used to, just watch that you don't rev too high when the
clutch is in until you can control the power. As far as tight woods, the size of the bike makes it difficult.
Practice sliding your but off the seat so that you can put a quick and solid foot down if you have to.
It seems like the suspension sunk a little as I broke it in, which allows me to at least touch my heels down.
Currently, I'm staying away from tight situations until I'm a better rider. If you pick your trails carefully,
You should have no problems starting out. When racing, I guess you don't have a choice.

I'd have to say, if I had to sell it to get an off road only bike, I would get something small and nimble.
The size of the bike is great on the road, but off road I feel I'm limited by the lack of ability to man-handle
the bike. A small light bike may be more fun for you if you like catching air and hitting the woods.

Just my .02

Posted by: TexXR---------------------

When you look at the number of views on this thread (almost 700!) it's apparent that a lot of people have a keen interest in how the YZ426 performs in the woods and on the trail. I've been doing battle against these bikes in enduros for the past year and a half. My observation is in 80% of the conditions you just can't touch them. Their combination of weight vs. power is a tremendous advantage, especially if you are 6'+ and over 200 lbs. Granted, I have seen many a 400 or 426 on the side of the trail being frantically flogged in an effort to restart but I also see them winning a majority of my class races (Open, 4 stk). Their contingency program is something to think about also if you race. They even pay C class money. Every penny helps.

I decided about two months ago that "if you can't beat them, join them". My '02 YZ 426 is supposed to be here in late September.

Posted by: azcourt---------------------

I am a c rider in the AZ desert. I have ridden a 98YZ400 for a couple of years. It was fantastic (till it blew up again). For the slow tight stuff just gear it down, and soften up the clickers and life was good.
I do not think you can have too much power in the west (thats why I opted for a KTM 520 now).
The YZ can be tuned for very good low and mid power delivery. My 400 had a 13.5 to 1 420 kit, and a big gun pipe. This gave it great low and mid power, but it would kind of go flat on top, way at the top. The good low and mid power made trail riding easy. I have ridden smaller bikes and many 2 strokes, and find the big 4 strokes much easier to ride. The powerband is everywhere, so concentrating on keeping the revs in the power is not a concern.
As for starting, it can be a pain. On the trail, or at the truck is always easy. When the adrenaline is running, and the race clock is ticking, I usually forget the drill and kill myself trying to start the thing. 5 min of kicking takes as much out of me as 30 min of racing. Learn the drill, stay calm and youll love the bike.

Posted by: wayneo426---------------------

Great advice from azcourt. Be patient, you'll never have a problem starting the beast. It gets a bit unnerving when you have to start it quick, and that usually costs you a few places in the pack, but stay calm, fire it up, and hang on. You wont be in back for long.

Enjoy!

Posted by: Nverfastenuf---------------------

This might get me blasted, but here goes. If you are an aggressive rider, the YZ426 will be a great bike. If you don't ride on the gas alot, you will be penalized on the YZ426. If you install a weighted flywheel and gear it down you will probably be compensated by a somewhat useable power(mellower). For wide open, on the throttle, jammin, the 426YZ is a blast. If you are going to trail ride the bike very much, you will then want to civilize the bike and I think it will then be much more applicable to your style. The YZ426 can, in the right hands be a very proficient trail bike. On the flip side, in the hands of a less talented rider, the bike will be a handful, and make a potentially fun day of riding a real pain. I think a person has to be honest with ones self, and carefully analize his riding ability, then make the appropriate(if that is possible) decision. I am not saying you can not ride the YZ and do well on it. There are many opinions in this thread that give very good advice. You should be more confused now than ever. :think If you get the bike, there are things that can be done to make it fit you, and at the right price that is all that matters. Have fun and good luck.

Posted by: sfc crash---------------------

it's pretty much all been said, but i ride tight ravine woods,plus the other stuf,trails,corn fields and put around my back yard. i've uncorked the exhaust cleared the airbox,cut the grey wire. this bike is the most predictable bike i've riden, the power makes up for the lack of my riding ability and corrects alot of my mistakes. i don't mind fighting it in tight stuf, i'm 5'8" and 190lbs, benched 405 last christmass on a bulk up cycle, but i've found that a little gas'll break the rear end and get around tight stuf. do it! biggers better

Posted by: Nverfastenuf---------------------

DEA, flywheel, gearing,exhaust, etc.

Posted by: the Eel---------------------

Thanks to everyone for all the great input ... after all this feedback and after riding some more bikes I've decided to go 2-stroke. Since the only racing I intend to do is enduro, it justs seems to make sense to me that potentially difficult starting and weight issues just don't sound too fun when I'm struggling to make the next check.

