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Help needed with kdx200 running bad

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Posted by: briora---------------------

Just got my son a 1984 kdx 200, it's running terrible when first starts it seems o.k. after riding for about 10 minutes it starts to bog real bad I think I could run faster than the bike and will stall. It was running rich when we got it, so we did variuos like clean the air filter, change the gas , plug, and moved the clip up one. started much easier in 3-4 kicks with choke on. But stil runs like shyt soon after. It seems to still run rich by looking at the plug it is a very dark brown & a little wet. Moving the air adjustment seemed to do no good either way all the way in to all the way out. The clip is currently in the second from top position, wondering if I should attemp to go to the top? The guy we got it from said he just put in boysen reeds but didn,t make any adjustments. although I have since we got it. Just trying to figure this one out. I thinks it's when it gets hot it bogs, or a rich problem. I've seen alot of talk on here about Adjusting the main and the pilot. not sure what you guys are talking about, wondering if they atre adjustments I should be making to try and correct my problem. It's all new to me I'm a 4 stroke guy. But with KDX I better learn the 2's.
Thanks


Posted by: Moose95---------------------

Briora,
The main and pilot are jets in the carb, a lot of people change the size of these jets to compensate for altitude and such. I really can't speak too much about it since I'm a "wrench-in-training", basically learning as I tool on my bike. You mentioned that your bike bogs, I'm assuming that your fouling plugs? What is your pre-mix ratio at? Have you looked on this site for Fredette's comments on your particular bike year group? If you look around here there are members here who own and ride the older KDX bikes, lots of good data out there. Hope that your problem is something simple like a stuck choke and you get it sorted out soon. Good luck!


Posted by: Superrat73---------------------

Hi there!,
Your problem is probably in the carb...but not definately. When you cleaned the carb, did you remove the 2 jets and blow out all the passages? Also, the bottom of the choke plunger is rubber...what condition is it in? remember, that bike is pretty old and rubber does rot. The reeds that were put on it will not make it run bad unless they are warped. Another thing I have seen is someone put a piston in backwards...on a twostroke, it DOES matter. if you live near sealevel, the stock jetting is right on for a '84. Does it have the stock muffler? It could be carboned up. Last thing to check is the float/valve ass'y. look at the manuel carefully...there is a tiny spring that holds the float valve to the float...is it installed correctly? and, shake the float...does it have fluid in it?
by the way...i have one too!


Posted by: briora---------------------

it has an answer pipe on it, carb looks good to me it runs good at first. it bogs and dies whenever it gets hot. after riding for about 10 minutes


Posted by: briora---------------------

i just took out the aftermarket reeds and put the stock ones back in. then i figured that might work so i took it out when i was done and again in like 10 mins it died out. then i pushed it onto the street and jump started it and rode home which is like 2 mins away.


Posted by: kx125rida295---------------------

YO! Nikka u gotta richen up the oil cuz its a older bike and it needs more oil! Just add a little more oil to the gas like 3 ounces or just get a rato rite. Once u richen it up u aint gonna be boggin down ne more. i gotta 2001 kx 125 and my ratio is 32:1 so urs cant be 40:1 on a 84 2 stroke. and if u keep on runnin it wit not enough oil ur gonna blow it up.


Posted by: woodsy---------------------

Hi:

Diagnostics are tough without actually seeing, hearing, smelling the bike... But I shall try:

Remove your air filter and make sure there is nothing (like to much oil on the filter) keeping her from breathing - now take the pipe off and check it for carbon buildup on its interior walls - check the exaust opening also for the same. Look into the exhaust opening with a flashlight and check the piston for scuffing/ring damage.
It sounds to me like you may very well have a stuck ring/worn top end. Two strokes play all kind of funny little games when they are weak!!

