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2 stroke oil ???????

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Posted by: FLYIN_KAW---------------------

Does anyone use castor 927 racing oil?
I was using but switched back to Silkolene.
just wondering what everyone uses.
What is the best product. If there is a significant difference.
Has there ever been a test on different oils on DRN?


Posted by: KDX220rm---------------------

I was a strong Yamalube 2R user until I read good reviews here on DRN about Mobil-1 MX2T full synthetic 2 stroke oil available at Auto Zone for 3.25 a pint.


Posted by: BEEF706---------------------

Been using Motul 800 synthetic, runs really clean, I think the powervalve stays cleaner as well.


Posted by: grass-digger---------------------

i have been using bardahl with great results


Posted by: MikeT---------------------

I used 927 but it spooged in my bike. I switched to Maxima SuperM and I have been happy ever since with it.


Posted by: Senior KX Rider---------------------

I have run the castor oils and had problems with spooge and never could do away with it by jetting. I like Yamalube 2-R and Mobil1 MX2T


Posted by: KXCam---------------------

After 14 years of MX racing using Belray MC-1 at 85:1 I have come to worship it. A great oil...No oil failures and low wear. I highly recommend it! The past year I have been experimenting with Belray H1-R at 60:1. It seems as good as MC-1 and I'm hoping it will prove to be even better.


Posted by: Durt Cycler---------------------

KXCam what bike get the 85:1 mix?


Posted by: Whoops---------------------

I use Mobil in my dirt bikes and castor 927 in my weed eater and leaf blower. I just love the smell

Whoops


Posted by: tristan68---------------------

I run motul 800, just like WHOOPS said with the smell, the motul smells good too. use it in my weedeater too cause it smells like i'm riding my bike.


Posted by: DEA---------------------

When in doubt " Klotz it"


Posted by: lobotomy---------------------

After dealing with constant spooge, I switched from Golden Spectro to the Mobil-1 MX2T and have had nothing but success. Give it a shot.


Posted by: Tommygun---------------------

I tried 927 after using Motul 800 for about 6 months. Could not tell the difference in performance. I went with the 927 oil only because my dealer said it smelled like the old Castrol "R" from the 1970's. Not even close. I WANT REAL BEAN OIL SMELL. Where can I get it? I don't care if it gums up my power valve, I want the smell I used to have long ago, and far far away...


Posted by: RakO---------------------

Quote:
Originally posted by Tommygun
I tried 927 after using Motul 800 for about 6 months. Could not tell the difference in performance. I went with the 927 oil only because my dealer said it smelled like the old Castrol "R" from the 1970's. Not even close. I WANT REAL BEAN OIL SMELL. Where can I get it? I don't care if it gums up my power valve, I want the smell I used to have long ago, and far far away...


If you want the real SMELL go for Castrol 747 ...I'm using it for over 20 years !!!
The smell is incredible....WROM WROMM
I heard that MOTOREX is also smelling like THE 747 ....did someone tried ..
Rako who believes that the odor factor is important..


Posted by: bigred455---------------------

Quote:
Originally posted by Tommygun
I tried 927 after using Motul 800 for about 6 months. Could not tell the difference in performance. I went with the 927 oil only because my dealer said it smelled like the old Castrol "R" from the 1970's. Not even close. I WANT REAL BEAN OIL SMELL. Where can I get it? I don't care if it gums up my power valve, I want the smell I used to have long ago, and far far away...
....
BLENDZALL IS WHAT YOU WANT


Posted by: bigred455---------------------

Quote:
Originally posted by FLYIN_KAW
Does anyone use castor 927 racing oil?
I was using but switched back to Silkolene.
just wondering what everyone uses.
What is the best product. If there is a significant difference.
Has there ever been a test on different oils on DRN?
..

927 is my oil of choice excellent ring seal, excellent protection.I have no spooge issues what so ever


Posted by: Tommygun---------------------

Thanks for the advice RakO and Bigred455! I can't wait to ride! It's funny, my kids just think the bean oil smell stinks.


Posted by: derekk87---------------------

i changed from yamalube to 927 for the smell i to run it in my weedeater i cant get enough of it


Posted by: old#48---------------------

For what its worth, I have been doing some checking on these 100% synthetic oils for pre-mix use. I am not, and never will be any kind of an oil expert, but from what I can tell, it appears that Maxima Formula K2, Belray H1R, Motul 800 2T, and the Redline oils are formulated from "polyolester or POE" basestocks while most of the other good synthetics are formulated from PAO (polyalphaolephin) base stocks.

From what I've read, the POE based oils offer the best lubrication qualities, while the PAO based oils, while still extremely good, are not as good as the POE oils. Esters (POE's) are cleaner burning, have more thermal and oxidative stability and reduced friction. They also have polar ends which chemically adhere to metal surfaces for additional film strength and load carrying capability. Their drawback is higher cost.

Even so, you can read all ya want, but common sense tells ya that actual observed use in an engine would be the best thing to go by. I have noticed that a few people are not really too up on this oil thing. I was riding the other day and talked to a guy with a brand new '02 Suzuki RM125 and he was using that SuperTech 2-stroke oil from Walmart and wondered if that was why it wasn't running as good as the day he bought it. I guess that could be blamed on the dealer for not educating him; its really not at all his fault for not knowing what to run.

From what I've read, the Mobil1 products are PAO based. This does not in any way make them any less than excellent products, plus I think they are lower cost (depending on the product) and somewhat easier to find.

