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repacking silencer?
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Posted by: KelvinKDX---------------------

Quick question here that's been puzzling me:

I keep getting this urge to repack my silencer (FMF PCII S/A) on my KDX - but i don't seem to know why i should do it.  The silencer has been on the bike for two riding seasons.

Are there signs that it is time to repack?  Is there a time interval?  I hear of many MX'ers repacking annually.

I've not noticed any great power losses - sound seems the same as always - but when should i do it???  Never comes to mind.

Input welcome.

Posted by: KnoxKDX---------------------

Well, that's a good question, but since I have only the stock silencer I won't be of much help to you. It seems that over time the silencer packing can't help but accumulate oil and gunk, so I would think once a year wouldn't be unreasonable. As far as power loss and noise, the process of oil accumulation will be so slow that you might not actually notice a change to it...kinda like if you work with someone who gains 30 pounds in a year, you won't notice cause you see the guy everyday, but his mom who only sees him at Christmas will!!!

Posted by: BRush---------------------

Two seasons!

I repack about every 6 - 8 weeks. I notice the sound level drops. Also, unless jetting is totally perfect, spooge will eventually soak the packing material. Let it go too long and the packing blows out and low end will go away. Other times to repack - after any deep water crossing where you suspect the pipe outlet went under.

Posted by: KelvinKDX---------------------

BRush - thanks - i'm looking for some guidance.  I guess this post may seem kind of stange to those who repack all of the time.

I will probably repack my silencer to see if i notice any difference in noise and performance.

Posted by: chowder6---------------------

quick tip! to save about $10, i use 1/2 inch thick pipe insulation to repack my silencer...costs $1.39 per roll at home depot and works great....and a roll can last for atleast 2 repacking jobs....just a thought

Posted by: kev_rm---------------------

i use normal home insulation, about every 4-6 rides.

Posted by: dave186---------------------

On a two stroke, the packing wont really blow out like on a four stroke, but it will get clogged up with spooge. thats when you need to repack it. check out this website www.performax-products.com they sponsor DRN so check out there packing.

Posted by: KelvinKDX---------------------

i do have some of the Performax material that was handed out at DW02.  This is what i intend to use to repack with.

Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

A lot of points of view on this for sure.

FmF says 'Don't pack it too tight or performance will suffer.'

Then from some (I didn't copy it) web techline, 'Pack it as tightly as you can.'

re: Signs to repack

Spooge on your endcap (the connection between the arrestor and the canister) is indicative of 'You already should'a done it'

Take yours apart and check it out. After two seasons you'll likely find a wet soggy (smelly) mess.

Last I checked (last week) performax was about 3X the cost of one-each 'sanctioned' (brand name) packing material.

Posted by: BRush---------------------

I've tried the special Moose packing and I've tried the cheapo Home Depot insulation. I don't really see the benefit of the Moose stuff. About tight vs. too tight: the only time I had a problem was when it was too loose (really loose). There was a dramatic fall off in bottom end.

Posted by: dave186---------------------

Performax is actually cheaper than the best selling packing (silent sport) and is easier to use. FMF sells some stuff that is very similar to performax, and its about the same price. I think fly and some others sell some plain old fiberglass insulation in a bag for real cheap, but I would never use it. i can imagine trying to get that stuff out after getting all spooged up in a 2 stroke. if you really want to be that cheap, go ahead and use house insulation, but if you give some good packing a try, you might just notice it sounds better, lasts longer and might even give you a bit more power.

Posted by: BRush---------------------

I’d have no problem spend extra $$$ for “good” packing if I was getting some benefit from it. Easy enough to do a cost benefit analysis:

1) Does bike run better with “good” (i.e. “expensive”) packing?

2) Does bike runs quieter with expensive packing?

3) Is expensive packing easier to repack?

4) Does expensive packing allow you to extend the repacking interval.?

5) Is expensive packing easier to get?

6) Will my friends be more impressed with the expensive packing?

For my own case:

1) Not that I can tell.

2) No. Cheap Home Depot insulation is no louder than the Moose stuff. Have not tried Performax, but will give it a try sometime as I like experimenting. I seriously doubt that this result will change however.

3) Moose packing was harder to pack (it's stiffer). If someone made one of those pre-packaged canister things that fit my silencer I’d give it a try, but cutting and wrapping packing is more or less the same whatever you use.

4) Not that I can tell. You have to figure that new packing is going to spooge up about at the same rate, no matter what the material. .

5) How close is Home Depot?

6) Oh yeah. That’ll happen...

Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

Wow! I heard on DRN that BRush uses that spendy performax stuff in his S/A!!

I am SO impressed!!! I'm gonna run out and get me some right now! Chuck Steahly (of Steahly Off Road fame) has some hangin' on his wall!!

I am sooooo happy!!

p.s.
Anyone want me to pick'em up a FWW while I'm there? Send money!

Posted by: 380EXCman---------------------

How did I miss this one? Im gonna have to spend more time over here in this forum.

Quote:

I’d have no problem spend extra $$$ for “good” packing if I was getting some benefit from it. Easy enough to do a cost benefit analysis:

Quote:

1) Does bike run better with “good” (i.e. “expensive”) packing?

Funny you should ask? I compared my packing against silent sport and an unpacked silencer on a dyno. Consitently my packing out performed the more expensive silent sport in the horspower department. Both of us performed better than an unpacked silencer.

Quote:

2) Does bike runs quieter with expensive packing?

It could but not likely.

Quote:

3) Is expensive packing easier to repack?

Depends. Those Race Tools cartridge kits are like $22.00 and easier to put in. But is the extra $12.00 to $20.00 worth it to you?

Quote:

4) Does expensive packing allow you to extend the repacking interval.?

Yes and no. Honestly on 2-strokes durability is not as big an issue as it is for 4-strokes. But if you do have a 4-stroke the answer is yes. You will not find any insulation at Home Depot that will last more than a few rides in a 4-stroke. So you could save per repack but do it 5 times more often not to mention the added labor. (Not everyone loves to repack silencers like I do)

Quote:

5) Is expensive packing easier to get?

Not always. But I spend more time at my local bike shop than I do at the Home depot. And with this internet deal its pretty easy to get stuff if you are willing to wait a couple days for shipping.

Quote:

6) Will my friends be more impressed with the expensive packing?

Probably not, but hey with each bag of my packing you get a dyno chart you can cut out and put in you wallet.

and a cool sticker to put on your bike.

Whether you use more expensive silencer specific packing or not is not that big of deal. Its important to repack it as often as it needs it. Especially with excessive noise becoming more and more of an issue.

I could point out 100 reason why I think my stuff is best but I dont think this is the place. Check out my site (sig line at the bottom) or click on the banner I advertise on this site. Check out the FAQ's and decide for yourself.

Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

Look for the above post to get nuked......Your sig is 'illegal' ain't it? No? Yes?

Anyway......

Hey! I din't get no steenking sticker with my bag-o FmF packing!!

The rube's!

Posted by: 380EXCman---------------------

canyncarvr- I think its ok. I didnt come in here spaming away or anything. You can do a search on silencer packing and most of the threads I posted on I was as objective as I could be. I admit though I am going to be some what bias......

First and foremost though I try to educate people the importance repacking a silencer. Whether it is with mine or not. Believe it or not but I still get calls from guys telling me that they took all the "fiberglass stuff out that was plugging up their exhaust" and their bike is much faster now.....

Posted by: BRush---------------------

Quote:

Originally posted by 380EXCman
I could point out 100 reason why I think my stuff is best but I dont think this is the place.

Like many things in life, sometimes it is not a matter of what is “best” but merely what’s “good enough” . I’m quite willing to pay a premium price for something if the value I get from it makes the expense worthwhile. No Toil is an excellent example of this. I would truly hate to go back to the old messy solvent method of cleaning filters. For packing a two stroke KDX with an aftermarket SA, I have yet to be convinced that the expensive stuff confers enough of a benefit to justify the expense. A performance edge would be nice, but unless it will find a truly huge number of hidden ponies I’m a lot more concerned with sound levels, longevity, ease of repacking (in that order). The $1.50 a pop Home Depot stuff works pretty well and lasts fairly long. Might be different if I had a four stroke, who knows?. This is not a comment one way or the other on your product. I’ll probably give it a try at some point to see how sound levels are affected.

Posted by: Timr---------------------

Back to the original topic as to how often and why.

Kelvin,

I repacked my FMF silencer last august, and I've only ridden my bike 4 times since then.  After giving it no attention for the past two years, what you will probably find is that the holes on the silencer tube will be carboned over.  Most of mine were when I rebuilt it in august.  This has an effect on the performance of the silencer.  It changes things like back pressure and such since the more carbon build up you have, the more the silencer tube starts to act like a solid pipe.

Noise definately increases and there's other negative effects.  What can you do?  Well, you burn all the carbon off with a torch, or you can use a drill or a punch to tap out all of the holes, or you can soak in carb cleaner and then brush it with a wire brush.  Be sure it's good and dry if you go the carb cleaner route.

