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Posted by: DVO---------------------
I want to put some bark busters on my bike but hear there are different sizes of bars out there. It seems a lot of people change their bars for aftermarket..why?...better balance, position etc. or stronger?
If I'll eventually need different bars, I'd get them niow before investing in bark busters that will become obsolete.
My bar position seems comfortable but an old right thumb sprain is nagging me and I'm wondering if a different bend/sweep will lessen the pain. Any suggestions? FYI..I'm 6', long in the torso. Thanx, DVO
Posted by: Sage---------------------
stock bars not hollow at the tip and kind of weak.
Posted by: freydog---------------------
I cut an inch of each end of the stock bars and they still were not hollow. Bark busters wont work unless you have an aftermarket bar.
Posted by: Lew---------------------
I know that bark busters can really save your equipment and hands, but hear me out. I have this great concern of my arm getting between the handlebar and the bark buster during a crash and causing a life shattering fracture. However small the chance is you all should think about it. I would rather buy new equipment than not be able to ride anymore. Thanks for hearing me..
Lew
Posted by: Sage---------------------
I've seen all 4 left fingers broken by a clutch lever, I use my hand gaurds quite a lot and could not imagine not having full metal ones. I hear what your saying but for me I'll take the risk of full metal guards.
Posted by: dirt bike dave---------------------
Barkbusters are a must, IMO. In the days before good hand guards I had some fingers smashed pretty good (not broken).
If you custom mount the inner bark buster mount to the upper triple clamp pinch bolts you will have more room between the BB and the bar, so you'll be less likely to get caught in the event of an over the bars crash. Also, the Cycra 'Pro-Bends' are bent lower and are more out of the way than normal. I've known people who broke their hands on hand guards as they've gone over the bars.
The anti-vibration plugs in the ends of the stock bars would be very difficult to saw through! They are spot welded in place. You can knock them loose by drilling a shallow hole in the end, than tapping a lag bolt into your hole. Spinning the bolt with wrench will knock the pot metal plug loose.
Whether you run busters or not, if you want to trim down the stock bars you have to deal with those plugs. Most aftermarket bars are much stronger.
Posted by: ChR1s---------------------
I have the same concerns about the potential for getting caught up in the guards. On my last bike I had Acerbis Pro Rallys. This time I went with the Acerbis Rally brushguards. My thinking (beside the plastic guards being lighter) is that my guards are primarily used to deflect brush and prevent my fingers from getting pinched. If I happen to tap a tree with the guard, the guards should be strong enough to deflect the bars w/o caving in around my hands. And, the plastic guards are a more forgiving when twisted so that hopefully if my hand(s) should get snared up in them during a get-off, the plastic might give enough to save my hands / wristst.
Posted by: Michelle---------------------
Sorry, going slightly off topic here - with Rally Pro's - can you buy new plastic or do you just chuck the whole thing away & start again?
I went with them due to breaking cheaper guards - they couldn't seem to handle the speeds I fell off at - really slow - my husband still runs cheaper ones as they last well with his high speed crashes - go figure, I can't, except maybe the angle the bike was dumped at. The way I dump bikes, the metal helps save the levers & brush guards just wouldn't do it for me - each to their own though 
I changed bars due to the stockers being crap, but went with the closest to stock bar bend possible (5'3" they were okay). FMF 909's (not sure of the bend) - had them around a year no problemo, but my husband had his about 2-3 months & bent them. I managed to bend a set of Renthals due to a bad crash into a tree (dented front rim & bent the axle).
Michelle
Posted by: Fred T---------------------
when I rode enduros in the late 70's we didn't have bark busters and I have 2 messed up little fingers. I've probably broken them several times each by getting smacked by trees, branches, levers, etc while going fast. Bark buster are the greatest invention since back pack hydration systems. With the way enduros are laid out now with extreamly tight sections to take points I don't know how one would ride these sections with out bark busters. Not me!
Enduro Engeneering makes great bar inserts for your busters, I've got the Fredette ones, but they are the same as EE ones. I use the Tag X-5 bars which are slightly stronger than Renthals (1MM thinker inside) and they fit real well.
Posted by: dirt bike dave---------------------
Just wanted to add that the plastic guards for the Fredette handsavers are much softer than most. IMO, this makes them less likely to hurt your hand or wrist in the event of a crash.
Fred T - I share your love of barkbusters for woods riding. I sure get my money's worth out of mine 
Posted by: DVO---------------------
Sorry to interrupt 
but I have a few more questions..
If I do change to aftermarket, can I just replace the bars?
From what I've seen the pro tapers require a new upper triple clamp is that right? Is it worth it? Are there others like this?
Will my stock controls still fit?
Should I go with a thicker/stronger bar?
Is the weight savings of aluminum that significant?
If I'm going to spend the bucks to replace them I'd like to get something that'll last (unbreakable), ie: if it's guaranteed for life-I'm willing to pay for it . Problem is the only people I know with bikes are you and I have no examples to try out.
Are CR Highbends an exact copy of the Hondas' and can I just go sit on one and assume the feel etc will be the same. It's a lot of cash to plunk down without some assurance that I'll get what's right for me.
I'm in the process of joining a provincial riding association/club and should eventually find hands on examples of parts and other bikes to compare. In the mean-time, any help you guys can give me is greatly appreciated. Thanx, DVO
Posted by: dirt bike dave---------------------
DVO-
The pro-tapers are 1.125" outer diameter near the center, but narrow to 7/8" (standard size) at the ends, so you can use all your stock controls. On most Kawasakis, the bar clamps are separate peices from the triple clamps, so you do need to replace the bar clamps but you keep the triple clamp. If you mount bark busters to the inner part of the pro-taper, you would need oversize clamps there, also.
My current bike had pro-tapers when I bought it. HOWEVER, your money is much better spent on suspension, a steering damper, good tires, protective guards, etc... If you have all those things and still have some money left over, get the pro-tapers.
Virtually any bar will be stronger than the stocker. Pro-tapers are very strong, may eliminate some vibration, and they flex a little when you land from a big jump, which feels different but doesn't make you faster.
Posted by: craig---------------------
In the 1989 Delaware Enduro, my buddy tried to clear a creek in one shot and hit the far bank... he broke the bones in the back of his hand when it came off of the bars and met the barkbuster. It can happen. He still uses barkbusters, and so do I. You gotta weigh the odds and go with what works for you...
Craig
Posted by: DVO---------------------
Thanks guy for the info, now I have a sense of direction. Just waitin' for the bike show.
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