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crf forks (repair list) keep it growing
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Posted by: huffa---------------------
Thought it would be interesting to keep tabs on the fixes everyone is doing that has harsh forks. 1-possible rebound piston loose on cartridge 2- rt type 2 gold valves with 44 springs 3-too high oil volume . 4-Too stiff springs. I'm going to wait a while till I take mine apart ( won't be riding it much anymore with cold weather moving in ) and see whoo does what to the forks . Please keep this list growing by writing in the repairs that you make.
Posted by: yardpro---------------------
gold valve and.46 springs, self installed,, much better
Posted by: pro-design---------------------
I think you should concider other options than the ones given to you so far. gold valves alone do not address your active valving. Call wilkey for the hot set up for your bike he can really make those showas work.
Posted by: John Curea---------------------
The RT method of addressing the active valving is to remove it......:scream:
ANY advocates of midvalve compression removal out there....?? 
Posted by: yardpro---------------------
didn't say that RT was in any way the best, just better than stock. especially for a heavy rider.
Posted by: shaggy829---------------------
Quote:
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just better than stock especialy for a heavier rider
|
what design aspect of the RT system increases the performance benifits
for heavier riders . I typicly let the springs do the work for heavier or lighter
riders:think
Posted by: yardpro---------------------
The benefit of the rt system is that it basically comes with shims and valving charts to use as a starting point. I sent mine off and, boy was that a mistake. The r/t came with a video. I learned hoy to play with the valving myself. Now I can tune my suspension w/o costing me an arm and a leg. The problem I ran into was that the tuners thought ( I assume) that someone 6'3 260lb. was not very fast, and they also didn't realize the big jumps around here that I do.( thought I was B.S. ing). Way too soft. I sent them pack and paid again to get them to re-valve them, better, but not close to what I want.
This isn't a flame board so don't start in on RT. I agree that thiers is not the best system out there, but in my case it works well for me. If I could be guaranteed that a shop would get them better than I have them now ( and not have to keep reshipping them off ) i'D GLADLY LET THEM HAVE AT IT. My valving w/ the racetech system is not only better than stock, it it is much better than the company that worked on them( not mxt).
oh yea, I have the stiffest springs I could find .46 (I need .50). Since the springs are straight rate, they cannot alone give a plush rine in the initial stroke, while progressively offering more resistance as the fork moves through the stroke, also with a substantially stiffer spring the rebound force if much increased, so i have found that I needed to stiffen the rebound stack.
Right?
Posted by: John Curea---------------------
Yardpro
What are you driving? You shouldnt of had any problems finding .50 fork springs........
You paid to have a suspension job revalved because you were unhappy with the first results....bad business there pal....the company should have taken care of you on that one....
There are suspension companies who even offer a 100% money back guarentee.....imagine that
The biggest issue with RT and taken out the midvalve is that you loose the mid-speed compression advantage of a properly tuned active valving. Without the midvalve the base valve usually gets valved in a compromising fashion.
ex.(with the midvalve compression stack removed) In order to get the high compression light enough to make the suspension plush over the small stuff, you end up loosing bottoming resistence. And on the flip side, if you valve for good bottoming resistence, you end up with a harsh ride over the small stuff.
With a properly tuned midvalve, you bridge "the gap" , you are able to valve light enough with the base valve for good (read comfortable) high speed compression and you have the "active valving" to aid in the bottoming resistence.
Take Care, John
* As we are taught, so shall we teach........
Posted by: John Curea---------------------
Yardpro
I almost forgot about the question concerning stiffening up the rebound stack because you are using stiffer fork springs.
You are thinking that the rebound action is going to be faster because you are using heavier springs......dont forget that those springs are pushing the bike plus a 260lb. rider, the additional weight of a heavier rider will cancel out any tendancy for the springs to cause a faster rebound.
If you found springs which are too stiff for your weight, you might have an argument about the rebound being too fast, on the flip side , if you used springs that are too soft for your weight, the rebound action would be too slow.
CORRECT spring rates should keep the rebound rate consistent.
Posted by: yardpro---------------------
thanks for the info. I knew I got burned on the fork service. That's why I went with RT. There aren't any shops localy, and even if they would have dont the adjustments for free, there was a hefty shipping charge and a two week down time.
I'm very mechanically inclined, and like hands on do--it-yourself stuff. Can I re install the stock rebound componets, with the compression damping stack, and revalve the compression valve? And remember, All I said at the begining was that thr RT was better than stock for me.
Almost forgot, '99 cr250
and thanks for not being stingy with your knowledge. Any tips on a place for the spring or on my idea on the valving?
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