Then repack, with material of your choice, and you'll notice a difference in both sound and performance.

Posted by: BRush---------------------

The propane torch method works well. Once everything is carbonized, a wire brush clears everything away and opens up the holes.

Posted by: KelvinKDX---------------------

Alright guys - Thanks for the responses.

I will be repacking it with the Performax material that i have (thanks 380EXCman) from DW02.  :thumb:

i love this site! 

Posted by: wallasaki---------------------

Can a factory spark arrester be repacked? Checked the bike, and service manual, am I missing anything? Tried a search - no luck. Shouls I just follow manual for care and upkeep? Thanks in advance.

Posted by: KDXFreestyle---------------------

I have a 2003 stock KDX 200 S/A mine is unpackable, because it has no packing. lol by the way as most preople know, its welded together, completely.

Posted by: BRush---------------------

Quote:

Originally posted by wallasaki
Can a factory spark arrester be repacked? Checked the bike, and service manual, am I missing anything? Tried a search - no luck. Shouls I just follow manual for care and upkeep? Thanks in advance.

No. The stock silencer & spark arrestor has no packing. However, many KDX owners have replaced their stock pipe and silencer with aftermarket units for performance reasons. These do require regular repacking.

Posted by: wallasaki---------------------

Thanks Brush, figured it was a no go - just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Very quiet bike, as if it were packed with something.
later

Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

A BTW..
A local shop owner (and moto-x'r that ends up in front of everybody most of the time) mentioned he uses 4-str packing material in his kx. He said he's always being asked howcome his bike sounds so good. 'It's been one of my 'secrets',' he said.

I've got a bag for 'next time'.

Posted by: wibby---------------------

Well, if it had not of been for this thread I'd never have known of such a thing as packing a s/a. Now if I could only figure out a way of sneaking over to my buddy's house and repacking his sons KX80! That lil sucker hurts my ears, it's so loud. I usually end up running a lot faster than I'm comfortable with, 'cuz I don't want that noisy lil **** in front of me!

Posted by: KelvinKDX---------------------

Well - i repacked the silencer today.  I can't believe how easy it was - the second time.   :whiner:

The first time was on my bike and i removed all of the rivets and inner pieces (it was pretty carboned up inside).  Know i do know that there is an easier way and next time will be a lot simplier.

The second time was on my friends - we just removed the hex head screws and pulled off the outer case.  Easy.

Posted by: wibby---------------------

Being an unemployed millworker at the moment, and the fact that I have a garbage bag full of leftover insulation from my shop. I'm gonna try the cheap route.

So my dumb question of the day is: Do you remove the paper backing on the insulation or not? :silly:

Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

Yes.

Pack it relatively tightly...don't just fluff it in there. Hold it together by wrapping it with masking tape (which you'll likely find wrapped around the existing packing).

Posted by: wibby---------------------

Wow! I finally see why you call it spooge, what a mess. The packing around the longer tube ( it's a FMF ISDE S/A) was not too bad but I'll change it anyway. The packing around the turbine thingy was nasty. I used a Harbor Freight propane weed burner and a wire brush to clean it up, my regular propane torch was taking way too long.
To get it apart I used a pair of Vise-Grips that has a chain on it, I think it is meant for working on pipes. Anyway I just attached it to the pipe and used a drift and a hammer to pound it off. It came off really slick, I'm glad I thought of using that 'cuz I could not figure out how to get that darn thing apart, especially when I'd never actually seen one apart. :thumb:

Posted by: wibby---------------------

Is it just me or is my bike really quiet now? Well, except for that carb sucking noise!

I'd bet my S/A had never been repacked before, the rivets on the turbine were steel, very hard to drill out, I even broke a drill bit on 'em. The packing looked to be standard yellow colored fiberglass insulation.

Posted by: twocycle---------------------

I have an 89 KDX with a stock silencer. There is wool packing inside. Can
insulation be used?

Posted by: motometal---------------------

maybe this would be a better question for the engineering forum, but i'll whip it out anyway...

what would be the effect on engine performance of enlarging all of the little holes in the perforated tube, or using a different tube with more "open" area?

it's logical the bike would be quieter...

I think 380excman is on track...it's hard to fault a guy that gives away free stuff and supports DRN! It's not like he's pimping some snake oil here, you get what you pay for.

I don't believe anyone has mentioned yet that the cleaner your bike is jetted, the less spooge build up you will have. Different types of fuel and oil have an effect also, of course.

