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FMF Gnarly or Rev pipe?
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Posted by: dougjc---------------------
I ride mostly tighter woods or trails so most riding is 4th gear and below. Under this scenario, seems like the gnarly would be better since I'm generally not pushing the upper RPM's anyway and more grunt in the low to medium RPM range is probably better. Any other thoughts?
Posted by: kmccune---------------------
The new pipe designations are Gnarly Woods and Gnarly Desert you won't find a Rev pipe for a KDX anylonger. I believe that it now called the Gnarly Desert
Hope this helps, when you decide which to buy.
Kevin
Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------
They've changed the names (to protect the guilty!) a few times, fact remains there are two FmF pipes for the kdx. The -30 is the rev (works better in the upper rpm ranges), the -35 is the torque (works better in the lower rpm ranges). Either/both will fit the 200/220.
Based on your post, I'd say you answered your own question. If you're not interested much in top-end (well, you DO have a 220, so that is self-evident! 
) and figure more grunt to be more better than the -35 would be the choice.
Besides, the -35 is a heckuva lot smaller than the -30.....so it's stronger, doesn't stick its glass chin out nearly as far.
BTW, the -35 takes a leaner jet-set than the -30 does.
Have fun!
Posted by: dougjc---------------------
Yup, I meant gnarly woods or dessert, not rev. Thanks for the correction. Anyway, I ordered a gnarly woods and turbine core II.
Posted by: kmccune---------------------
Good deal,I just remember looking for the nonexsistant Rev model myself 
and thought I'd save you some time.
Kevin
Posted by: marksharp---------------------
I think if you add a V Force 2 reed cage and RB carb mods to the -35 pipe you can have the best of both. Tractor pulling low end, great mid range and screams pretty well on top. I'm very satisfied with the combination.
Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------
Warning!! IMO alert!!
Any kdx'ers currently considering the rb mod to their carb should consider an airstryker from rb-designs. You'll get the benefit of a ron-finessed carb, newer keihin design, plus you'll still have the oem pwk to either sell, keep as a spare or put back on the bike when you sell it.
Besides, think of all the fun you'll have when your riding buddies are trying to figure out what all them hoses are doin' hanging out everywhere!
If you're a 'pre-' rb/dfII kinda rider, you're in for a huge surprise!
BTW, while the FmF 'rev' pipe may not exist by name, it is still the word that best defines the profile of the pipe, as does the word 'torque'.
I don't know what the word desert realistically implies.....a pipe that only works when it's hot? But then, it gets pretty freezin' dang cold in the deserts 'round here.........
A further btw...the dfII was the improvement that allowed me to satisfactorily use the -30 (rev profile) on my 200 in single track woodsy stuff (already had an rb-modified oem pwk). Prior to the dfII, I couldn't get an acceptable bottom-end response out of the -30. An rb-airstryker made it even better!
YeeHAw!!
Posted by: skipro3---------------------
The term desert was used to describe riding conditions that are high speed, open type riding areas and therefore high rev. The term woods was used to describe riding conditions that are lower speed and presumably lower revs. Personnally I just swap out my CS sprocket when transitioning from desert to woods. I know some here have seperate pipes for each.
FWIW: I agree with CC on the woods pipe comments he made. I have yet to dent my "woods" pipe riding where others with the "desert" pipe have. And the jetting is leaner with the woods pipe.
Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------
Yeah...I really get the 'high speed, open type riding..' idea.
I was merely being obtuse for purposes of obscuring the obviousity of the issue.
.......thought I'd try a new tack for once........
Posted by: fuzzy---------------------
LOL!
Posted by: slyder---------------------
dude the desert pipe is the way to go. a 220 has enough bottom anyway. the desert helps get a little on top. i ride tight single track with a desert pipe and it works very well. and when i come out of the woods and rip through the gears it wants to scream.
Posted by: motorpsycho---------------------
Slyder........EXACTLY what I heard. Hope I have same results! Got a desert pipe for my 220 from Santa!
Later
Posted by: agitt73---------------------
unless they changed them some of the fmf pipes have a poor fit and some
tweaking is needed on my kdx 200 all i had to do was drill 1 hole a size
larger (the lower front 1)
Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------
Most of his riding is 4th gear and below. 'More grunt... is probably better,'
he said.
..brings you to 'Dude! the desert pipe is the way to go!'?
Dude!! I see the logic of that!!
Posted by: john_bilbrey---------------------
I'm in the same boat - I can't decide between the two for my 220. I ride lots of tight woods with rocks/roots/mud, but thrown in for fun is the occasional fire road. I'm thinking that the Desert is the way to go, as my 220 has plenty of grunt down low, but seems to get "winded" pretty quickly. Somebody mentioned that upshifting was a cheap cure (after all, that's why it has 6 speeds, right?) but I think a little more on top would be ideal, especially if it didn't kill the bottom. Maybe a Woods is ideal...riding a gear taller isn't that bad of an idea. Maybe I could even go faster and fall off more!
Posted by: canyncarvr---------------------
Re: '..as my 220 has plenty of grunt down low, but seems to get "winded" pretty quickly.'
'Based on your post, I'd say you answered your own question. '
That's a statement leaning toward wanting a -30 rev profile, seems to me.
The 220 will get winded in it's oem form anyway. Cylinder port timing effects that as does the 33mm carb.
Get the -30 pipe (desert if you wish), bore the carb to 36mm and put in a downstream plenum divider (can you say 'rb'? I knew you could!) that will put back any bottom you lose with the pipe/bore combo.
.......sez me..........
Posted by: john_bilbrey---------------------
Not to hijack this thread further, but...
Does the addition of the desert pipe rob much from the bottom? If it is a minor change, then that is my choice. One other question - what about just buying a bigger carb? I've found OEMs for $142 to $160. The 35mm is $142, the 36mm is $160. Any pros/cons of this way over a rb modded carb?
Posted by: slyder---------------------
im not sure about the carb mod, havent gone there yet. i cant tell any loss of power on the bottom with the desert pipe. im fairly new to mods any way so what is a rb? sounds like i gota get one. ive already taken the top off my air box and the carb has been rejetted. also i weigh around 170 lbs. that may have an affect on bottom end performance. in nc we do get some long and steep hillclimbs. the desert pipe pulls them real good.hope this helps.
Posted by: KnoxKDX---------------------
Well, I think RB designs has you right where they want you since you're asking that question...for $165 you'll have a 36mm carb, and their awesome plenum divider...if you buy a new carb, you'll have a 36mm carb, but no divider. You could sell your old carb, but won't get enough to buy the aftermarket divider...so-they have you by the shorties!
Posted by: BJH---------------------
Besides the divider that RB installs they also do a lot of polishing and circuitry clean-up on the carb. It's kind of like porting. In short I consider the RB mod to be way better than the new 36mm OEM carb option.
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