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Frozen Swingarm Bolt
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Posted by: tuckmt---------------------
I have a '96 XR400 and the swingarm bolt is stuck. I have pounded and pounded with no luck.
Any Suggestions???
Don't really want to drill it out.
:scream:
Posted by: OKKX'er---------------------
Have you loosened the motor mount bolts? This takes the swingarm bolt out of tension. Spray in some liquid wrench and soak overnight. Good luck.
Posted by: ochster---------------------
You may wan't to do a search, there have been some very detailed solutions posted on this topic in the past.
Posted by: rosshh---------------------
I bet you are talking about the recessed brass bolt that goes through the swingarm and the top of the linkage. What I do is pull the tire iron out of my truck and use it as drift with the biggest hammer I can find. (One side of the tire iron fits perfectly over the end of the bolt). When I put the bolt back in I grease the recessed area. I have wondered why honda made that recessed area of the swingarm hug the head of the bolt so tight.
Posted by: SFO---------------------
I have a large framed hydraulic press that is perfect for rusted in place swing arm pivots...
I put the whole bike in the press and put the squeeze on...
Posted by: Trailryder42---------------------
Like Ochster said, do a search, but the 4 main ingredients are WD-40 or similar, heat, an air hammer and patience.
Posted by: Grok---------------------
work it both ways.
Posted by: tuckmt---------------------
How have you guys applied the heat in the past? I do not want to melt or burn anything up.
I think heating is my next option. I have really poured the WD, Kroil Oil and banged the living SH*T out of it. I took the motor mounts loose as well.
I have tried turning with an impact wrench as well and it will not turn either way. The threads are starting to mushroom so I have to get this bugger out of there.
I noticed that the bolt is hollow so I was wonding if I could get a device that could heat a rod or wire to insert in the hollow portion of the bolt.
Not sure about the torch method as that would waste my bushings a possibly catch fire.
Looking into borrowing portable jack press from work as well. Did search but appears that most folks just got out by pounding.
:think
Posted by: woodchuck---------------------
Howdy,
I just went thru the same problem, however it was on a GasGas. Im not sure if the Honda is the same way. On the GG the bolt is not really a bolt but a rod threaded at both ends with a nut on each end. This has a big advantage over a bolt in that: I removed the nut from one side and placed a short stack of compression washers under it then cranked down with a big breaker bar to try to pull the rod thru. While the rod was being "pulled" by the compressed washers I beat like heck on the other end with a slugde hammer, beat , tightened, beat, tightened then whalla! It came out. I also soaked it in wd-40 and removed all motor mounts first. ("Kroil" brand penetrating oil is said to work much better than wd-40) If your Honda bolt is actually a bolt, I just wasted a few key strokes, best of luck :D
WoodChuck
Posted by: ochster---------------------
tuckmt, It doesn't apear the post I remember were archived...too bad. It sounds like you have already got happy with a hammer, so you will need to do some repairing. If that bolt is ever going to be driven thru, you will need to grind down, or file, the mushroomed end off. After that you wan't to make sure and isolate as much of the force on the bolt as possible. I will assume at this point you do not have a press large enough to consider that option. I would then lay the bike over, and block up from the floor to the frame, where the pivot bolt head is. You would be surprised at how much flex actually is taking place and pinching the bolt as you drive it. I prefer to use a air hammer, the kind they use for removing mufflers, with a blunt (flat) driver. You can also use a big drift punch of some sort and a good size hammer. This will be easier with a helper to steady the bike as you whack it. Make sure they are solid accurate strikes to avoid further damage to the bolt end, otherwise you will need to regrind the end. I have heard of people tacking a rod to the head of the pivot bolt and using a big slide hammer, although I have not done that. My next thought would be to consider sacrificing a couple parts, most notabley some collars, seals, and the bolt itself. Simply use a hacksaw or Sawzall, and cut the bolt between the cases and swingarm, and swingarm and frame. At this point your best to remove everything you can, brake, shock, airbox, muffler, wheel, etc. Some tapered wood shims will help to give you barely enough room to not hurt the frame. The cups and collars on the swingarm are the least expensive to replace. You could also cut between the cases and swingarm, remove the engine, then deal with driving the sides out with a long punch. That way you for sure don't hurt the frame. This aint no fun! it is without a doubt one of the worst mechanical nightmares one can have. Be methodical and accurate so you don't "hamburger" everything up. I have baught bikes where people have literally given up out of frustration. Good Luck!
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