Posted by: Jim Crenca---------------------

Oven cleaner works pretty well for clean up but I managed to dis-color the aluminium housing on my FMF unit this weeked with oven cleaner (did I mess up the clear annodizing?).
I think Silent Sport works better than insulation as I believe it doesn't clog as quickly. I sure would like to find raw fiberglass strand material as the Silent Sport stuff is way to $$$. I'll try Performax next time.
BTW - I can hear the difference after about 10 rides (approx. 500 miles) using MX2T and 38:1.

Posted by: wibby---------------------

Wibby here again, yeah I need to get a life!

I repacked my buddy's KX80 today, Oh man what a difference! :thumb:

When I took it apart it looked like someone had wrapped cardboard around the pipe before they wrapped on the insulation, no wonder it was so freaking loud!

Posted by: Jim Crenca---------------------

So what materials are we talking about?
I think we can all say that the standard "cheapo" packing is very similar to fiberglass building insulation.
Is Silent Sport stranded fiberglass? It sure looks like it.

I believe that the best material will have a high degree of acoustic damping for sound attenuation, not clog any faster than the rest (so it stays quiet), and isn't so fragile it blows out from a 2 stroke.

What material is Performax made from?

Posted by: RJ-KDX---------------------

http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showth...?threadid=80494

This is a thread I posted earlier. The FMF Performance material was long strands of fiberglass material or something similar(it didn't itch though). It was very easy to work with. I've been on two rides since I replaced the packing, power and sound were very good. I'm not familiar with Silent Sport or Performax so I am with holding comment.

:thumb:

Posted by: XRDadKDXBeni---------------------

KDX220, never re-pack, stock silencer

Posted by: TheGrinch---------------------

Quote:

Originally posted by kev_rm
i use normal home insulation, about every 4-6 rides.

I tried that once in my old '95 Husky WR250. I found it totally disintigrated. I had a couple of hard carbonated balls rattling around inside my silencer within just a few rides.

You would definately have to repack every 4-6 rides.

Posted by: wibby---------------------

I just took mine apart after 3 months of use, probably about 300-400 miles or so.
The R13 insulation was soaked with spooge the first inch or so on both ends but looked relatively good in the middle, it was still mostly yellow except for the ends of course.

Posted by: Twiztid One---------------------

i repack mine once a year , if it needs it or not .

Posted by: wibby---------------------

I repacked mine in October

From the increased sound coming from it I'd say I'm do for another repack of silly string (aka Silent Sport)

In November I ran it through the sound test at the local poker run.
My FMF ISDE S/A was 89 decibels

Posted by: Rhodester---------------------

Motometal, I had an ATK406 that was really loud so I drilled out every little hole in the silencer core when I repacked it. It made a noticable difference in the sound level. I noticed no change in the power output or delivery.

Posted by: Braahp---------------------

If I knew how to get into my PowerCore II I might repack it. Do I really have to drill those rivets out?

Posted by: skipro3---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Braahp

If I knew how to get into my PowerCore II I might repack it. Do I really have to drill those rivets out?

Go to FMF's website. They have instructions there how to repack. It should tell you if you need to drill rivets.

Posted by: Braahp---------------------

Ahh..never thought to check there. Thanks for the tip.

Posted by: FLBusa---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Braahp

If I knew how to get into my PowerCore II I might repack it. Do I really have to drill those rivets out?

You shouldn't need to drill out anything. The Silencer has 3 screws at the opposite end. At least mine does.

Posted by: motox---------------------

I repack at least once per year. KDX200 1992 fmf fatty pipe with spark arrester. I use either insulation or steel wool used by painters. The wool comes in different densities like sand paper. It's about $3 to $4 a bag and you can repack 2 mabe three times. It's like glass pack. It really works good. Do Not Pack too tight. I notice increased low end response everytime I repack. Like the other guys have stated, you dont notice the loss of power over time, but as soon as you repack and ride you'll notice. Each time I repack the old packing is about 1/2 soaked with oil and spooge. Repacking is easy, a little messy, but well worth it.

Posted by: Joe Ortiz---------------------

Coming late into this thread, sorry, I need to repack my Turbine Core 2, what does this Home Depot insulation looks like?, is it a tube or a big roll?
Joe

Posted by: White_Knuckles---------------------

The white fluffy packing by FMF is only $6.00-$7.00 a bag at the bike shop so why cheap out for "home" insulation for an annual re-pack? The bike packing is fiberglass but doesn't seem itchy like the other. FMF brand includes instructions and their web site details the Turbine Core II disassembly. Use 3 bands of 1/2" masking tape.