Woodsy


Posted by: briora---------------------

hey woodsy,
the guy that sold it to me said it wont need a top end and stuff for a couple of seasons. he did a few things to it. new boyeson reeds. aftermarket Answer SApro pipe. let me know if u can b of anymore help.
Thanks, joel


Posted by: woodsy---------------------

Joel:

If I were in your shoes that comment from the previous owner would really mean only one thing to me - start from scratch!! The way it is in the real world is something like this: NO ONE _ NO WHERE_NO HOW can tell you or I how soon or often any scoot is going to need a topend job!! Items like: air filter maintenance, pipe to jug seal maintenance, riding style, amount of water in the air, type of and amount of oil used in pre-mix, plug heat ranges, ambient tembs, who did the previous top end work (I think you get the point). When ever I have some one tell me something like that (especially 2 years worht of prediction) I get nervous!!
I would suggest that you begin your investigation into the items suggested so you can get your bike fixed and go back to riding!!!! That is really more fun then working on them or even playing on these computers for that matter
Let me know how you come out!
CYA in the woods
Woodsy


Posted by: gooby---------------------

believe none of what u hear,half of what u see.look into everything urself.kx125rida 40:1 is less oil /more gas which tech is a richer mix,rich/lean is about the ammt of fuel not oil in the ratio.32:1 is what a lot of people mix just jet accordingly.ask a kawi shop what u should mix it at if all else fails ? just tryin to help
i mixed 32:1 for an 87 kx250 i had


Posted by: Nevada Sixx---------------------

when you said the plug was 'wet",, do you mean with black oil? or did it look like water?
you may want to repack the silencer and clean out the choke on the carb. a clymer manual is helpful for a bike too.


Posted by: ACGUY---------------------

I ran thru a problem just like that on an old RM 250, which ended up being a weak ignition. Stator fixed it. No matter what jets, or other combination I had, it still ran bad. Mine was hard to start too. If yours is not hard to start, perhaps another problem like high float level. The float needle in the old bikes gets a ring around the rubber tip, which makes the float travel higher, and extra fuel gets in the motor, and adjustments don't seem to help any. Try lowering your float, and see what happens. It is a low cost effort instead of replacing parts.


Posted by: briora---------------------

still can't figure it out. so i'll try to list more symptoms hard to start, although with the clip moved up one it will niw start in 5-7 kicks instead of 20. smokes alot when fist started, may be normal don,t know. Hardly smokes at all when warm. Runs good for first 5 minutes then starts to run terrible. Make a loud snap backfire sound when it does start. bogs and can't get out of it's own way when warmed up. I have checked out everyones recommendations on carbs and jetting, but wouldn,t it run bad from the start if it was a fuel problem, plug is a dark brown. checked reeds there ok. mixing 40:1, ......Stumped? poor kid just got the bike and can't ride it. we test drove it and it was fine, but we diddn't ride it long enough for the prolems to kick in. Image a grown man taking avantage of a kid like that by screwing him with this bike. they made a trade and the guy already sold the bike my son traded him so he can't swao back, I appreciate anyone who can help us by taking time to figure it out, 2 strokes are all new to me I ride an xr.


Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

Don't change your ratio to 'fix' a jetting problem...which is likely what you have.

I just sped red the posts...but you mentioned at first not being familiar with pilot/main jets ARE, so don't imagine you know what they are.

Take the fuel bowl off. The main jet is obvious..the pilot is in a recessed hole right in FRONT of the main. Check 'em both. Get the numbers off of 'em and post what they are.

Changing to boyesens commonly calls for a slightly leaner jet-set. Your situation got worse with those installed.

Check:

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net

...for basic jetting info.

...but, post what you got to start with.


Posted by: JasonWho---------------------

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Posted by: briora---------------------

thanks jasonwho,
i dont think its the reeds, or fuel mixing anymore... i have done everything to the reeds. i even tried putting the stock ones back in, didn't work. the boyeson reeds are only a few weks old(so he says.) but i wont blelieve all his b/s no more...i am really getting fusterated with this bike. i traded this guy an 86 XR 600 because i wanted to go 2 stroke. then after i traded someone called to buy it like saturday(8/10/02). and now i jsut found an 86 KX250 for sale and i rather have that than a bike full of problems. so i dont know what to do. i am thinking about doing the whole top end job(amybe/ maybe not). let me know what everyone thinks!!! thanks, joel


Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

briora:
I don't see any responses from you in reference to how the bike is jetted.

What am I missing? The most likely problem is jetting, but it isn't being looked into?

If one type of leaner change (dropping the needle) makes a noticeable improvement on the bike, how about the others? (pilot and main).

Rejet to CDave's site spec. Clean the air filter. Put in a new plug.

What happens?

Doing the top-end to fix what could be a jetting problem...without knowing what the carb is set to now is, well...silly.

