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PW 80 Hop-ups

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Posted by: TommyJ---------------------

Im looking to buy a pipe, graphics, and whatever other goodies I can find for it. Anyone have experience hopping up a PW80?
Aftermarket pipe, jetting, susp.etc?
Thanks for any info.


Posted by: gwcrim---------------------

First throw away the suspension. Then the frame. And finally toss out the underpowered engine.

Replace it all with a KX60.

These bikes don't lend themselves real well to modifications. And there aren't many parts to do it with. I think FMF might have a pipe, though.


Posted by: gwcrim---------------------

Sorry for my first smart azz reply. Sunday I watched as my kid slammed his PW80 around an MX track. So I've been thinking on how to help the suspension. No need to hop up the engine unless the chassis is up to it.

Forks: Replace the stock oil with a performance oil. Maybe make some spacers for the springs. Or see if there is a more stiff replacement.

Rear shock: A while back I found a webpage that detailed how to hop up the rear shock. Can't find it now. But I did find a reference to a Works Performance shock for a TTR90 that is the same fit as a PW 80. I'm sure it's pricey though. Like 30% of the price of the bike, probably.

Here's a LINK


Posted by: TommyJ---------------------

LOL, This thought has crossed my mind several times. Youre right it no KX and it never will be.
But its for my 7 year old daughter and weve gotta get 1 more year out of it. she needs a little more riding experience before she steps up to a 60 or 65cc liquid. That is the plan though.
I found a nice little graphics package from Factory fx and FMF does make a fatty for it. So I figure Ill spend a few bucks on it. Itll definately look and sound better and hopefully go a little better- that stock exhaust seems sooo restrictive.


Posted by: TommyJ---------------------

Oops, must have just missed your 2nd reply. Thanks for the link- minibikesprings.com respring the front & rear for $90 each.


Posted by: tri-mx'er---------------------

I would truly just ride the bike a little longer like it is, then move up. there's nothing really worth doing to the PW 80. Its just not the type of bike that will really benefit from a hop up, its 25 year old technology.

Now if you have to keep it for a while, a nice little set of graphics may make your daughter happy. And if you've had it a while, its definitely due for a top end. I was amazed how quick the top end on my boy's PW80 went out. I could hear pretty good piston slap from the time the thing was a couple months old. Thats the little "ding ding ding" sound they make (seems like every PW80 does it).

They're great little learner bikes, and they sell OK on Ebay. Just ride it for a while longer and then let someone else use it as a starter bike. Thats what theyre made for. I'm speaking from experience here, as I was in the same boat, trying to figure out how to turn it into a hotrod.
tri-mx'er


Posted by: WrenchDaddy---------------------

I have done a few things to my nephew's PW80 to help the performance. Most are inexpensive and you can do them yourself.

1) Remove the rubber snorkel on the airbox, this allows it to rev much better.

2) Raise the clip on the needle in the carburetor on notch.

3) Remove the exhaust silencer and cut off the restrictive cone piece on the end of it.

4) Redrill a new rear shock mounting hole 1" further back on the frame, this will raise the back of the bike up and improve handling.

5) Raise the fork oil height to 6.5" from the top of the tube. Make sure the forks are compressed and springs are removed when doing this.

6) Add a 1/2" preload spacer to the top of the fork spring. (PVC tubing works well).

7) Remove some of the steel balls in the centrifugal clutch to raise the engagement rpm. (Leave an open space in between each one and distribute them evenly).

8) Change the gearing (We are in the process of finding the right setup).


Posted by: Jasle---------------------

get an ignition from the early mid eighties pw80. no rev limiter. more rpm up top. haven't figured out how to disable the rev limiter onthe newer ones. On the pw50 you just disconnect the start switch. never really got around to figuring it out on the pw80.


Posted by: gwcrim---------------------

Great advice guys. Thanks!


Posted by: TommyJ---------------------

Yeah!
Love those ideas. Thanks for the help.


Posted by: gwcrim---------------------

Any of you'nz have an extra PW80 swingarm lying around?




Posted by: viking20---------------------

When we raced smaller bikes in our family,almost all kids used pw 50īs and 80īs because of the rules of that time.I recall that several people used rear shocks from the bigger LEM bikes,LX 3/4 if I remember correctly.A decent low priced unit...


