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preparing bike for mud/rain, what to do?

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Posted by: Nevada Sixx---------------------

ok guys,,
if you knew you were gonna ride in muddy woods with light rain/snow,, what would you do to your bike to help keep mud and water from ruining your day? Someone told me to put tape around my plug cap the keep water out,, and sometimes double sided tape on the seat to stay on the bike better... what all have you guys heard or done?

thanks..


Posted by: FLBob---------------------

Tape around the plug won't help much. If you use the double sided tape make sure you use the quick release type so you can get off when you crash(That part's a joke.)
Look at all of your ignition wiring real carefully, specially plug wire and cap. Replace anything that doesn't look perfect. Make sure there is no way water can enter the engine case at the flywheel where wires go in, silicone caulk works here but can look messy. Then spray the ignition wires with a water displacing spray, WD-40 works, but I think there are better ones. You might even want to carry a small can of spray with you. I usually stuff the plug cap with conductive silicone grease.

If you haven't had your bike out in the rain before and you want to be sure it won't let you down you might want to start it up, warm it up and then spray it lightly with a hose while it is running to see if it can take it.

If you might be going into deep water you need to make sure water can't get into the engine through the airbox/carb. The lowest hole in your airbox(except for the snorkel) is the high water limit for you.

I would also add some drygas to your gas (your bike's tank and storage can).


Posted by: ToddHawaii---------------------

Hmmm. I agree with FLBob on the spark plug. Grip seat cover - wire handle grips - foam in-between skidplate and frame, steering stabilizer, coat entire bike in WD-40 or similar, silicone water sensitive areas(plug cap, ignition wires), stiffen suspension(extra weight of mud), front fender stabilizer(just broke mine last week-mud caked + jumping). Just a few things...

Alooooha!
TrailTramp
98'87'73'Husky


Posted by: xrsforever---------------------

for mud not rain I put duct tape on the bottom of the fenders,so you can just rip the tape apart and off comes the mud/use several pieces if needed. Also for mud I go down 3-4lbs on air pressure. Lastly I use skid pate foam, and cut out a little square with a hole in the middle and place on top of the spark plug. I have heard of people using Pam or WD 40 underneath fenders but I get better results with duct tape,you may also want to carry an extra pair of gloves,


Posted by: lawman---------------------

ok, those are good suggestions for the bike, there are also things to do for the rider. as xr's said, i carry spare gloves, at least 1 pair. there are mud gloves designed to be grippy even when wet or muddy. if you'll be making laps (hs or something), leave other pairs where you can find them in a hurry. same with goggles, i have a big compartment in the fanny pack just for this. put 'em in a big ziplock. for mud i'll use roll-offs, for rain either roll-offs with fishing line or just rain-x. i tape an old goggle lens on the underside of the visor with about 1 1/2 inches sticking out, to extend the visor. tape up the crack between your helmet & visor at the top, keeps water from running thru the crack down on your face. decide if you'll need some sort of rain coat/pants. if there'll be really deep water, tape the tops of your boots to your pants, keeps that cold water from pouring down into your boots. plan for extra fuel consumption due to wheelspin/extra weight.


Posted by: ride_red_15---------------------

i really dont do that much...carry spare gloves, watch for deep water and slick wood...and ride till' i cant hold on to the grips anymore


Posted by: LocoCD---------------------

Double up on antifog in your goggles, the extra work, coat, moisture all contibute to a real fogging problem. I also take a handfull of paper towels in a zip lock to dry things off.

Make sure your airbox drain is clear.

Use an o-ring chain.


Posted by: fishhead---------------------

I use wd 40 liberally and took all my electrcal connectors apart and put petroleum jelly in them to seal out the water.

I carry 2 rags in zip locks for glass and goggle cleaning and a good set of rain gear. I also carry the 10 essentails so I can spend the night out if I have to.


Posted by: drtbikesrule---------------------

i ride in the muchiest stuff like peet bogs and stuff like that and trust me if your riding in the cold watch out that the throttle line doesnt freeze!!!that happened to my friends 250 and the results werent pleasent...


Posted by: Kawierider---------------------

Ive had good results with a cheap pair of watersports gloves like the on ethey use for jet skis or waterskiing. they are warm and they give good grip.
Tim


Posted by: TexKDX---------------------

Quote:
Originally posted by FLBob

I would also add some drygas to your gas (your bike's tank and storage can).


I recommend against this if your bike is a 2 stroke. drygas is isopropyl alcohol. It bonds with the water in the fuel and separates it from the fuel, then acts as an antifreeze until the separated mixture is pulled thru the engine. At that time you have no oil or gas, just alcohol and water going thru the engine. Not good. Fresh Shell or Amoco 93 octane should do the trick. No gasohol, no way.

Depending on the bike, you might want to add some tape around the frame at the airbox. Some bikes, like the perimeter-framed KX and KDX, can funnel water splash from the front wheel up under the tank and into the airbox.

Fresh soft terrain tires and new brake pads are a must. Good hand guards with plastic deflectors (moose, fredette, EE) help keep the hands dry. Make sure your footpegs are in good shape and don't point down on the outside, and your grips are fresh too. If your bike was set up stiff for some reason, backing off a few clicks of compression may help too since you may not be going as fast on the slop.

The seat tape thing sounds hokey to me - you keep yourself on a bike by balancing your weight against the forces (turning/braking/accelerating) with your hands and legs, not your butt.

The last thing? ATTITUDE!! Relish being a kid again. It all washes off when you're done.


Posted by: Highbeam---------------------

The alcohol in the gas dryer bonds with the water, dissociation I think they call it. When the alcohol bonds with the water, it makes a byproduct that is not water anymore and is supposed to burn well.

I have had good luck with it in cars but unless you buy crappy gas or leave the gas cap off in the rain you shouldn't need it. The tank is pretty much sealed and significant condensation is unlikely. A gas preservative may be more beneficial if you store the fuel very long before burning it.

The only things that bother me when riding in the wet stuff are poor tires slipping, goggles fogging, and getting cold from being wet. I've even seen folks wearing rain gear to stay dry. Staying warm and dry is my advice for the best chance of enjoying the ride. The bikes do fine.


Posted by: TexKDX---------------------

Quote:
Originally posted by Highbeam
The alcohol in the gas dryer bonds with the water, dissociation I think they call it. When the alcohol bonds with the water, it makes a byproduct that is not water anymore and is supposed to burn well.


It may burn well, but it does not lubricate very well... in fact alcohol makes a fine solvent.


Posted by: xrsforever---------------------

One more suggestion...use duct tape around your boots and pants and create a water tight seal.


Posted by: TexKDX---------------------

Hey xrsforever,

At the next event I'll help you out with the waterproofing - I hear that duct taping your helmet to your chest protector helps too...

What color would you like me to use???


Posted by: Jtown---------------------

I recommend a solid rear brake rotor if you do much mud riding. You'll get much longer pad life than with vented rotors. Vented rotors hold mud and wear your pads out.


Posted by: TexKDX---------------------

To your point jtown, have you seen this article here on DRN?

http://dirtrider.net/drn_tested/erider/solid_rotor.html



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