The home club flavor is 1/2 - 1 in. thick usually in bulk marketed as pipe wrap. NOT paper or aluminum backed 3" pink stuff.

Remember to wire brush the core and use anti-seize on the screws when you reassemble.

Posted by: bcVulcan---------------------

I just finished repacking mine with moose packing. 15.95. Yeah, a little steep but I believe it lasts a lot longer than pipe or house insulation. It comes in long strands/strings. The package is as wide as my silencer is long. Therefore, just wrap it around and around the core and use a little masking tape to hold it while you put the muffler back on. I also used a drill to clean out the holes. This took me about fifteen minutes and was the most time consuming and annoying part of the job. It gave me a noticable amount of power increase and sounds much better.

Posted by: dougjc---------------------

My FMF turbine II Q has the 3 bolts to remove that should let me pull the core out. There is a little section of the core sticking out of the end cap to grab with a plyers, but I cannot get it to come out. I've never changed the packing before so its probably gunked in there good. Any advice? Also, what kind of tool is needed to remove the rivets? If I could get the end cap off, it would be a lot easier to pull the core out.

Doug

Posted by: wibby---------------------

You can drill the rivets out, or if they spin I sometimes use a dremel with a cut-off wheel

Posted by: bcVulcan---------------------

You don't remove those rivets. That "core" your talking about stays there and the outer part of the silencer comes off. Just remove the three allen bolts at the "front" of the silencer. You may need to tap the cover with a hammer and screwdriver but it should slide right off the back end.

Posted by: chuckdoc---------------------

I just used a screw to poke tiny holes into my silencer core.

950 tiny holes, but who's counting

will try the blow torch next time.... lol

chuckdoc

Posted by: wibby---------------------

I repacked mine again this weekend and I took pics...

Posted by: razrbakcrzy---------------------

Guys try this link for repacking of FMF s/a (turbine core)
http://www.fmfracing.com/tech_instr...turbinecore.pdf

see the bottom of the second page!

Jim

Posted by: Rcannon---------------------

Confession time.....How many of you guys have gone 'el cheapo' and repacked with furnace filter material?

I have . It works like a charm and lasts quite well. Cost is virtually nothing.

Posted by: GhostRider32---------------------

Where do you guys order your packing material from?

Posted by: dixie---------------------

Dixie here I try to repack every 6-10 hours of ride time used all of the above only differance I see if the materals are more dence than others the thicker ones are more quitier with less gooe, thinner more gooe, Right now I am trying some stuff that is used in a fire kill brick oven insulation a friend brought me to try. One problem It has asbesto in it cancer causeing agent able to with stand a 1,000 degrees of heat, So stay in front of me , I don't belive I will be useing this stuff for long.

Posted by: JustForeFun---------------------

First Post -- Having a performance issue. This is the only solution I have found so far.--

I have an FMF Gnarly pipe with 5 good years of riding on it (3 yrs from 99KDX 200 and now 2 yrs on my 03KDX200) and the forest approved silencer. Never repacked it until about 16 weeks ago. Nothing changed, but the bike gradually started cutting out @ high rpm then over another 10 hours of riding it migrated to midrange too. Started playing with the air screw, air filter, gas, main jet, clip setting, type oil, air box, reeds checked, plugs changed. Nothing seemed to help except when I finally tried repacking the silencer. Immediate improvement. Not perfect, but very close. However, now about every 15-20 hours of riding it starts doing it again. Repack it and it's better. I have now done it 3 times and feel it's a bit odd as I haven't done it in for 4 years of riding with this issue. The last time I took a nail to about 300 of those little holes after torching it to make it crispy. Thought that was the issue giving it more outlet. Using standard FMF 2 stroke packing.

I'm running at sea level, stock needle with clip in the middle, main jet is a 155. Pilot is a 45. Air box has several big drilled holes in the top. Using a BR7ES plug. Been running 927 oil with 91-2 octane gas. Always run 50:1. Use to run golden spectro until about 1 year ago- it worked great, but dirty.

What have I missed ? Is it time to pop for a new silencer -- and pipe? Has it seen it's day?
I think this weekend I'll stick the stock pipe back on it and see what happens.

Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks. JustForeFun akaktmklr

Posted by: JustForeFun---------------------

This afternoon I replaced my FMF forest approved spark arrestor (after 5 years of use and 3 recent repackings with short lived success) with the (still new) stock KDX spark arrestor. I rode 18 pretty hard trail miles tonight without the engine cutting out once. I believe the Issue is resolved.