Posted by: gwcrim---------------------

I finally got our PW80 (actually it's a Jianshe Coyote 80) back together tonight.

Many thanks to KDX633. He came up with a used swingarm. Better than our 1 yr old one. It has useable bushings. Also had to replace the rear wheel bearings. All of them shot. Used fully sealed replacements.

I also moved the upper shock mount approximately 1" as WD suggested. Nice improvment. Makes it look more 'business like' with better ground clearance and jacked up fender. Jesse fell a few times... washed out front end in the grass.... getting used to the steeper rake. HHHmmm... might not be a good idea in all cases.

Upon inspection of the shock, I found the spring to be so sacked that I could remove the retaining collar by hand. There was at least 1/4" slop. I did my best to stretch it out a bit and even put a 1/2" PVC spacer in during re-assembly. Someday, I'll replace it w/a better piece. It's got two more kids coming up.

So I get it all together and we test it out and I walk back into the garage and see, sitting right there on the bench, the !#@$%!@# inner wheel bearing spacer!!!!! :flame: Oh well.... at least everything was clean this time.

Also as suggested I removed the rubber snorkel. My golly is that airbox noisy. Good guess that it was strangling the engine.

Then I cut the cone and the three vanes off the baffle. Didn't notice any difference to performance or noise. Strange, but the seat of the pants dyno is pretty unreliable so who knows.

Next up, I'll tinker with the forks. I'm sure there's lots of room for improvement just in fresh oil and a spacer.


Posted by: scairns---------------------

Great ideas I think I'll start wrenchen.

What do you think about the rear shock mounting mod would a 1/2 " be better or should I go the full 1 " ?

As for gearing I went down 2 teeth on the front and it works great. Granted going up on the back for atleast some would be better, but the front cost $15.00. Although if I get on it and give it some throutle a snapping sound is the result (chain slipping or clutch ?), scary so I just stay off and haven't really tried too see what it is because no problem with the boy on it. Has anyone removed the injector for premix or should it be left alone ?

Cheers !

IT200 (dreaming of next machine ??? so many options)
PW 80
Z50


Posted by: WrenchDaddy---------------------

Scairns, The snapping sound is from the chain slipping on the front sprocket, this is a common problem when going to a very small sprocket. Better to go with a larger rear sprocket, although there is not a lot of choices available for the rear. Could try tightening the chain a little more. I would recommend going with the 1" further back on the rear shock mount. Just be sure to do the fork mod I suggested to keep the steering geometry close to normal.


Posted by: gwcrim---------------------

There's a brand new chain and the stock sprockets on ours and we get that snapping noise as well. I really don't think the chain is slipping a tooth but that's just my opinion. I suppose whatever it is will give out a mile or so into the woods.

As for raising the rear, 1" is OK but I agree that you'll want the forks to be in good shape. That's one of my winter projects. And by the feel of it, winter is right around the corner.


Posted by: scairns---------------------

gwcrim

Did you go to the small front sprocket and if so did the noise start at that point ? WR I don't think the chain is skipping teeth but I will look closer at it and report back. I have had that setup for several rides without problems.

I am looking forward to trying some of your other ideas, let us know what else you come up with, there is limited info on the PW80 out there.

Cheers !

IT200 (11 tooth frt rocks)


Posted by: gwcrim---------------------

We're using the sprockets that were on it since brand new. They sure don't look bad enough to be slipping a tooth. But stranger things have happened I'm sure.

There's one other little mod that I did. Mud was caking up inside the sprocket cover, so I trimmed the bottom of it away. If I remember, I'll take some pics. It looks very sano.


Posted by: scairns---------------------

Any worries about taking on water with the snorkel removal my son can't seem to miss water of any form (puddle, mud hole, lake, etc. ?)

What about a skid plate to protect the pipe and cylinder ?


Posted by: gwcrim---------------------

Didn't do anything for any of what you speak. So far, so good.


Posted by: Studboy---------------------

My little bro has a 84 PW80 that we bought for $100 that had only been used once or twice.
I've already removed the stock airbox and replaced with a clamp on filter, rejetted, and regeared.
How much improvement does the FMF pipe and silencer make?


