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Torque Wrenches

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Posted by: jaypro55---------------------

Well for me the hardcore part of the riding season is coming to an end. Football starts next week, 2 practices a day for the next two weeks, then school . So I'll be pretty much beat to death the next two weeks, then once school is in, I've only got one or so days a week to moto, and I'll be taking it easy, can't afford to get hurt in season. Anyways long story short, I'm going to do some major cleaning, polishing, and shining tomorrow and that got me thinking that I'm going to need to get a torque wrench before I have to do any major work.

I was checking them out at Sears last time I was there. I don't really think I need the $70 or $100 ones. I just want something that can let me get the torque specs on the important bolts(IE headbolts and such). I was checking this one online today.

http://www.sears.com/sr/product/sum...pid=00944642000

It's only $20, very affordable, but 1: will it be able to read up to any torque I need to reach, and 2: will it not be chinsy and will it last like all the other Craftsman tools we have. I'm not going to get anything right away, I'd say more around Christmas time so I just wanted some opinions. Thanks.


Posted by: Moto Squid---------------------

Those beam torque wrenches IMO aren't any good, except for a very broad guess at any given torque. The adjustable click types are by far the best. I have a Snap-On one and it was a fine addition to my tool box. But buying it burned a hole through my wallet

http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/Produ...=snapon%2Dstore

Check out their site

You probably won't go with a Snap-On because of the price but there are other companies that make more wallet friendly click torque wrenches. A clicker is defiently worth the additional money, all those unsnaped bolts will thank you

One last thing, if you want to impress EVERYONE get the snap-on digital torque wrench...they are awesome


Posted by: jaypro55---------------------

Thanks for your suggestion. I figured the beam ones certainly were inferior, but anything is better than guessing. WOW the Snap-On ones are awesome looking, but pricey pricey pricey. I'm on a teenage budget haha, but I want the job done right. Still think I could get by with the beam type? Or could I find a good clicker for around $50?


Posted by: sngltrk---------------------

I saw a click type torque wrench at Advanved Auto. I don't remember exactly how much it was, I do remember it was alot less than the click type 3/8" wrench I bought from Sears a few years ago. If you don't have an Advanced Auto by you try http://www.partsamerica.com/default.asp


Posted by: jaypro55---------------------

Tthanks sng, I do have an Advance Auto real close to my bike shop actually. I like the micrometer type one they have for $45.00 there. It seems like a good buy. Next time I'm around there I'll check it out in person.


Posted by: Jaybird---------------------

You can certainly get by with a beam type torque wrench. You just have to do as the instructions tell you too and use it correctly. If you are worried about money, go with the Craftsman beam...a chinese clicker is NOT worth wasting your money on. If you feel you just absolutely need a clicker, go with the Craftsman or the Snap-on. Relieve the pressure on either of them when you are finished each time.


Posted by: OKKX'er---------------------

With my mechanic skills, a torque wrench is a piece of the all-important safety gear. Your bike will be better off. I was waaay over-tightening fork clamp bolts.


Posted by: jaypro55---------------------

My dad is a real stickler for American made tools and I can't say any Craftsman tool being cheap. Actually I would see a clicker type breaking before a beam type since a beam is straight leverage. I think I'll have to further check into the Craftsman beam.


Posted by: Jonny426---------------------

Beam type torque wrenches can be plenty accurate if you read and follow the instructions. I have both clicker and beam wrenches, the clickers are easy & fast to use but some things(like rotational drag) are so much easier with a beam type. Don't use either one as a breaker bar(I've seen it) and store it properly.If the indicator rod gets bent on a beam style,it's time for a new one.


Posted by: jaypro55---------------------

Yeah, thanks for all the advice. Right now I'm leaning towards the beam...I don't know yet of course.