Concerning clutch/trans oils:
I use the 20w50 cycle-specific Mobil1 V-Twin 4-stroke oil in my (2-stroke) clutch/transmission, although I have now noticed that the Mobil1 cycle-specific 4-stroke oils are about the same (high) price as the ester (POE) based cycle-specific 4-stroke oils so I may switch to one of those or, more likely, go with a lower priced, non-synthetic clutch/trans specific oil since I've learned it's wise to change the clutch/trans oil very frequently due to the clutch wear particles which tend to act something like sandpaper on the rest of the trans components. The 4-stroke guys have an oil filter workin for 'em, but, as you know, the 2-stroker's clutch/trans doesn't have an oil filter.

I have also seen a few on the boards mention using the Mobil1 15w50 red cap car oil in their 2-stroke's clutch/trans. From what I've read, (remember, I am not an oil expert) this oil is OK to use with a wet clutch as long as the oil is not marked "Energy Conserving". I believe the 5w30 and 10w30 oils are marked "Energy Conserving", while the 0w40 and 15w50 oils are not marked this way. The "Energy Conserving" oils reportedly have some sort of additional friction modifiers in them which makes them not too great to use with a wet clutch and may cause it to slip.

I have also read that the cycle-specific oils have additive packages specifically designed for wet clutches and have higher levels of zinc and phosphorous in them than the car oils - zinc and phosporous are good anti-wear/extreme pressure additives helpful in preventing metal-to-metal contact and therefore wear. The car oils have lower levels of zinc and phosphorous because they must be compatible with catalytic converters. My non-expert opinion is that the car oils are not as good as using a cycle-specific oil but they are lower cost.

Heck, I always used to run plain old Castrol 20w50 GTX in all my old dirt bikes' clutch/trans and my Kawasaki SR650 street bike and never had a transmission problem or clutch slippage in any of 'em. I guess one viewpoint is: "if your clutch slips, it may be time to try another oil, but if it don't, probably not worth worrying about". The other viewpoint (which I would guess a lot of us fall into) is : "This bike is my baby, so I'm going to put the best of everything in it." Most of us, due to budget, need to find a common sense compromise between the two extremes.


Posted by: Dave Elliott---------------------

Which oil to use is always a preference from personal experience and mine is not any different. I have never had an oil related failure (using HP2, Super-M, Spectro, Silkolene, Bel-Ray, Redline, etc.) but have noticed the difference in carbon build-up, burnt on deposits, and wear on the piston and cylinder. Silkolene Comp2 has been the worst and RedLine has been by far the best. The rings will rattle on the piston when you take it out because they are so clean. Just don't break your bike in on it. Use a full petroleum based oil.


Posted by: bwalker---------------------

Redline IMO is complete garbage. Corrosion issues galore.


Posted by: tonyromero---------------------

So its ok to use the 4stroke labeled gear oil in the two stroke tranny? What about the guy running 85:1? I haven't had a two stroke in 20 yrs but isn't 32:1 standard? Does the ratio vary depending on which oil you use? One guy said not to use a synthetic oil for break in, did he mean gear or pre mix? Why are synthetics not used for break in?


Posted by: old#48---------------------

Normally, gear oils are not labeled 2 or 4stroke. Usually, the 4 strokes have the engine and trans/clutch all on the same oil and motor oil is used. There are gear oils (like Belrays's GearSaver) meant for the trans/clutch of 2 stroke bikes (and 4 strokes that have a separate engine and trans/clutch oils).

Most synthetic 2stroke oils run at 40 to 50:1 but some run them at 32:1 and some run them at over 50:1. Just go by the owner's manual and the oil manufactuer's recommendations.

Synthetic oils are usually not used for break-in in either a 2stroke's pre-mix or a 4 stroke because they are so slick that they do not allow the piston rings to scuff and "seat" like they're suppose to.

It is OK to use a synthetic oil for break-in for the 2 stroke trans/clutch oil.

For a viewpoint on 2 stroke break-in, go to ktmtalk in the Tips and Tricks forum. For a viewpoint on 4 stroke break-in go to mototuneusa.com.


Posted by: old#48---------------------

To finish on the 2 stroke's gear oil, some people use the gear oils like GearSaver, but most use a 10w40, 20w50 or 15w50 motor oil because often that is what the owner's manual will recommend.

Some use "cycle specific" motor oils and some use "automotive" motor oils. The auto oils are generally thought of as OK to use with a wet clutch as long as they are not marked "Energy Conserving SJ" - the SJ oils have additional friction modifiers in them and they are not good to use with a wet clutch. In general, the 0w30, 5w30 and 10w30 oils will be marked "Energy Conserving SJ" while the 10w40, 20w50 or 15w50 oils will not be.

The cycle specific motor oils have higher levels of zinc and phosphorous in them which are excellent wear preventers. The auto oils cannot have as much of the zinc and phos because they must be compatible with the catalytic converters found on cars. The cycle specific oils are also formulated to be completly compatible with a wet clutch.


Posted by: SPR---------------------

One important thing no one has mentioned is to try and use Pre-Mix only oils in MX bikes. The (Auto-Lube) oils are much thinner (SAE 20W) and Pre-Mix only oils are (SAE 40 or higher). The thicker oil film gives you that extra margin of protection before the metal parts push through the oil film and go into what is called "boundary lubrication". When oils go into boundary lubrication the oils anti-wear chemicals become activated providing a last barrier of protection before failure. Keeping engine parts within an oil film (Hydrodynamic Lubrication) is the best protection you can get so it makes sense to use the thicker Pre-Mix only oils. The thinner Auto-Lube oils are made this way to ensure the oil mix pumps can supply oil to the 2 stroke engine even in cold conditions. No MX bikes have seperate oil / fuel systems so try not to use these oils regardless of brand.


Posted by: FireRescueFL---------------------

I use Amsoil synthetic 10w40 4-cycle oil in the tranny and Amsoil Series 2000 synthetic 2-cycle at 50:1 in my pre-mix.



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