Posted by: MCFADYEN1968---------------------

WHAT DOES CHAGING THE CLUTCH DO AND DO YOU KNOW ANYTHING TO MAKE IT REV BETTER
Quote:
Originally Posted by WrenchDaddy
I have done a few things to my nephew's PW80 to help the performance. Most are inexpensive and you can do them yourself.

1) Remove the rubber snorkel on the airbox, this allows it to rev much better.

2) Raise the clip on the needle in the carburetor on notch.

3) Remove the exhaust silencer and cut off the restrictive cone piece on the end of it.

4) Redrill a new rear shock mounting hole 1" further back on the frame, this will raise the back of the bike up and improve handling.

5) Raise the fork oil height to 6.5" from the top of the tube. Make sure the forks are compressed and springs are removed when doing this.

6) Add a 1/2" preload spacer to the top of the fork spring. (PVC tubing works well).

7) Remove some of the steel balls in the centrifugal clutch to raise the engagement rpm. (Leave an open space in between each one and distribute them evenly).

8) Change the gearing (We are in the process of finding the right setup).



Posted by: Snagmaster---------------------

Ummmm..... I'm no expert, so when you say swingarm, are you talking about this http://www.mcnews.com.au/Features/2003/CR250_Markham/Swingarm_Left.jpg
or this http://www.minibikepro.com/images/p...etup%20@480.jpg

cause i don't know if "swingarm" is specific to just the 1st or both.


Posted by: Jasle---------------------

changing the clutch makes the clutch hit later. more in to the powerband. giving you better launch or coming out of the corner capability.


Posted by: hoatson---------------------

The following mods make a PW80 fast:

1) mill the head almost up to the squish area (the cone part leading into the dome). This raises the compression. You will need to use premium gas. The compression in a stock bike is barely enough to make it run.

2) remove the oil pump, block off the hole in the cases & the hole fitting on the carb, and use pre-mix.

3) install an FMF pipe.

4) remove the air filter housing & clamp a large K&N filter to the carb.

5) remove 1/2 of the balls in the clutch, raising the RPM that the clutch engages at.

6) port the cylinder, raising the exh & transfers 1-2 mm, widening them 3-4 mm.

7) install a Boyeson reed.

8) I also fabricated an intake manifold to mount a Mikuni 24mm carb.

The result is a bike with less low-end, but a strong, free-revving top-end - not a beginner bike, but less intimidating than a YZ85.

For the suspension:

1) install a Works Performance shock - the long version that adds travel & lifts the rear. This is much better than stock.

2) fabricate 1" long tubular spacers to extend the forks & increase travel. These are installed (with 1" longer allen bolts) between the bottom of the damping rods in the forks and the lower fork legs. The spacers need to fit tightly around the allen bolts (to keep the spacers centered) and need to have the same outside diameter as the damper rods. The spacers will also need to have grooves (8-10 of them)ground in their outside, from the top (damping rod end) to within 1/4" of the bottom - this lets oil pass (otherwise, the fork will hydraulically lock before bottoming.

Also, replace the rubber footpegs with TTR90 serrated footpegs so your feet don't slip off in the mud.


Posted by: gwcrim---------------------

Just out of curiosity, what did all that cost?


Posted by: 91-YZ250-Chris---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by gwcrim
Just out of curiosity, what did all that cost?


Just as much as buying a new yz85 and de-tuning it...

but seriously that could be a sleeper PW


Posted by: 2dayinc---------------------

Check out www.x-tender.com for the rear suspension of the Yamaha PW80 or TTR90!


Posted by: bennjito---------------------

hi, iv got quite a few mods on my pw, iv took off the air box and snorkel and replaced it with a unifilter air filter, iv also got the x-tender, iv drilled out the restricter in the exhaust but i want to get an fmf. iv also put some renthal bars and grips on, this has provided more control and greater leverage, its not kx65 but its a totally different engine. iv ordered a wiseco piston kit and some boyesen reeds, when i recieve these i will post again. is there any way i can post pictures??


Posted by: DELTA 41---------------------

What is this the 'snorkel' that they say to remove? Is it the hose from the carb to the airbox? Would a cone shaped foam filter be better? What size and brand?

Any suggestions on jetting at 4500' elevation? Which clip on the needle? Main jet?

