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1984 Honda XL200R
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Posted by: Live2Ride300---------------------
I have a 1984 Honda XL200R, we put new piston rings, valves and stem seals, cam chain, cam sprocket, clutch and probably a few other things im forgetting. I had the bike running good for about 2 days, when it stalled, and we couldnt get it running again. It has spark, but maybe the spark is too weak? It has fuel, and good compression, im puzzled as to what the problem is, and would really like to get this bike running, thanx for any help, its greatly appreciated.
Charlie
Posted by: SFO---------------------
It would be a good time to retorque the head, adjust the valves, and inspect your cam timing and ignition timing.
Maybe something came loose?
Posted by: Jon K.---------------------
I have had rare instances of the primary coil going bad on XR motors. This is the coil that lives under the flywheel. This condition would result in weak or no spark, but these engines never produced a really hot spark anyway, so kinda hard to tell.
Oh wait! Is the 84 model the dual carb model? Naaahhhh. . . . there can't be any of those left eh? If so you may have the last running example!
Posted by: OnAnySunday---------------------
WFO , you're thinking of the XR's.
The XL200r never had the RFVC engine.
Posted by: Live2Ride300---------------------
No, its not a dual carb model. Ya theres a big difference between the XRs and XLs. Im guessing the problem is electrical, im going to bring the bike to my local shop and have him look at it.
Posted by: ktmracer---------------------
i don't believe that the xr200r had the rfvc head either. i could be mistaken though.
Posted by: Jon K.---------------------
81, 82, 83 XR200r had a 2-valve head. 84, 85 had a four-valve RFVC head. In '86 Honda regained their sanity and went back to the good (two-valve) engine. Then they started screwing up the chassis. IMHO the 81, 82, 83 model is one of the best bikes of all time.
Obviously none of this applies to the XL.
Back to the original problem; remember that the secondary coil (under the tank) is almost never at fault.
Something you might do is to unplug all the connectors, grease them, and plug them back in. Especially the one on the coil under the tank. Amazing how many electrical problems this will fix.
Posted by: KWJams---------------------
Taking electrical problems to a bike shop may cause excessive salivation. 
A decent shop can milk at least 3-4 hours of labor out of going through the motions wfo 74 mentions.
If you don't have an ohm meter get one and measure the voltage etc.
Chasing electrical problems down can be very frustrating, but there is no reason that has to be expensive.
Posted by: 2stroke---------------------
You should be able to tell..if the spark is nice and fat, or even if its crappy, it should want to kick over. You will get at least a sputter if you have a weak spark. I had an 83 XL 200 that I rebuilt from the ground up and rode for a couple of years.
One thing mine did was it tended to collect rust in the fuel valve, and Id have to clean it out every few rides. As well as I cleaned the tank, it was still scaly inside, and after a while it would clog the petcock. Take the plug out, dump some gas down the hole, put the plug in and try kicking it over. Im guessing youve tried a new plug already? There again if a little thumper fouls a plug in 2 days, youve got other problems, but something to try.
Check also to see if the stator on the pick up didn't work loose. (Up top, under the round cover. ITs just a little bolt that attaches that to the cam, mine came loose once. THen your timing is random-useless.)
and as for the differences between the Xrs and Xls there were not alot, as long as we are speaking of non RFVC Xr's anyway. 84 and 85 Xr200Rs had the 2 carbs. THe ATC200 parts from the old trikes will move over as well, in case you need any spare engine stuff.
GoodLuck!
Posted by: Jon K.---------------------
2stroke got me to thinking; the spark advance on these bikes are funny. The magnet piece is pressed onto the advancer on some splines. If the motor runs for any time with the cam chain loose, the magnet will strip the splines and move to a useless position. Easy enough, just check the ignition timing. Or grap the magnet (under the top "CDI" cover) and try to twist it. If it moves without the engine moving you have found the problem.
Posted by: Live2Ride300---------------------
So I need to adjust the spark advance? The bike has good spark so I dont think its an electrical problem, but it could be the spark advance. When the bike stopped running, it had been running for a day and a half, do you think it got out of adjustment or something? When it stopped running my friend was on it and he was in second gear and he pulled in the clutch and it stalled on him, then we couldnt get it going again. Is there a way of posting pics on here?
Posted by: 2stroke---------------------
Ahhh....did you try the old dump some gas in the plug hole thing yet?
Always start out with the 3 basics...compression, spark at the right time, and fuel. YOu got all 3 of these, it will at least try to run.
Spark, you know how to check for. COmpression, well you can get a gauge, but you should be able to feel it...and for fuel...seriously, get a funnel, and dump about 1/2 cup down the spark plug hole, replace the plug quickly, and kick away. IF it does not fire, than its not a fuel problem....etc...if it does try to start then you know you got a fuel problem.
If the bike sat for a while, I bet some scaly crap from the tank has flowed down and clogged up the carb inlet or the tank valve...Riding those bikes for the first time in a long while can jar that crap loose, so even if it ran well for a day or two...pretty soon the scaly rust particles can work loose and then your out of luck.
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