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250F Washer Fix??
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Posted by: MWEISSEN---------------------
In the "broken crank" thread, I saw two references to a "washer fix" on the clutch. I sure don't remember seeing mention of this anywhere (OK, maybe I need bifocals...). Can anyone help me by telling me what's that all about? What are the symptoms, etc, of needing this "fix"?
Posted by: Don Marsh---------------------
Check out thumper talk its been discused alot.
I really helped mine.
Posted by: Humai---------------------
Mark,
It seems that some 250Fs' clutch pedestals were made too short, which allowed the clutch springs to coil-bind prior to the clutch being fully disengaged, causing clutch drag and a feeling of binding when pulling the clutch lever in fully.
Placing washers under the clutch spring retaining bolts prevents this happening. It is important that the washers do not contact the spring coils - they must fit inside the coils but "pack out" the retaining bolt.
My WR250F suffered slight clutch drag and responded well to this fix.
HTH!
Posted by: WRecker---------------------
Humai, how thick were the washers that you used? I did mine last week using washers that were .066" thick, and it did nothing to reduce the clutch drag. It's just as difficult as ever to find neutral when hot, and it still wants to jump when you snick it into gear. By the way, at the same time, I did the drilling modification on the clutch hub, adding the extra oiling passages. That didn't help either.
Posted by: Humai---------------------
WRecker, mine were not as thick - probably closer to 30 thou than 66. My clutch drag was relatively minor before the mod.
Are you sure the washers are not contacting the springs in any way?
Posted by: WRecker---------------------
Absolutely. There's probably a total of .03" clearance between the o.d. of the washer and the i.d. of the spring. I do not notice an obvious difference between how it operates now, as opposed to what it was like before. I'm getting ready to tear the bike down for the winter, (I've yet to do the YZ cam timing change, and I've got an IMS tank and SDG seat to install, plus I'm going to make a new top triple clamp for oversize bars) and I think I'm going to dismantle the clutch again and do some measuring and math to see if the "washer fix" really is necessary (I'm pretty skeptical that the springs are coil-binding). I think it may be more an issue of the position of the clutch actuator arm and/or the pull ratio at the lever, but I haven't taken the time to look at it yet.
Posted by: Humai---------------------
As you suggest, it sounds like your clutch may be dragging for other reasons.
On mine prior to the mod, I could actually feel the coil binding when pulling in the clutch lever.
Good luck with finding the cause and let us know what you find.
Posted by: marklb---------------------
I had the clutch problem also, I have a yzf250 as well and no problem. I checked the part numbers and the springs are different for the 2 bikes the wr springs are shorter! I put the yzf springs in and it works fine, the pull is a little harder but that will be good for you! Mark
Posted by: WRecker---------------------
Putting a longer spring in your clutch could exacerbate the problem of coil binding (if it exists already), not cure it. It depends on the thickness of the wire and the number of turns of the spring. Does the YZF spring have thinner wire? Less turns?
I'll be tearing my bike down this weekend. I'll report back what I find about the stock clutch hub/spring clearance and actuator arm scenario.
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