Yeah...you COULD have a compression problem, but you need to start with how the carb is set up.


Posted by: briora---------------------

Well guys, still no luck. I checked into every suggestion. The jets are stock for the 84 kdx 200 size has not changed. Every piece of the carb has been taken apart and cleaned. air filter is clean, exaust looks good, even tried putting old pipe back on. After all this it still does the same thing. when first startd runs good and has some balls for about 4-5 minutes. Then loses its power. climb a small hill and you'll be lucky to get up. give it gas to try and get it going and the idle never gets up to having any power. Totally stumped.
Took apart the top end, piston looked a little worn (fine wear lines) even brought cylinder and piston to a local cert kawasaki mechanic and he said they are a little worn, but he has seen a lot worse. And it's not bad enough to be causing the type of problem i'm having. Although I question this guy because I have had problems with him in the past. But 2 strokes are new to me and I wanted an opinion. So I bought a compression tester and it read about 75. But I don't know if thats low, and if it is what makes it low. and would low compression make the bike lose all it power after running good for 5 minutes.
Thanks for all your help
Bri


Posted by: woodsy---------------------

Bri:
75 pds is way low for a cold motor compression check. Make sure that your tester is seated good at the plug hole, kick you bike over several times to build up the pressure on the guage - if it will not pump above 75 pds you have found at least one of your problems!
You may what to read back in the suggestions and discover that this whole top end thing was brought up by yours truley in the first place. The reason why I suggested this cause was because when an engine warms up the cylinder expands and any exsessive piston to cylinder tolerances are worsened by the by this!! I am sure that you dont have a dialbore guage to check this tolerance but a new bore should be no more then 3 thousands difference and wear limit that I like to run on my 2 strokers is 6.. If you take the rings off your piston, clean the jug and piston real good with mineral spirits put the piston back in the jug and check the gap between the two with a feeler guage you can come up with an idea of how much wear there is there. This will not however give you taper or oblong check.
I will say it again (although I realise that I am the only one here going this direction - thats ok though - ol woodsy is used to going against the crowd hahaha), I think you are now on the right track!! Find out where your low compression is at and your bike will perform like it is suppose to (after you get your jetting back to normal)!
Good luck!
Woodsy


Posted by: briora---------------------

Woody,
Thanks for the quick reply, can always count on you. When I came up with the 75 that was after 1 kick, I wasn't sure how I was supposed to test it. Just went out and did it again but 7-8 kicks this time, it built up more after every kick and started capping out around 140. did I do it right this time?


Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

Did you hold the throttle wide open? You should.

140 is fine. You might get there with fewer kicks @ WOT.

Clean air filter, too (you already did that).

You're earlier comments re: ok cold, bad warm.

The warmer it gets, the leaner the jetting needs to be. Still, "climb a small hill and you'll be lucky to get up" is a severe issue. Jetting being off isn't going to be THAT large an issue.

Still, I'd like to see the NUMBERS of the jets you've got. Needle, too.


Posted by: Y2Z---------------------

your gonna blow your engine! u gotta put at least 20:1 mix ratio in that gas


Posted by: briora---------------------

jets are stock at 280 & 35, plug is a good tan/ brown and still pretty clean, a little darker in one spot but not much but when I pull it out it's a little wet. The wet looks kinda clear like the mixed gas. I think the bike still smokes a little more than it should, but not sure it's our first 2 stroke. The smoke is whte in case that matters to anyone. anything else you need to know just ask i'll look for it. I am desperate to get this thing running for my son.


Posted by: jboomer---------------------

You also need to be sure to hold the throttle wide open when you are kicking for the compression test. I don't know what difference this makes, but something I've always been told and always done. 140 isn't a bad compression though. maybe a little low. Everyone else may have a different opinion, but a new set of rings probably wouldn't hurt. They're only a few bucks.