Sorry to ask so many questions so soon. Thanks in advance.


Posted by: bennjito---------------------

the snorkel is the thig that connects the carb to the airbox


Posted by: DELTA 41---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjito
the snorkel is the thig that connects the carb to the airbox

Thanks.
Where'd you get your filter Bennjito?


Posted by: pbforlife3---------------------

Hey, I actually have a pw-80 im 16 years old..yea yea lol...anyway if u look on e.b.a.y. they have a power up kit, its got a carb jet a different air filter and a plug to go with the carb change..also i have the suspension lift that goes on the rear shock.....what an amazing difference....i highly recomend the lift...for plastics i painted mine black, its also alot older so the seat is pink but what can u do......i did find some stiffer front springs on google for the forks...i think they were about 80$....good luck


Posted by: bennjito---------------------

i got my filter off ****, its just a standard 1 inch k&n fitted straight onto the carb, the lifter kit is also a great addition. i think it looks better, can someone tell me how to post a picture so you guys can see.


Posted by: ak_ef9---------------------

hi I am new here and I just got a 2004 pw80. I want to take off the rev limiter. Is there any way to do this? I already chescked to see if there was a washer but there wasnt. Also can I put a cable clutch on this thing? It bogs too much in the feilds i play in. thanks for any info


Posted by: razorboy---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjito
i got my filter off ****, its just a standard 1 inch k&n fitted straight onto the carb, the lifter kit is also a great addition. i think it looks better, can someone tell me how to post a picture so you guys can see.


I want to get some more air into my sons PW as well but that bike gets dirty when we are on the track. I think a K&N right on the carb may be a potentially restrictive idea if the bike is getting a lot of dirt time. You got to get that filter away from the elements that are getting spit back from the front! Then there is spray washing the bike. You'll need to remove the filter and cover the carb to wash and wash the filter separately. Seems like a lot of work for a little gain.
I am going to cut holes in the sides of the stock airbox to let more air in. I have stainless stell mesh that I will rivet onto the airbox and then put UNI foam on the back side of it.
Should maximize airflow without doing away with the airbox altogether.

BB


Posted by: sweden_345---------------------

Anyone know how to remove the reeds? I have just ordered boysen reeds for my pw 80 but it seems like they are attached from the inside of the engine or am I just mistaken?

Seems really weird if they were bolted on from the inside


Posted by: FruDaddy---------------------

Pull the carb, then the manifold, and then the reed block, if I remember correctly. It is really simple, but a little easier with the tank removed as well.


Posted by: sweden_345---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by FruDaddy
Pull the carb, then the manifold, and then the reed block, if I remember correctly. It is really simple, but a little easier with the tank removed as well.


Got it off this afternoon... problem was that it was stuck so it felt like it was molded in the crankcase!

Does the boysen reeds do much difference?

I'm in the process of making a sleeper pw, anyone knows where to find stiffer front springs and maybe a stiffer rear spring

What do you think about a 21mm carb with an custom intake + fmf pipe and silencer? Would the 21mm carb make much difference? I know that a smaller carb size is better for low end and the pw isn't precisely good at producing high rpm's.

I have ordered 12:38 gearing, do you think I will be able to pop wheelies whit ease? Before it had 15:31 and did about 60mph but it was weak as hell

Will post pictures when finished


Posted by: FruDaddy---------------------

Make sure to rejet after the reeds go in. Wheelies aren't that hard on these bikes, it just takes rhythm. Have you though about retrofitting an MX CDI on it? That could help with the revs, if you can make it work.


Posted by: sweden_345---------------------

I think it is so old that it has no rpm limiter anyhow


How much do you guys think I would dare to raise the rpm with? It puts out maximum hp at 5500 but I could easily fabricate an exhaust and port the exhaust and transfer ports that is appropriate for about 9000/rpm but would the automatic transmission be able to handle that much?


Posted by: canada_dry---------------------

does anyone have tips as to how I can rejet my carb. I bought the "Stage 1 pw80" airbox mod /carb jet/b.reeds off of **** and it was a good deal. I am having a problem thought as soon as I put the reeds in the bike runs like ****, it shoots pure white smoke out I think it migh be something with the oil premixer. How hard is it to get rid of that anyways? Does rejeting my carb take simple tools?

thanks you guys are great for repping the pw80


Posted by: FruDaddy---------------------

Rejetting does take simple tools, a phillips screwdriver, a couple wrenches, and sometimes a flat screwdriver. The reeds alone probably necessitated new jetting, do the jetting before messing with the pump. Also, the oil pump can be adjusted.


