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DRZ 400S Wheelie???
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Posted by: BellevegasB---------------------

I'm a new rider, so I don't have much experience, but I'm starting to get more comfortable on my DRZ 400S. The other day I gave it a hefty handful of gas in first gear (on the street) and expected a more powerful lunge than I got. I did get the front wheel off the ground, but just barely (I also let off after instead of holding onto the throttle). My question is, does it sound like there's a problem with my bike or is it just that I don't have the skill to ride a wheelie yet? I guess I just pictured the front end effortlessly coming up when I gave it hard gas, and now that I have I'm disappointed. I don't really care if I can ride wheelies, I would just like to know that my bike has enough power to do it.

Posted by: ammomac---------------------

try 'snapping' the throttle on versus a roll on. yes, a DRZ has more than enough power to wheelie.

if our TTr125 can get it up, you should be able to as well

Mac

Posted by: BunduBasher---------------------

The S is very heavy up front, and in stock form does not come up easily, you may have to go to the 13 tooth sprocket up front, open up the airbox, remove end cap insert, and rejet.

Posted by: BellevegasB---------------------

Thanks for the replies. I did just roll on the throttle as stated. I rolled on quickly, but definitely didn't "snap" the throttle. I'm going to continue getting more comfortable on the bike and then I'm sure I'll start adding the mods as you mentioned, BunduBasher. I was just afraid that I got a lemon. The bike is quick as hell to me, but being my only bike I have nothing to compare it to. Thanks again, happy riding!

Posted by: woodsy---------------------

Hey Bell - Move back on the seat a little! Dropping the front sprocket a tooth will also make a major difference (as pre mentioned) and is CHEAP! If all else fails, bring her to me and I will show you how to get that front end up - ANY BIKE IS WHEELIEABLE!!!!!
Woodsy

Posted by: WoWman---------------------

Flick the clutch for a second while revving a bit then dump the clutch. That should work in at least 2nd gear. Gearing down to a 14t or 13t front sprocket would be the cheapest way to make it actually easier to wheelie though.

Posted by: Vytas---------------------

I dropped the front sprocket down one tooth and saw a noticeable difference. I can pull a wheelie in first or second gear. I race a RM250 and expectd the DRZ to have a little moe get up and go. I think that next I will rejet and open up the air box. Maybe a new exhaust system later on. Good luck.

Posted by: Humai---------------------

The DRZ is, to use the nomenclature of the artist known as Woodsy, very "wheelieable". I have personally formally certified the DRZ electric start, with stock gearing, as "wheelieable grade 2" (easy to moderate) in 4th gear on the hard sand without popping the clutch.

You need to work on technique - bounce the front end and time the throttle-on with the frontend bounce. It takes a while to learn but is worth the effort in the end. Your riding buddies will worship the ground you walk on once you develop this skill

Posted by: TexKDX---------------------

Roll vs. snap - the CV carb on your street model won't respond that much differently to the snap. Drop the front sprocket a few teeth and work on your technique. If you weight the front end first and time it with the throttle opening and a little tug of the bars, it should come right up. Do this standing up BTW with your Butt sticking out the back like Annie Fannie in Playboy. Just make sure your friends aren't around and your attempt is prefaced with a six back of Falstaff and a loud "Watch this!!!".

Posted by: Danman---------------------

This link helped me for the technique. I'm not good or anything, but it made it understandable. I just don't practice enough. That bike will do it.

Once you get to the page click on the Wheelie Technique part

the link

good luck

Posted by: Granite---------------------

My S has 13/48 gearing, snorkel removed . . . stock jets and exhaust. I can throttle the front up on street in 2nd. It takes being in the right rpm range. But, it goes up just fine. Wheelies in first are a breeze!

Posted by: cujet---------------------

Tex has a valid point. The CV (constant velocity) carb has a airflow/vacuum controlled slide that regulates and restricts the amount of fuel/air you get. The CV carbs are big enough to make proper HP in the top end, just slow to respond to a whack of the throttle. If you take it apart you will see why, the orifice in the slide is small,,, all the air above the slide (in the diaphram cavity) must go through that hole before it fully opens. This takes time, of course. In the distant past there were kits for CV carbs that helped eliminate the problem of slow response. These kits consisted of a drill bit (to drill out the orifice in the slide) a softer spring (to let the slide raise up easier) and a washer for the needle (to compensate for the higher air flow and lower velocity). These kits often did nothing for top end HP but made the response much better.

Chris

Posted by: MilkJuGGz---------------------

You should be suprised by what happens when you jerk up on the bars (which also makes you lean back) and crack the throttle at the same time; just like how you jerk up on the bars to wheelie a normal bicycle.

IMO this provides a lot more snap than bouncing the front by using the suspension.

Just be prepared to feather the rear brake. It helps if you move your right foot more forward on the peg so you can tap the brake easier when your front wheel is pointing to the sky.

Posted by: TexKDX---------------------

Quote:

Originally posted by MilkJuGGz
You should be suprised by what happens when you jerk up on the bars (which also makes you lean back) and crack the throttle at the same time; just like how you jerk up on the bars to wheelie a normal bicycle.

IMO this provides a lot more snap than bouncing the front by using the suspension.

Really? Compare a 25 pound bike to a 280 pound motorcycle? Did you star in the TV series Incredible Hulk or something?

The forks are compressed from the weight of the bike and rider about 2-3 inches, the "sag". You have no choice but to use the suspension when pulling the front end off the ground.

It is all in the direction the weight is moving. Get it moving up, then the engine will keep it moving up. I can wheelie several of my bikes without ever changing the throttle opening by using the terrain, body position, and body/bike movement. Can you?

Posted by: woodsy---------------------

Well Bell did you get that front end up yet? My offer still stands!
Woodsy

Posted by: KdxChode---------------------

I can do pretty good wheelies on my brothers 400e. It does take a little practice at first but can be done pretty easily. i ride a KDX 220, with the two stroke all ya got to do is blip the throttle so I was a little suprised when i first got on the DRZ. You do have to plan the wheelie and choose the technique that is right for you to get the front end up. Once it's up there the smooth power makes it easy to ride out.

Posted by: BellevegasB---------------------

Hey all,

Thanks for your replies. I have to confess, I've messed with it some since, but haven't pulled it off yet. I'm still not confident enough to ride it out. I'll either try next time I go off-road, or once I'm more confident on the bike. I have used some of the techniques you all mentioned though, and have noticed that the wheel would've come up much easier than before (if I had the balls to ride it out, which I haven't yet!). My main concern was that there was something wrong with the bike that I should get checked out while it's still under warranty. Since there's not, I'll just keep practicing, and maybe, someday, I'll actually ride a wheelie! Thanks!

Posted by: The^^Rock---------------------

This has some good tips.....taught me to wheelie

http://www.cbr600f4.com/secondary_pages/phuzzy1.html

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DRZ 400S Wheelie???

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