Posted by: DENNY---------------------

I calibrate torque wrenches for a living and some times I see as many as 100 a month from 5 manufacturers. I personnally would never use a snap type on the head bolts of any of my bikes. I adjust snap type torque wrenches every time I see them because most people do not know how to use the snap type. My personal favorite is a Dial type with a dial indicator display and a peak indicator. Snap-On "TE" series or a CDI "D" series are good examples but I'm sure Craftsman sell simular units. The most important point when buying any torque wrench is the wrench comes with a calibration certificate from the manufacturer. Many bargain wrenches save money by skipping the calibration of a new wrench and the user has no idea if the scale is correct.

Just my 2 cents!


Posted by: CPT Jack---------------------

you'll notice that you can get them in a variety of ratings - I've used as light as 9 ft-lb's and as high as 80 ft-lbs (rear axle). mostly you'll be b/w 15 & 30 ft-lbs. Mine's a Craftsman 1/4 in. I have to always use a 3/8's adaptor & will probably by a 3/8's next time around. BTW - I LOVE my Torque Wrench. I used to be frightenly bad about twisting off bolts but have now developed a pretty good feel for snugging 'em up.

I've read that you'll be more accurate if you grease the bolt you're torquing w/ the reasoning being that if it's dry, it'll offer up resistance. Anyone want to confirm/deny this? In other words are torque values meant for "dry bolts"? Or maybe the difference is negligible.


Posted by: kciH---------------------

IF you're going to go with the Craftsman, I'd get the beam type or the top of the line Digi-Torque model. I had two of the $70-80 units that where clickers that where lost out of a trailer, along with $2k worth of other tools, I don't miss them. They have a markings on the body and you turn a collar to line it up with the amount of torque you want. After using them for awhile the collar doesn't line up properly with the marking and you have no confidence in the setting being correct. Sure you can get them recalibrated by Sears free for a year, but who wants to let them have your tool for 6-8 weeks every 6-8 weeks? It is my opinion that the beam type would be superior to the clickers I mentioned. The Digi-Torque works great, but it cost about $100


Posted by: Rich Rohrich---------------------

Quote:
Originally posted by CPT Jack
I've read that you'll be more accurate if you grease the bolt you're torquing w/ the reasoning being that if it's dry, it'll offer up resistance. Anyone want to confirm/deny this? In other words are torque values meant for "dry bolts"? Or maybe the difference is negligible.



The difference is FAR from negligible. The problem stems from the fact that moly lubes, motor oil, thread cutting fluids, grease and dry will all stress a fastenter to a different degree at the same torque value on a wrench. Your best bet is to check the service manual to see if they give any indication of whether a bolt should be lubed or not at a specific torque value.

Two things are certain:

(1) - fasteners MUST be clean (freee of rust, scale and debris) to have any hope of getting a useful reading
(2) - I wouldn't give $50 for a BARREL full of chinese click torque wrenches :D

If you don't have a lot of money to spend buy a name brand beam wrench, learn to use it, and treat it like the delicate instrument that it is.


Posted by: jaypro55---------------------

Thanks guys. I'm pretty sure I'm going to shop around but I think I wanna go with a beam-type still. But thanks for all the advice and suggestions.


Posted by: smb_racing---------------------

the only thing I have to offer to the discussion is how hard it is to torque something in an odd location (i.e. on a car) and read the scale on a beam wrench, I have one of the beam type and a craftsman clicker type, the craftsman is a far superior wrench and I use it for most everything, it's easier to use because it has a ratchet action and you can torque left hand threaded bolts too. Just my $.02


Posted by: Durt Cycler---------------------

Jaypro, you can do what I did and search www.ebay.com for a torque wrench. I found a good clicker for $40 brand new.


Posted by: WoodsRider---------------------

A given fasteners torque rating is calculated to be 75% of it's proof load (point at which the material yields). This offers a 25% safety factor.

Specified torque values are for clean, dry threads with no rust, as Rich pointed out. There are different calculations to use for reducing the torque value depending on the type of thread lubricant used. Generally speaking for motor oil, reduce the torque value by 10%. For anti-seize, reduce the torque value by 40%.


Posted by: KDX220rm---------------------

Advance Auto has a 3/8" drive snap one for around 30.00, its not like my 85.00 SK torque wrench



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