Posted by: canada_dry---------------------

I am pretty familiar with my bike but the oil/gas mixture along with the carb I am still afraid to tinker with unless I have directions on what to do. Could you recomend a website suitable?


Posted by: FruDaddy---------------------

This is one of the best for the cause, if I remember correctly, I stumbled across these forums while seeking PW80 information. I can, however, recommend getting the Clymer manual. There is a ton of good information in there. It's well worth 30 bucks, but I think you can get it for 25.


Posted by: canada_dry---------------------

can anyone sum up a carb rejet? disassemble, clean, and re-assemble what else should I do?


Posted by: FruDaddy---------------------

Adjust the ratio of air/fuel by turning a screw, moving an e-clip, and/or replacing the little brass jets that control the fuel flow. Search for Spanky's Jetting guide.


Posted by: canada_dry---------------------

cool thanks for that tip I'm reading it right now. I noticed I have a tube coming off of the carb that isnt connected to anything. Its not the overflow tube and its not DEF not the fuel tank line so I'm lost as to what it is, any idea?

how can I tell the diff. between the airscrew and the needle...I just need some clarification on which is which.


Posted by: razorboy---------------------

Hi Fellas,
I am hopping up my sons PW80 as well and wanted to offer a little advice from what I have seen.....

I, so far, have done the following

1) Had the cylinder bored out to accept an oversize Wiseco piston.
2) Went up one size on the main jet
3) Bought an aftermarket rear shock (for a CRF50). You want one that is 11" long eye to eye, then drill a new hole through the frame 1" closer. This raises the bike to the same height as if you used an X-Tender. You will also need to make spacers for the lower swingarm attached of the shock. The CRF shock is narrower on the lower point so I used three washers on either side of the shock to space the mounting point properly on the swingarm.
4) Went to 15w fork oil on the front and filled as per suggested here (6.5" from the top). I also installed 1" spacers inside the forks to get more preload. I discovered that there appears to be a preload adjuster inside the fork itself? If you remove the top bolt from the fork, there is a allen head adjuster under there? I installed the spacers and then wound down each adjuster to 25mm from the top of the fork. This may have been too much now and I may have to soften back out a bit. The forks are pretty darn stiff now....
5) Cut the restrictor out of the end canister on the exhaust. That is, cut the whole cone piece off!
6) I also found that if you remove the pipe from the engine, there is a "reducer" ring of metal on the inlet to the pipe! I used a dremel and cut that reducer out so now the pipe has the maximum inside diameter all the way through!
7) Installed Dunlop intermediate tires

Still to do.....
1) Deal with the airbox to get more air to the engine
2) Find a early to mid 80's ignition box without rev limiter
3) Remove bearings from the clutch
4) Get a life cause I should just buy a KX85 and be done with it.....


Posted by: fly11269---------------------

Great thread!!!

Get some 1" pop in filters from Dennis Kirk. I installed 2 in the front of the box and works great (more air is the key to waking up your pw) no more bogging down it 1st gear. Honestly you will not belive the difference more air makes. Also get a good filter like a twin air and keep it oiled!!!

Cut the cone off the silencer. Cone meaning taking the silencer apart and you will see a cone end and some viens cut it off. Much better flow and sounds more agressive.

Replace the stock 15 tooth front sprocket w/a 13. Your kid will smile when the front tire raises in the air when he/she gases it.

$40.00 will get you a whole lot of performance over stock.

I got on it and pulled away from a kid on a klx 110 and I weigh 200#....


Posted by: PwModder---------------------

Guys I got a 2001 Pw80 after my nephew got his KX80 he gave me his Pw80, I am 25 years old and 180 lbs with the mods you guys have posted here this bike came to life. I really enjoy it now and took it back to were he bought it and they were shocked at what the bike does after these mods. Awsome thread fella's simply awsome


Posted by: abuse---------------------

I just recently got this bike and this is all great info. Does the needle have to be on the top notch?