It rips again!

The prior symptoms were gradually started cutting out wide open and then migrating gradually to cutting out midrange. Repacking helped for about 20-40 riding hours and then start over.

Posted by: John Cena---------------------

Wow after looking at this I checked the silencer on the 92 KDX I bought few days ago and the muffler end is gunked up looks like it hasn't been changed in 12 years

Time for me to change!!

What kinda insulation are you home depot guys using? I got some white stuff from homedepot for my bathroom will that work?

Posted by: John Cena---------------------

Well here's my FMF muffler off my 92 KDX 200 I bought a few days ago. What a mess!!

http://home.cogeco.ca/~lleepp/P1020154.JPG

http://home.cogeco.ca/~lleepp/P1020153.JPG

And after repacking! Sounds alot quiter now!

http://home.cogeco.ca/~lleepp/P1020155.JPG

Posted by: Waffle---------------------

Does the stock silencer need to be cleaned? And if so, how? I bought the factory manual but the only thing it shows is removing the spark arrestor drain hole. I did this and a bunch of spooge oozed out (ran the stock jetting for the first couple months). I have since leaned out the jetting but I'm assuming that the silencer is still pretty well clogged up. Any ideas?

Posted by: 03KDXHOPPER---------------------

I recall the factory manual saying something about tapping it after removing the plug. That's about all I remember about the factory one. There's no other disassembly to it, though, so you may have done everything you can with it. I wonder about a solvent soaking and draining it out again, but don't know if that would affect the packing in the factory one. Maybe do a test or two on fiberglass with different solvents? I think rubbing alcohol is a catch-all cleaner for most stuff (although it strips color from vinyl interiors of vehicles).

Posted by: Kwakasaki---------------------

After all this reading of yes, no, maybe, sometimes, I just decided to leave my pipe alone and went inside and packed the hag instead!

Posted by: Colorado---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rcannon

Confession time.....How many of you guys have gone 'el cheapo' and repacked with furnace filter material?

I have . It works like a charm and lasts quite well. Cost is virtually nothing.

Can you use a used filter? It's dusty, but no oily carbon spooge. Now THAT'S 'el cheapo', and I just shut the furnace down for the summer --- won't even have to buy a new one for months!

Posted by: kawikdx250---------------------

Repacking that stuff is over rated. Get a cherrybomb for a car, paint it flat black. You'll be the envy of all your friends!

Posted by: moore_716---------------------

a spark arrestor may make a difference on the affects of packing your silencer. I repack mine every 2-3 months. Sooner if splooge is drooling out the end cap. I wrap the packing as tight as I can and wrap as much as I can fit. Then I add another layer and wrap the hole thing tightly in masking tape so that the can slides on. Another problem I haven't seen mentioned(I might have missed it) is that over time on a 2t the core will become clogged, almost solid, and then can actuallu rot apart. If the core is really caked I burn it clean with a propane torch. It takes a while but it works. Just don't get the core itself cherry red.

Posted by: j_2da_h---------------------

Is there even a great importance in repacking, i thouhgt it just make your bike quieter

Posted by: Colorado---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by j_2da_h

Is there even a great importance in repacking, i thouhgt it just make your bike quieter

It gets your hands really dirty too, gets you out of the house and away from the wife, and gives you a chance to thumb your nose at OSHA as you work with fiberglass without a respirator.

And it does make your bike quieter. It might matter to your nieghbors if it doesn't to you.

Posted by: KDXFORU---------------------

what is tight but not too tight. How can you judge?

Posted by: Green Hornet---------------------

Guys, Pack the thing and ride already

Posted by: bike_rider250---------------------

I just did a search on re-packing silencer and i read that you can lose HP by not re-packing it but wouldnt you gain power? I'm thinking about re-packing mine cuz its preaty loud

Posted by: kanrandy---------------------

I have the FMF Power Core II- waited like you for 2 years- spooge coming out of the rivets and the endcap- bought the FMF packing material for 7 bucks from Rocky Mountain. Made some difference in sound but more noticeably I picked up low-end snap. Now do this 2 times per year.

Posted by: Red_Chili---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Green Hornet

Guys, Pack the thing and ride already

It's too snowy. This is a phenomenon known in the 4x4 truck world as web-wheeling. I guess this here would be web-whooping...

Posted by: NSPHIL---------------------

Well, this kinda ties in with muffler maintenance.
Where can I get the replacement stickers for the Turbine Core II, I see they sell rivet kits with replacement logos for all the 4-stroke exhuasts, they must have them for the TCII?

