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Posted by: claudio salusso---------------------
Dropped the bike enough times to finally brake the shaft of the gear lever. The lever -shifter?- is fine, but the shaft is broken with just about 1 inch coming out from the case. I will need to take apart the entire engine to change the shaft, that is, take the cylinder out and separate the crankcase. Question: has anyone done this job at home? Any feedback will help.
Thanks
Posted by: jdbrusch---------------------
I am not sure but you maybe able to change the shifter shaft without taking the entire motor apart,Its been a long time since I owned a XR.Remove the right case and the shift shaft may simply pull out,all you may have to do is buy a new shaft and gaskets.You may have to remove the clutch basket also depending on clearance.Good luck.
Posted by: Danman---------------------
I did one on my DR. Broke on the inside. I was able to pull the right side cover and remove the all the broken bits. I took the lever off the shaft and then just slide it right out. Realy very painless. I proably took about an hour. It was a clean break were it actuates the shifter drum. Also, you might want to get a manual and a gasket incase you tear the old one getting things off.
Good luck.
Posted by: Highbeam---------------------
I believe you are right that you will need to split the cases. The big XRs have a short shift shaft. Let us know. The splines on my shaft are getting weaker every ride and I fear I may need to replace this shaft just for the stupid splines. Good thing you didn't break the shaft off inside the engine so that all of your oil drained out.
Posted by: Rodzilla---------------------
Claudio,
I did this job last year, I am an average mechanic. Not a specialist by any means. The job is actually quite easy, if you take your time.
Yes you will have to split the cases, and take everything, I mean everything apart to do this right. I think the shift shaft is part #1 Honda starts with 
I would really recommend getting the Honda manual , (the real shop manual not a Clymer) it is indespensible.
All told it took me about 3 evenings to do it.
I'm pasting in some info I posted when I did this:
Yes you can do this job, it's pretty straight forward if you have a little mech. ability, and the shop manual.
Do the "mark every bolt" thing, either put it in a ziploc or use 35mm film cannisters.
I also marked the page in the manual it is located. I also took some cardboard and drew pictures of the part then marked where each bolt went starting a #1 then going clockwise around the part, cut slits in the cardboard to stick the bolts in. That way the same bolt goes back where it came from
(did this for valve cover, clutch cover and left side of the case)
There are a few little parts, watch for the spring and pin under the camshaft! it's tiny, and there's a few dowels you don't want to loose.
The gaskets are a pain!, I used a ton of gasket remover but be very careful as the gasket remover will eat the paint on the magnesium side covers! It took me almost as long to remove the old gaskets as splitting the cases!
You will need to pull the clutch side of the motor off, the tranny separates through the clutch side of the cases. You don't have to pull the flywheel /stator off, leave it in place. You will need a torque wrench that goes up to 94 ft/lbs to retorque the clutch basket. Mine only goes to 80 ft./lbs.
Be careful when you replace the head cover bolts they snap easy, just snug them up. Trust me on this.
Here is what you'll need: you can get part #'s by going to powersportspro.com (but they are a little high price wise)
Upper and lower gasket sets (found them for around $160)
New shift shaft
New shift shaft seal (a pain to get off)
new piston rings
May want to put in a new clutch pack while you're there
8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 17mm, 24mm and 27mm sockets
an impact wrench is nice too!
If you decide to pull the flywheel you'll need a tool, but removal isn't needed.
The manual says you need a clutch holder tool, I stuck a couple of wood blocks under the piston to keep it from moving, and popped the nut off using an impact wrench, worked fine.
Be careful and don't bind up your timing chain against the lip where the chain guide rests, a new chain is around $60-$80 bucks.
You may want to consider a set of stainless valves while you have it apart too. Good idea to install new valve guides (or have it done as you'll need a press) these are a weak point in the Honda engine.
I had great luck with International Cycle (800-582-8646) for parts (you will need to wait on shipping) they were 30%-50% cheaper than my dealer
p.s. my dealer quoted me $600 labor and $300 parts to do this.
I spent $200 on the whole deal ( not including the tools I bought and the "extras" I replaced, Chain slider/roller,new fender etc... All told I'm in around $400)
p.p.s when you have the left side off, at the very bottom of the motor is a bolt (below the oil pump) this holds the metal oil screen in place, take the screen out and clean it (it doesn't tell you this in the manual) there was a bunch of metal shavings in mine.
------
Additions
As I was laying in bed last night a couple of other things popped into my head.
You may want to get a deep well impact socket for the head bolts (4 of them) You may have to use a grinder on the socket to get it to fit into the recessed area.
I tried to get mine out with a regular 12 point socket and started to round them off. Only use a 6 point socket on these if you don't use the impact wrench. If you round these off you'll never get the head off. New bolts are $8 each!!!
Second add this to the list of items you'll need:
The clutch basket is held in place by a 24 or 27mm nut. This nut has a thin metal flange around the top that is "staked" into a groove on the shaft. (they take a punch and indent the flange into a groove on the shaft at the factory) you have to grind or drill this "stake" to get the nut off, naturally you'll need to get a new nut (part number 90236-HA0-000 )
All told the actual "work" from engine removal to reinstall was around 10 hours. (I was meticulous though labeling parts etc... I didn't rush)
I did all the work myself so that slowed things a little when trying to get things lined up at the reinstall but no big deal really. Again the most time consuming theing was gasket removal (yes I'm still hung up on this!)
I spent a lot of time waiting for parts, I could have got them faster locally but saved myself around 50% by shopping around. I've always been a "just go to the dealer and get it guy" but I was amazed at the difference in prices if you shop around!
Rod
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