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Kawasaki MX & Off-Road Dirt Bikes
A reason to follow service intervals for RMZ & KXF 250 owners
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[QUOTE="ochster, post: 835695, member: 17624"] Rich has summed up the yellow/green versus other colors dilemia very well. Putting that aside the RMZ is a great handling and very competitive bike. Oversize radiators on the 04's are a must with fast riders and hot climates using a 1.6 or 1.8 cap. The oem radiator shrouds limit flow out the back of the radiator. A couple of stragtegically placed holes/slots helps. As does spacing the radiators out from the frame 1/2"-3/4". We use aluminum spacers and longer bolts with a longer connecting hose on the top. At a minimum do the spacing and holes/slots with a Boyesen water impeller kit and 1.6 cap, it works. We have had good luck with Race Kool from Precision Automotive, or 80-90% water and 10-20% antifreeze. Water pump seals are short lived, keep a spare or two. Headgaskets are notorious for leaks even when new. All the fasteners on the engine cases will loosen up regularly. The fastener quality is very poor, do not over torque. This is why many have leaking center cases and right side covers. Safety wire the drain bolt, its already drilled. The flywheels have been known to seperate. Do a visual check by pulling the left side cover occasionally, you will see damage to the magneto if the center is coming loose. They do use oil when rode hard, 2-3oz. in 30 minutes is common under race conditions with a higher compression piston. A hinson clutch cover will give you added capacity and delete the cover window wich some have broke. The rear shock linkage will bend bolts under hard moto. If your going have the frame powder coated, weld up all the gussets (especially at the stem head) and reinforce the steering stop. It's tiny and when it shears it takes out the frame and fork leg. The airbox is held to the subframe with two bolts up top by the seat, locktight them. The plastic tabs on the airbox break frequently. The intake boot on the carb is loose on most all bikes when new. The band clamp (at the head) stretches and bottoms before tightening in short order. Some have lost carbs, we safety wire the carb forward to the head and use a quality clamp. The hot start cable plunger in the carb is brass. Moisture will get in thier and corrode it solid to carb body in very short order. Undo the silly plastic nut and pull it out, apply some lube (I use silicone grease), do it frequently. Be very careful rethreading the plastic nut. If you do cross thread it or ruin the brass plunger, there is a kit for this that includes everything on the end of the cable for $20. Many overtighten the valve cover bolts and pull the threads out of the cam towers. Thier is a fair amount of CDI problems, not a bad idea to carry a spare. Rich and Kibblewhite is on top of the valve situation. It will be nice when the kits are ready next month. Bronze seats and frequent tappet and oem valve replacements for precaution have been working very well. Kibblewhite did just set me up with thier new bucket design, very nice. We have never had any cam journal issues. There have been shifting issues. Mostly related to shift pawl plate wearing a groove into the pawls, and worn/ bent forks and shafts. But still some are just notchy compared to others. Rich is right about the lifespan of centercases. Ryan Abrigo picked up a private Honda ride, he may be with Motosport outlet for 05'. I have been wrenching for Cole Siebler since the outdoors. We were actually trying to secure some help for a privateer supercross team, but it's tuff to round up $60,000-$85,000. [/QUOTE]
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Kawasaki MX & Off-Road Dirt Bikes
A reason to follow service intervals for RMZ & KXF 250 owners
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