Posted by: woodsy---------------------

Bri: Know your talking - agree 100% with the previous input on 140 good!! Sounds like topend probs are eliminated! Now I would relook at this previous suggestion:

I ran thru a problem just like that on an old RM 250, which ended up being a weak ignition. Stator fixed it. No matter what jets, or other combination I had, it still ran bad. Mine was hard to start too. If yours is not hard to start, perhaps another problem like high float level. The float needle in the old bikes gets a ring around the rubber tip, which makes the float travel higher, and extra fuel gets in the motor, and adjustments don't seem to help any. Try lowering your float, and see what happens. It is a low cost effort instead of replacing parts.
You could very possibly be seeing a weak high speed coil on your stator!! I am sure that any Kaw dealer could look up the resistance check for that coil. Check it with an ohm meter cold and again when the bike warms up!! It may be as simple as unpluging the CDI box and checking the terminals there (dont take the cover off the flywheel if you dont have to!! Have boughten that repair manual yet? They are worth their weight in 2 stroke oil for stuff like this (wiring/specs ect..). You might want to beg/borrow/steal one asap..
Keep looking - DONT GIVE UP - eliminate the prospects one at a time and you WILL find out what is wrong!
Best of luck
Woodsy


Posted by: Gladiator---------------------

Dude, This happened to me on my 1993 KDX250. I finally diagnosed it when my ignitor completly died. It was slowly going bad and the bike was giving me all kinds of problems. Always had spark so I am glad it fianly died and all of a sudden the ike had no spark. a new cdi and undoing some of the jetting I tried wa all it needed. Good Luck.


Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

Something is gettting missed in a big 280 kind'a way, here.

1. WOT on compression test.

You bet. The point is to determine how well the engine compresses the intake charge....NOT how much air you can squeek past a closed slide! Open it up!

2. (shoulda been #1) 280!!! main???

This has to be a mistake!!! Tell me it's a typo.

From CDave's site:
Quote:
1989 to 1994 KDX200

Stock -Run the stock R1172N jet needle in the second from the top clip position, 48 pilot jet, 155 main jet and fine-tune the pilot circuit using the air screw.


Even WITH a typo (if it is a 180, not a 280)...your carb is way out in left field. The pilot is also so far out of whack...it's a wonder the thing runs at all!!!

BTW...on the 'running' part. You described the bike as 'not being able to get out of it's own way' (as I recall...didn't go back to page 1 to check). Is it 4-stroking when this is going on? Blubbering and smoking?

Plug color really doesn't have much to do with anything except when used with a WOT plug/chop test. Doesn't seem that's happening, yet.

I go back to when you leaned the needle (dropped it), and things improved. You've got to, absolutely must, please!! get the jetting sorted out!!

Yes, by all means keep at this problem. It's fixable. Don't despair over it, keep at it (as woodsy said) and you'll get it.

But DO read the suggestions. IF the 280 number is correct...this could have been resolved a long time ago!

Please repost with the numbers of the jets you have (no typos twice, please ). If your numbers are correct...get the jets CDave recommends. Change 'em. Let us know what the result is.

3. 20:1? Was that a joke? 32:1 is generous, plentiful. 40:1 is good to go unless you are SEVERELY screaming this bike (constant pinned throttle, sea level, big-time load.....like on the dunes maybe).

4. I'm sure there is a #4...but...what was it???


Posted by: briora---------------------

Canyncarvr, wooodsy & all have have been helping me, I really appreciate all your help. It's great to have a resource like this and if we keep at it maybe, just maybe we can fix this thing.
As far as the jets go, remember this a 1984 bike and on the just kdx tech tips it lists the proper jets at 280 main & 35 pilot, it may sound strange but thats what its supposed to be. As far as 4 stroking it and blubbering and smoking, no. The revs just don't get up there, you give it more gas and the revs barely increase they stay real low, Again it will crank up a hill and have tremendous power you could even get the front off the ground when it's first running. Looses everything when it gets hot.The repair manual is ordered but won't be here for a while. I would like to test the ignition like woodsy recomends but not sure how to do, I do have a tester I could borrow to do it but again not sure how
Thanks
Bri


Posted by: briora---------------------

also did wot compression came in at 130


Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

My humble apologies. Summore? A double barreled post due to edit...


Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

My humble apologies. Seems I'm the one not reading too goot.
No excuses. I even went back to the 1st page to check the year!!

Sheesh...

CONSIDER the source, 'eh?

Fredette says:
Quote:
The carburetor jetting should be as follows: 1983, 150 Main jet; 1984-85, 35 pilot and 280 main jet.



If it's not 4-stroking when it's doing this 'running bad' stuff...howabout something completely different?

Are the brakes hot when this happens? Could they be sticking? Does the bike push in neutral ok when it's acting like this?