Posted by: braden---------------------

hey could come of you guys post pics of you pw80s i want to see what they look like cause i have one but i dont know what it will all look like. what should i do just drill a new hole for the rear shock 1" bigger or get the one space thing


Posted by: Str8ryder76---------------------

I have a 95 pw80


Posted by: paulopw80---------------------

without the three cones that are in the airbox the engines gets strangulated?


Posted by: xploder182---------------------

hey
im a newbie thinking of buying a jianshe coyote 80 (the same as the pw80 but at half the price) do you guys know whether it will be anywhere near as durable or have as good performance when modded as the Pw 80?


Posted by: jackflack44---------------------

No. That chinese POS wont even measure up to half of the Pw80. You get what you pay for.


Posted by: xploder182---------------------

are you sure?


Posted by: xploder182---------------------

yo
i got a 2nd hand pw80 and everytime i try to start it up it takes about half an hour to start, and then runs for a minute with throttle, lots of smoke, then cuts out and oilstarts pouring out of the pipe


Posted by: jackflack44---------------------

yes im sure. i thot the same thing when i bought a chinese version of a crf100 and u cant get replacement parts or work on it cuz all the sh*t breaks


Posted by: xploder182---------------------

hi guys
i never seen any pw80 pics to help me out and i am starting a pw80 site. i was wondering if you guys could check it out. if u go 2 the wetpaint homepage and search pw80 its the first website that comes up. it kinda of sucs out the moment so plz feel free 2 add ur own pics and movies, and im getting some forums going


Posted by: gwcrim---------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by xploder182
hey
im a newbie thinking of buying a jianshe coyote 80 (the same as the pw80 but at half the price) do you guys know whether it will be anywhere near as durable or have as good performance when modded as the Pw 80?


I bought one of these back in 2001 for my boy. He rode it for 3 years. Then his friend learned to ride on it. Now my youngest is learning on it. Other than the rear fender, all PW80 parts interchange. Forks, swingarm, engine parts.... everything. It's a real live PW80 with Jianshe on the cases.

Go for it. They're every bit as reliable as a PW.


Posted by: xploder182---------------------

great, thanks for the info
does anyone know if youj can put a cable clutch on the pw80 / jianshe 80


Posted by: xploder182---------------------

hey all
im having an ultimate pw80 competition on my website
you can find it at
http://pw80garage.wetpaint.com/thre...4/Ultimate+Pw80
plz post your pics and technical hop ups, you can even post a movie!
i and a couple of my friends will choose the winner


Posted by: lilmikey-az---------------------

Anyone got any pics?


Posted by: gwcrim---------------------

This is my little gal on our Jianshe Coyote 80.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/...ad/IMG_0013.jpg


Posted by: mx-dad---------------------

I've just started modding my sons 2007 pw80, I have done needle clip which was a big help ,......I have also taken the guts out of the silencer and cut off all but the very end piece and just screwed that back into the casing to make it still look factory, the factory silencer is a big restriction on these things....

I have ordered the boyesen reeds , i am hoping to get good gains from them.


Posted by: drunkenmonkey---------------------

Hiii people!
i have one to!
im almost 16years old soo jeah .. Its to slow and to small
i want to sell it but i dont may ..in the summer we will sell it , and i will buy a streetmotor !
now i have a pw80 and a ktm sx85
ktm goes like a BEAST ! 86mph
and jeah , the pw goes40mph :s
its all stock , we just toke something out of the exhaust !


anyone has an idea what i can do ?
im looking on this thread , but it isnt that easdy for me to understand evrything ( im from belgium .. reason why my english sucks)
im going to buy a streetmotor so i dont will invest in this motorcycle ! ( no 200$ or something )
reason why i want to fasten it is that i may ride on the street from my parents with the pw80 .. not with the ktm sx 85 :'(
i would start with the airbox snorkel , has anyone a picture of it ?that would help alot!
you can send me an email
its vacation so i will mail you immediatly back!


cya


Posted by: uk pw80---------------------

Hi from the uk we have 3 pw's and this thread has given us loads of ideas The oldest 80 is a 1983 which is standard except for a tal pipe.The 2nd 80 is 1991 and the one we are going to mod/tune.The 50(1981 model) we can not part with it's one of the family we have had it that long.



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