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'96 KDX 200 gearing
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Posted by: tclark2020---------------------
Was just wondering if anyone has any suggestions on gearing for my '96 kdx. I race a lot of h/s and enduros and would like just a little bit more low end. Mine is not too far off, but a little bit more pep in 2nd gear would be great. My question is, would I be better off to go to a 12t on the front, or a bigger one on the back. If I go with a bigger sprocket on the back what sizes can I go with (48,49,50)?? After reading a bunch of posts, it sounds like a 50 may be too much. Wasn't sure if I could even go to a 48. If I change the gearing, will I need to make any other mods? Don't want a stump puller, just a little more torque without totally killing my top end!!!! Thanks, Travis
Posted by: D36-108A---------------------
You are better going bigger on the back because the smaller sprocket causes more wear. After trying 12/47 for a ride (equivalent to 13/50) I went to 13/49. It fits fine (Fredette chain guard). The former gearing was just too wheelie-prone.
Posted by: tedkxkdx---------------------
I tested between a 12 and 13 cs and also using 47,48,49 sprockets. I came to the conclusion for the best all around for me since I wanted nice rev and good low end in 2nd to seat jump out of corners, was using the 13/48. 49 seemed to make me shift more and made my top speed slower but not more than 5mph. Using the 12 is ok if all you are doing is tight stuff and not shifting much. I had to shift way to much with the 12.
So get a 48 and a 49 and go testing. You could also use both for racing depending on track conditions. Tight tracks 49, more open 48.
Posted by: tclark2020---------------------
Sounds good so far. I have been doing some math (tough), but had kind of talked myself into a 48 or 49. Think I will start with those. I found a place to get cheap ones for $15 each. Figure they will wear out real quick, but won't have much invested to make a decision. Will I have to get a new chain guard, or will the stock one work?
Posted by: tedkxkdx---------------------
I am using the stock guard. Just gotta watch the block it runs on so the chain does not cut through the bolts holding it on.
Posted by: andrew---------------------
13/48 is not bad for most applications, but I find that for really steep or snotty stuff you will want even lower gearing.
Once you start getting larger than 48 on the rear, I find that the rear chain guide rubbing block suffers from the increased angle of the chain. I went to a 12/46 combo (almost the same as 13/51) and it works for me. My top speed is 105km/h (about 65 mph) which may be a little on the slow side if you're on the highway, but quite fast enough on the trail (for me anyway).
Cheers,
Andrew
Posted by: Midhigh---------------------
I went with a 13/51 combination. I thought I read some thing about this combo was easier on the gear box than the 12/47. I have plenty of low end.
Posted by: tclark2020---------------------
I went ahead and ordered a cheap 49 sprocket. I am going to wait until next week when my buddy and I go ride. He just ordered about $500 worth of more power go fast stuff (pipe, RAD valve, sprocket, etc.) so I will see what I like and go from there (he has more money than brains). Figure this is the cheapest way for me to do some testing!!!!
Posted by: Midhigh---------------------
tclark2020,
you have the right idea. The V-Force II reed system, however, is a must have (no testing needed). Don't waste money on the RAD valve.
Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------
re: reed cages
He DID say, '..he has more money than brains'
re: easier on the gear box
I'd be interested in reading that post. Got a link?
A CSS is cheap, can be changed in minutes, can be used with the oem-length chain (108L), has no effect on the rear chain guide.
A rear sprocket is NOT cheap, cannot be changed quickly, cannot be used with a 108L chain (in the 50-51 sizes and maybe even with a 48 depending on the condition of your chain), may require a different chain guide.
re: shift more
Or..shift less. With a lower final drive ratio (higher numbers math-wise), I find I shift less not more. I'm more likely to be in 2nd gear than ever being in 1st. 2nd gives me plenty of oomph with a 12/47 combo that I wouldn't have with a 13/47. So, with the oem gearset, I'd be in 1st gear..and be shifting more.
You say po-tay-toes, I say po-tah-toes.
Posted by: BRush---------------------
I run 13/50 and the ratio is pretty close to 12/47. Others I know run 12/47 and there does not seem to be any practical difference in the longevity of the chain and sprockets.
Posted by: Midhigh---------------------
I will do some research on my early post. If I remember I was reading an article on RC's gearing. And his head wrench said using the 13/50 vs. 12/47 was easier and less wear on the internal gears. I will search for it and let you know.
Posted by: 89kdx200rdr---------------------
i just checked on the cool little moto speed gearing calculator and for a given rpm the diff between 12/47 and 13/50 is 0 (in regards to speed in mph) in 1,2 and 4th gears. theres only a 1 mph diff in 3, 5 and 6th gear. maybe thats a program glitch. but it was fun graphin it out. man i'm bored.
Posted by: kdxfreeeek---------------------
hi guys i went with a 15/48 what you guys think that gives me let me know what you think i like it its flies and still pick sup the wheel befor the hit.
write back let me know what you guys thing of the 15/ 48 gearing
Posted by: Bubbie3737---------------------
kinda off topic, someone mentioned their top speed was 65mph which was a bit slow. what is the top speed about with the stock sprockets. Just curious.
Posted by: 89kdx200rdr---------------------
I race a lot of h/s and enduros and would like just a little bit more low end. Mine is not too far off, but a little bit more pep in 2nd gear would be great.
13/50 - you can run tight stuff in 3rd, pull out and normal corners in 2nd. there arent any trails long enough around here to get into 6th anyway come to think of it dont use 5th much either
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