I only weigh 160 lbs. and am not particularly strong. I have a feeling the 426 would eat me alive.

I got to ride both a KTM 200 M/XC and Gas Gas EC/XC 300 recently. These bikes were so easy to start (since I'm not used to having to use the clutch on my XR, I was stalling going into turns quite a bit - however, I could bump start without even stopping - sheer momentum was enough to fire them right back up). Also, the light weight and handling were very confidence inspiring. I think for my size and strength these bikes would be more appropriate than the 426. I was much faster on them than on my XR (and the GasGas was even setup for a 220 lb. rider - boy was I sore after that ride !)

So, I hate to spoil the Thumper milk, but now I gotta figure out whether I'm gonna buy a '97 or '98 big four Japanese 250 2-stroke (to get the green sticker), or get a newer "Eur-endur-o" 2-stroke (complicated by the decision between 200, 250 or 300) and just SCREW THE STICKER ISSUE !!!!!

Back to square one ... a little further down the path.

Posted by: sfc crash---------------------

don't sweat it dude, it's all about riding and having fun. the first guy that says otherwise......well momma didn't breast feed 'him:confused:

Posted by: placelast---------------------

[QUOTE]Originally posted by the Eel
[B]I only weigh 160 lbs. and am not particularly strong.

:think Don't let his line fool ya, guys: he gets wows from motogals; seems to attract attention wherever he goes...:D

[QUOTE][i] gotta figure out whether I'm gonna buy a '97 or '98 big four Japanese 250 2-stroke (to get the green sticker), or get a newer "Eur-endur-o" 2-stroke (complicated by the decision between 200, 250 or 300) and just SCREW THE STICKER ISSUE !!!!! Back to square one ... a little further down the path.

You shouldn't have a problem finding an MX-something in SoCa; look for one w/lo hours on it.

Green/red? You'll fare well either way, tho the VIN #'s your clue, *not* what type o' sticker the seller has @ the moment.

200 vs 250 vs 300? GG, I take it...now that's a hard one to answer...

BTW, U didn't tell us - other than being able to go faster on them - how ya liked the fit, power, bal bla bla, on the m/xc & GG.

On another note, a willing soul such as yours is needed to break in my 250's new top end come late September's Jawbone Classic; I'll be busy manning the family video camcorder. Game?

Posted by: scar tissue---------------------

Quote:

Originally posted by the Eel

I gotta figure out whether I'm gonna buy a '97 or '98 big four Japanese 250 2-stroke (to get the green sticker), or get a newer "Eur-endur-o" 2-stroke (complicated by the decision between 200, 250 or 300) and just SCREW THE STICKER ISSUE !!!!!

Back to square one ... a little further down the path.

I here you loud and clear! If you go 2 stroke the ktm 300 is hard to beat for an all around bike, it's got my vote. Of course I'm used to a XR600 So the power is close.

As for not going with a 4 stroke, before you write them off all together as they are getting faster and lighter, have you ridden the ktm 400, or 520, light as a 2 stroke yet love that 4 stroke power.

As for me I just picked up a KLX340 (cust. engine est. @ 42 hp) to get a light wieght 4 stroke, with some power, on a budget. even if you got a stock 300 and did just a couple of mods it'd be good. Perimeter MX frame and all. I just didn't want to be left out of the semi street legal only rides. good luck

Posted by: the Eel---------------------

There goes last PlaceLast again talking about these imaginary motogals who dig me so much ... when you see 'em let me know - I could use some attention along those lines !!

Anyway, both the GG 300 and KTM M/XC were great bikes (here we go ... off topic)

It's hard to compare because one was setup for a 220 pounder, and said 220 pounder is also a Jawbone regular, so obviously said bike has been put through its paces. On the other hand the KTM was spotless. Hence, it's not really not significant, fair, or important to compare them in this area. The GG hit less and was definitely more luggable - it handled great but did not feel as sharp as the KTM - maybe because of the different frame sizes. The KTM had a bit of a hit and obviously felt better suspended solely based on my weight. I'd say the KTM would be better for a smaller rider, or for someone who really needs to feel the visceral thrill of a small framed explosive bike. On the other hand, while the GG is by no means heavy, a bigger rider might be better able to manhandle it since the frame is larger than the ktm. The GG is also probably better suited to more open riding and for hill climbing. Both were great in the woods (I got to ride them on some awesome woods trails at Kennedy Meadows).