I thought THAT one up in the shower this morning. See!...even if my thinking is wrong (the year), at least I'm thinking!!!

I don't think the static resistance of the coil would tell you a whole lot. For a reference, maybe...the '00 exciter is listed as 250-370ohms...then they say that's with the meter set to X100. 2.5kohms? Sounds high to me. If you can't get the info from someone in the meantime, the manual will tell you where the connector is you can check that. You could take off the engine cover to see what color the wires are coming from the exciter. Follow those to a connector suitable for sticking some meter leads in.

Still..what if the brakes are sticking? I'd think you'd smell that....

This'll get fixed. Stick with it!


Posted by: briora---------------------

It's funny you say that, I said to my son the first day he got it, you should check thode back brakes they are wicked hot! He doesn't have any back break right now. But we just talked about and were thinking after it dies on us. Itwon't start back up for a while, and if it were the brakes it would always start back up I would imagine? Clever thought anyway. I think testing ohms is out of the question for me until I get a manual, I'm not even sure what this bike has: cdi, coil, don't know so I won't pretend that I do. I wish I did know what it had, we have a good dirtbike salvage yard nearby and I could go get a few electronics and try it I do almost anything at this point. If I can't fix it soon it'll be heading the bone yard. I'd hate to trow the money away that I'd hate to throw the money away that I just paid for the bike but this is getting rediculas. Just frustrated I guess.


Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

No back brake now...cuz?????

Should never have been 'wicked hot' with the amount of riding you've done.

Is this a drum? Why no back brake, 'now'. It went away? Used to be ok? Put the thing on blocks, and the rear wheel spins freely?

Again...does it PUSH easy (in neutral) when it's running 'wicked bad'?

An anecdote (to no particular end)..my riding buddy and I had just finished a bit of screaming downhill/tight stuff. He looked at his rear rotor, said, 'Look how BLUE my rotor is!' ...and then he touched it.

Ha! 'Wicked hot' indeed!!!!

The hard to start part could be unrelated. Can 'we' stick with just this one thing.

I wanna hear about these brakes........

Have a cold one. Relax. It will get resolved.


Posted by: briora---------------------

Having a cold one right now. -uuummm good. The back brakes never really worked since we got the bike a couple of weeks ago. It does push easy when in neutral, and we had to push it alot! I asked the kid to check those brakes when first got the bike and I told him they were hot, Well I guess he rather play video games than fix his bike, since he knows dad will do it anyway. Lazy kid wait till he reads this!


Posted by: JasonWho---------------------

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Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

If I'm more a hindrance than anything else...tell me to bugger off...

BUT..
Sorry, I still don't follow. If the rear brakes 'never really worked', how'd they get 'wicked hot'?

Jason:
Do you have exciter coil resistance specs for this bike (whatever year it is )?? C'mon..don't hold back...just FIX this thing!!


And I'm still wondering about the 'white smoke' comment, too! IF it was leaking that much coolant, it wouldn't be a brown plug he'd be looking at.

Is it LOSING any coolant?

Cripes! I need a beer..........


Posted by: woodsy---------------------

Bri: OK lets try this.. You cannot just take the stator cover off, follow the wires and check the color coded wire coming from the ignitor and expect to resolve anything.. Diagnostics simply do not work like that. You have to eliminate problems one at a time until the bike is fixed.
The specs/wiring diagrams that come in your manual will serve as a road map. Think about that. If you were to leave on a trip to the other side of the country and had NO idea where the other side of the country even was much less which corners to turn right or left on to get there, how far would you have to drive before you would be lost? That is exactly what is going on!!
When you get your manual it will say somethng like "ignitor coil tolerance 200 ohms + or - 50 ohms. Then it will show you by diagram or by explaination which terminal (place where wires hook together or into a device) to check for that reading and which 2 wires to attach your tester to - if you test the wrong to leads, you WILL get the wrong reading! This sequence has to be followed precisely or you will get erroneous readings and we all know that is not good!! Remember that if your road map is mis read you could end up in Jersey instead of California!!!
You simply follow the spec sheet and check stuff one item at a time and all will work out!!
The reason I said that you will have to check spec hot and cold is because you are having an intermittent problem. If there are folks out there who dont understand that HEAT has a way of changing perameters I am sorry - but it does!! Current flow (electrical) produces heat and some times it is just enough to cause the type of situation you are experiencing!! Dont get to upset with your bike - remember it is just a machine - IF MAN CAN BUILD IT AND MAN CAN BREAK IT, MAN CAN FIX IT!!!
I am sorry that your son had to expereince this with his bike but maybe both of you will learn some really positive things thru all this!! One of those things would be: when going to buy something like a used bike, take someone along who you trust will give you an HONEST opinion about it BEFORE you buy it - then listen to him!!!
At minimun come to a forum like this and ask lots of questins FIRST.. If things are not what they should be - walk away from the deal until you have it sorted out... I am personally on my way right now to look at a 91 KDX250. I have YEARS of riding and working on them experience but, if you look on the JUST KDX sight you will see that I asked for info about that perticular bike!!
I think it is a wonderful era this days!!! We can help each other from one side of the planet to the other!! That, my friend is what life is all about!!!
KEEP YOUR CHIN UP AND WE WILL FIX IT!!!!!
Woodsy