Posted by: KelvinKDX---------------------

I have never seen replacement stickers for the TCII. I usually just find my own preferred sticker or leave it clean.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NSPHIL

Well, this kinda ties in with muffler maintenance.
Where can I get the replacement stickers for the Turbine Core II, I see they sell rivet kits with replacement logos for all the 4-stroke exhuasts, they must have them for the TCII?

Posted by: JasonRan---------------------

I've tried to find stickers for my TCII also, but no luck. I ended up just putting the regular FMF sticker on it. If anyone knows where to get them, please let us know!

Posted by: NSPHIL---------------------

Yes, please do!
I have tried contacting FMF on several occasions with no luck of course, I am very picky about the way things look. Think I will use the standard FMF stickers as well for the moment.
To think, I was actually considering getting the Powercore 4 rivet kit just for the logo, that would have looked dumb.

Posted by: Green Hornet---------------------

Phil-Did you get my PM from the other site???????

Posted by: kawa467---------------------

every six months is when I repack silencers.

Posted by: pete fry---------------------

In the process of repacking my tailpipe now.Notice she had got louder and after reading this I thought maybe its time.The packing aroung the perforated pipe is now very black and rock hard.So I think noise wise I should notice a difference.

Posted by: paab---------------------

What's the word on repacking the 88-94 style silencers? Or, where can I find an aftermarket can with the straight pipe for that style exhaust?

Posted by: lite_em_up---------------------

I saw several posts by people bragging about using home insulation as packing material! This stuff is NOT meant for exhaust systems. It's a bunch of fiberglass fibers glued together to give it structure, like cotton candy. Problem is the glue BURNS out at about 500°F, leaving a bunch of free-flying fibers and burned glue residue. That's about the LAST insulation I'd put in a muffler! OEM Materials Engineers would laugh me out of the room if I mentioned that stuff!

Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------

Quote:

This stuff is NOT meant for exhaust systems, ....like cotton candy.

Which is why I use cotton candy!! It smells good, too!!

Cerealy, I'd hope that after it was used once, a quick look at such packing (basic insulation) on removal would change anyone's mind that it's up to the job.

Bet'cha lots'a folks just put more in, though!!

Posted by: lite_em_up3---------------------

I can tell you this, if home insulation worked in exhaust systems, OEM exhaust makers for autos, dirt bikes, motorcycles, snowmobiles and jet skis, and any other exhaust maker would use it simply to save a penny per unit given the amount of material they consume. They don't use it because it's fiberglass-based wool, with a binder (glue) whereby the glue burns out at sub-500F. Once the glue burns, the fibers have no binder which held them to form. At about 850-875F, well below exhaust temperatures, the fibers begin hardening which means losing their thermal and acoustic properties.

Hey, maybe the cloud of fibers coming out the exhaust IS pretty!

Posted by: ridejunky---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by lite_em_up

I saw several posts by people bragging about using home insulation as packing material!

Has anyone tried office insulation? One benefit is it's tax deductible.
Asbestos soaked in creosote I heard works good to!

Posted by: john stu---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by XRDadKDXBeni

KDX220, never re-pack, stock silencer

must sound great..........

Posted by: sharky_101---------------------

i opened mine up today and its got no 'material' inside it. just a reducer looking thing.. where and how i put the packing stuff on mine?

Posted by: mandark1967---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by sharky_101

i opened mine up today and its got no 'material' inside it. just a reducer looking thing.. where and how i put the packing stuff on mine?

Take your silencer end cap off and pull the pipe out.

Make sure all the holes in the pipe are clear.

Wrap your silencer material around the mesh pipe and tape into place using 1/4" masking tape sparingly to hold it on.

Put the pipe back into the silencer body and reattach the end cap.

Posted by: 95xr250---------------------

i know when you repack a muffler it sounds better and more bottom end power not as slugish

Posted by: RD guy---------------------

I have a gnarly rev but I did not get the FMF silencer because I already spend enough time cleaning and adjusting my bike. I do long rides 80 to 150 miles in the desert and mountains around Tucson about once a month. This would make repacking necessary after about every three rides. Yuk.

The gnarly pipe made a big difference over the stock pipe, would the FMF silencer help even more? I have not seen any comment about whether or not the after market silencer really makes that big of a performance difference over stock.