I'd say you could buy either in a heartbeat and totally fall in love. I have heard that the GG is less xpensive to maintain. I was also told that 2000 was a watershed year for GasGas and that the 2000 and up models are superior to the pre-2000's in several significant ways. From what I've seen on the net, the GasGas list is about $500 to $600 higher (when comparing 200's).

The dealer who was selling the 426's at such a low price is Yamaha of North Hollywood.

I think what I'm gonna do is get a '97 or '98 KX 250, get Eric Gorr to port it, slap on an IMS 4.7 gallon tank, and add a flywheel weight.

I am selling the XR 250 so if anyone's interested let me know.

Also, anyone have any comments on the '97 or '98 KX 250 ? Reliablility ?
(This post is sure to get moved now ...

)

Posted by: sfc crash---------------------

wow scar tissue,hate to sound like a cherry here, but gettin' a custom built bike deliverd.ie klx 340,has gotta be swa-weet.and mr Eel,where in the world do you ride,or rate to be able to ride all those bikes.jeez... this hot dog stand is just not turning out like i'd imagined it:D

Posted by: holeshot---------------------

I can only comment on what magazines and owners have said about their '97, '98 KX250's, since I've never owned one.

The '98 KX250 was named bike of the year by a mag. that will go unnamed here, so I would have sold my '97 CR250 (back then) and went green if it weren't for the "no green" sticker issue that came up at the time. If I had known that I would get a green sticker anyway, I would have bought the bike.

One rider I that used to bang bars with had '98 YZ400F and a '98 KX250, and brought both bikes to the track with him. In the end, he preferred the KX over the YZF, so the blue bike was left sitting as a spare. This guy was a cop, so every time we had an on track encounter, he wanted to write me a ticket. He claimed the KX was "magic", and I couldn't argue, because I could rarely keep up with him when he was on the green bike. If Tony W. is lurking out there somewhere, maybe he can recall this guy's name? The '98 KX wasn't much different than the '97 (those bikes were fast). Durability? I guess actual owners would have to comment.

As far as pulling motochicks goes, TTR Guy better watch out for the Eel.

Posted by: the Eel---------------------

Yeah - I have read and heard that around '97 or '98 the KX 250 was a bike of the year. I've read that the '97 has a very strong low-end - which "wood" seem better suited to off-roading. The KX's I hear are generally stronger on low-end than the other MXers, which appeals to me. I also hear they are a little softer suspension wise and that seems like a plus for enduro or pure off-roading (plus I like softer suspension and the seats are cushy also).

The prices are right for these years - around $2,900 to $3,500. I figure I can spend that and sink in an extra few hundred bucks and have a light, powerful, well-suspended, green-stickered race bike that will be enjoybale to trail ride.

Unfortunately, people have told me that they're not particularly bullet-proof ... that makes me hesitate slightly.

Posted by: DEA---------------------

If you had a choice of a 99 or 2000 kx 250 for$3300 or a 01 426 for$ 4000 (used)or 99 ktm 300mx $3300 what would you choose???? thats prety much what Iv' narrowed it down to
thanks
DOUG

Posted by: the Eel---------------------

I'd go '99 KTM 300 M/XC - since they're all red sticker that would be a non-issue. The KTM would be very versatile and pretty light, and I'm fairly sure it would have a big tank. I would think $3,300 is a steal if it's in good shape.

By the way - does anyone know if any of the '98 race bikes were manufactured early enough to be legal green-sticker ? If so, I'll start looking at the '98s a bit harder.

Posted by: placelast---------------------

Quote:

Originally posted by the Eel
By the way - does anyone know if any of the '98 race bikes were manufactured early enough to be legal green-sticker ? If so, I'll start looking at the '98s a bit harder.

The '98 KX250 may be a better choice than the '97 as the former came with a power jet carb - enough extra electrical power to run a headlight. In '99 they went to a thinner seat and the side panels caught on the upper edge of the boot gaitor, some complained.

A guy I know had a '97 without major problems; raced it 2x/month for 4 years. Most KX complaints center around the poor footpeg hardware/mounting & other misc. items. Terry Cable, Ty's dad, came up with several fixes for those small, nagging things.

The (old design) '98 RMX250 was still green sticker-able (my '97 is); many of the '98/'99 KTMs & Gas Gas bikes were VINed favorably. Most (asian) post '97 and some '97 MX bikes are only red stickerable, but then again, reds are OK most of the year, year 'round on Kennedy Meadows.

The enduro fourm may be a good place to take up the KX (or other MXer conversion) off-road question.

PS: it be nice to find one with a wide-ratio (IMS, Moose) conversion, which is another reason why I settled on what I ended up with.

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