Posted by: JasonWho---------------------

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Posted by: HUSKwKDX---------------------

Quote by C-Carvr:
"And I'm still wondering about the 'white smoke' comment, too! IF it was leaking that much coolant, it wouldn't be a brown plug he'd be looking at.

Is it LOSING any coolant?"

I'm 'gonna take a shot in the dark here ... but would a '84 have any coolant or a radiator?


Posted by: briora---------------------

Thanks guys,
No one here is a hindrance, I look foward to hearing from all of you as you can probably tell this thing is consuming me and causing to consume more beer. I am constantly checking this thread for your ideas. Canyn. I'll loof more into the brake thing, but at this point I think it's secdondary, but what the hell do I know. As far as coolant and the smoke, this bike has no radiator it is air cooled. When he takes off you can smell the fuel lingering in the air, this normal for a 2 stroke? Until my manual arrives should I try lowering the floats maybe? or putting the clip up one more notch to the top one ( I'm a little nervous to do any damage) We did check the bike well but unfortunately the problems comes after some time riding, we didn't get to test drive for the 5-10 minutes it takes to create the problem.
I will ship a case of those cold ones (if thats even legal) , to the one who finds my problem. HA you will need it!
Bri


Posted by: briora---------------------

I am going to look at another kdx200 tonight a 1985, supposedly it is in mint shape, if so maybe i'll pick up that one and keep this for parts they are basicly twins. Just hate to shell out the 800. bucks if this one only has a loose wire or something.


Posted by: JasonWho---------------------

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Posted by: briora---------------------

well now I did it while fooling around trying to get it running right this weekend my kickstart won't return anymore! I guess the return spring is broken, I gotta bring it back manually. I've been doing alot of kicking lately. It wouldn't be related to my real problem would it? Return spring hard to replace?
Bri


Posted by: briora---------------------

i


Posted by: pdq---------------------

Briora:
Maybe your problem is not fuel or compression. I had a similar problem with my
85 kdx! It started and ran ok cold but after 5-10 min. It ran like S_it! I played
around with the carb forever,and was ready to roll the bike off a cliff..$^?*&^%&^!!!!
The problem I found was the CD ignition box was malfunctioning when it got hot.
It is mounted under the gas tank (and only 1" from the hot exhaust pipe"!! try swapping
this part. You could also try temporarlly duck taping it to a"cooler"side of the tank
to see if this helps.Allso I made up a heat shield to reflect some heat from this
component hoping this will prolong its life?
Hope this is of some help. Good luck.


Posted by: ACGUY---------------------

Briora,
Sometimes a weak ignition stator can break down when the motor warms up. A cold stator would read good resistance, and if it changes significantly when the motor is hot, that may be your problem. I had a bad stator on a old XR250 once, and it ran great until it warmed up.

Also, regarding jets..... Sometimes folks like to run wires thru them to clean em, and they make the orifices larger than they should be. My point is that even if you read a number on a jet, it still may be enlarged or drilled out if you know what I mean.

If you have gone thru the carb like you said you did, then I would say look elsewhere like ignition, etc.....

Don't give up..... You will get it.