Posted by: adam728---------------------

The biggest difference between the FMF and the stocker is weight. The stock silencer is a pig, but performance isn't that bad. Some people say there is no difference, on my bike there was a little. It seemed to pull a touch longer and have a hair quicker throttle response with the FMF. Of course, this was on a bike that was ported, modded head, bored carb, yadda yadda yadda. On a more stock bike I can't say if the gain would be the same. But like I said, even on my 220 the difference was minimal. More of mental thing possibly....

Posted by: steve.emma---------------------

i had a p/c pipe with the stock muffler on my 220, then i swapped the muffler for a turbine core item. it made the bike louder and it weighed less but as for performance increase i honestly couldn't tell! afterwards i kinda thought i wasn't worth the money.

Posted by: chrisp80---------------------

I'm a newbie, I just bought a 89 kdx 200 and I've never repacked a silencer but i have way to much spooge in the silencer and it actually leaks from the juction between the silencer and the pipe.

I dont know how to wrap it so its not to tight, or to loose. Is there a step by step guide to do this or some picture showing the process? I have a FMF pipe and silencer and there website doesnt have really good info on how to do it.

Thanks everyone.

Posted by: Hawk5443---------------------

I had a "92 KDX 250 with a stock pipe and silencer that was pretty easy to re-pack. I upgraded to an '03 KDX 220, which has a stock exhaust system. The bike is starting to blow oil and I am sure that the pipe and silencer are full of spooge. When I looked at the silencer, there is no way to break it down. It has a plug in the bottom, presumably to drain it, so I assume that there is no packing material. The plan is to use lacquer thinner to clean the whole system. Are my assumptions coprrect?

Thanks.

Posted by: Imaginos82---------------------

I just bought an 88 Kdx 200 and took it out riding for the first time in the desert, and the end cap on the silencer(being held on only by a solitary screw on top) must have allowed the mesh tube on the inside along with the packing to fly out when i hit the powerband one time.

my question is simple
-is it bad for the bike not to have the mesh tube or packing in the silencer while riding and does it need to be replaced before the next ride?

Posted by: _JOE_---------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Imaginos82

I just bought an 88 Kdx 200 and took it out riding for the first time in the desert, and the end cap on the silencer(being held on only by a solitary screw on top) must have allowed the mesh tube on the inside along with the packing to fly out when i hit the powerband one time.

my question is simple
-is it bad for the bike not to have the mesh tube or packing in the silencer while riding and does it need to be replaced before the next ride?

Yes

Posted by: SVandal---------------------

I just pulled mine apart and found the mesh tube was completely packed with spooge that has crusted on to the metal and packing. It took 30 minutes just to clear about 1/3 of the tube. I'd say from now on I will keep a better eye on it. Now to pull the spark arrestor out and clean it up.

Posted by: Crimeidy26---------------------

I took my FMF PCII S/A off the bike today and did a shorty mod. I cut the silencer off before the weld where its bent so no more hockey stick just a shorty. I took out the old packing and it was a little black around the internal pipe and clean everywhere else. I went up into the attic and grabbed a few handfulls of insulation and packed it up. The bike sounds good and isn't very loud which was surprising. The end of the silencer ends about at the end of the number plate which looks so much better than the hockey stick crap. So i guess repacking wasn't necessary but i did it anyways since i had the S/A off anyways because of shortening it for better sound.

Posted by: Dirtymotonut---------------------

[QUOTE=Jim Crenca]Oven cleaner works pretty well for clean up but I managed to dis-color the aluminium housing on my FMF unit this weeked with oven cleaner (did I mess up the clear annodizing?).
Hey Jim...I am a house keeper by trade and oven cleaner does make aluminum go a differnt color but very fine steel wool will remove most of it or use MAAS silver polish. I am a oven cleaner freak as I use it on everything myself just have to know the technical side...Also for a great tip for cleaning dirt bikes I use Greased Lightning also a great cleaner for everyting. Any house keeping tips for you dirty dirt bikers let me know.

Posted by: Kx85Krazy---------------------

we repacked my kx85 when we put a Cobra sparkarrester on. My powerband got shorter, probably because the fricken thing wouldnt fit. But it was still very strong. I used some stuff from MOTOSPORT and it worked well.

Posted by: 5810---------------------

I did mine couple off weeks ago using fmf packing & WOW what a sound difference, Exhaust is quiet again. :-)

Posted by: MaverickAus---------------------

Geez I'm glad my KDX has the stock muffler

Posted by: dave89b---------------------

i repacked my old answer silencer/spark arrestor today with the yellow insulation. i couldn't find any pink lol i think i did it right? it sounds a lot better but still reallly loud. bog power difference too. oil soaked pink insulation is what came out of it.

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