BOb


Posted by: briora---------------------

Alright guys I'm down to the assumption it's the stator or the CDI. I took of the flywheel today and took out the stator and this is what I saw;
one of the 4 contacts where the magnet runs against was very well coated in a rusty film. The wires just before the stator have lost a little of there insulation, perhaps from the flywheel rubbing ( although when the flywheel was on the bike I noticed no play?) So my question is could this be the magical problem? Would it make my bike run bad ONLY after it was hot if the wires were bare? Should I try to tape them up or just buy a new stator. Trying to get this done without spending a fortune.


Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

What about trying to swap CDI units from the other bike? Like jason said? Buy THAT guy a rack of cold ones for his trouble.

IMO and all, but if it's a choice of one or the other, I'd vote for the box as opposed to the stator.

If you're going to try to insulate something already connected, use some RTV. If possible (it would have to be disconnected) use heat shrink. Electrical tape comes in a wide variety of types and qualities..most of it isn't worth diddle. 3M makes a tape (super 88) that's pretty good stuff. The one-each black vinyl tape from your local department store is likely useless.

And even with a good tape, its application is important. They make a cold shrink tape (for already connected stuff)...but it's pretty spendy.


Posted by: briora---------------------

Didn't buy that other bike. I have nothing to switch it with. I am trying to fix the strator now, I'll let you know if it helps.
Bri


Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

Even if you didn't buy it, the guy might want to 'make a case of beer' by letting you use his sparkbox for 15 minutes. Probably go over there with your bike and plan to go on a ride real quick so he won't wonder where you are for a week...

Fixing up any questionable connections/wires is probably smart in any case..might as well do that first. THEN...(if you've priced a control unit), a case of beer is a good price to find out fer sure if that's it....or not.

Good luck! You're going to be happy when this is figgered, huh??


Posted by: 23jayhawk---------------------

This is kind of a last ditch approach, but take off the seat & start your bike. Run it around the yard/street, whatever, until it starts getting jiggy again. Shut it down & pour a bucket of ice water over the CDI box. Wait a few seconds, then see if it helps the situation. Don't let the water run into the airbox. Once had a Boss Mustang with a Mallory CDI ignition (back in the day), and when the box went bad it did just what you're describing. Would barely start, then puke/sputter/backfire, etc. - ran like it had no compression.

BTW, this thread is more evidence this board is the best thing on the 'net.


Posted by: JasonWho---------------------

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Posted by: briora---------------------

Jason,
Did your CDI feel hot, or at least warm. After I ran till it went bad I felt the CDI it didn't feel the least bit worn. BTW fiwing the stator wires didn't help. Have a guy who will get me a new one for 75.00 is that a good deal?
Bri


Posted by: JasonWho---------------------

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Posted by: Gladiator---------------------

I was having similar problems. Then My bike fianly died and lost all spark. I tested the resistance in everything. The CDI was the only part that did not spec out. I ordered a new one. Installed it 9 days later. Still no spark. How could this be I thought? Well I decided to pull the flywheel. The wh/r lead had worn through the insulation. It was arcing out and slowly destroyed one of the small coils of wire. What a bummer. I have a freind that is electonics guru and he is rewinding and repairing it. I hope it works. If you have the same problem you could send it to:

http://www.rickystator.com/

Good Luck


Posted by: Moose95---------------------

Briora,
It's been a while since you posted any progress on your situation, where are you at right now? Did you figure out the problem? Don't give up! :thumb:


Posted by: briora---------------------

Haven't touched it in about a week, but earlier i did mention that my stator wires wt/r where worn through the insulation just like gladiator, fixed that but still not right. I'm thinking it was arching and caused a problem with the stator. I will try replacing it at the end of this week. I think this might be it!


Posted by: Gladiator---------------------

Just to let you guys know. I tried re-winding the exciter coil on my stator. It did give me spark but not enough. I just cant get the windings tight and neat enough. I have a guy giving me a '92 kx250 stator. My bike is '93 kdx250 so the ignition should be the same. I am hoping the exciter coil is the same. I am going to try and use it. If not, I am going to break down and buy a new one.


Posted by: Moose95---------------------

Keep at it Briora, way to slug away at that beast!!


Posted by: Glitch---------------------

What about the main engine seals, the ones around the the crankshaft. Maybe the one on the left side is leaking and letting hot air into the premix chamber. The bike would run fine cold, but once the stator compartment became hot, it would cause your bike to run bad. Just a thought.
Jim



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