KDX Auto Clutch

[SuperhawkCB77]

I have been try to figure out what I want ( and can afford ) for my next bike. I think I have decided on a KDX 220 with an EFM auto clutch, left hand rear brake and some suspension work.

I haven't had a bike in a in long time and came across an 86 XR 250 I got fo $500 3 months ago. I put some tires, a seat cover and a Race Tech goldvalve kit for a 96 in the fork and have been ridingthe wheels off it. I can't believe how good this old thing goes in the woods. I can hang with most of the guys I ride with that all ride new KTMS and WR's. In the tight technical stuff I can usually break away from them.

So I really want to get something newer but don't want to give up low end torque and I kinda like the short wheelbase. The weight of the KDX should be about the same and everything else should be better. With the EFM auto clutch it should be awsome in tight gnarly New England stuff.

Have you guys ever tried an auto clutch on a KDX? It seems like the KDX would be an awsome bike to have the auto clutch on since everyone says it is like cheating on tough trails.

 

[krazyinski]

you will need some performance mods FMF PIPE, RB head,and carb mod or there is not much need for the auto clutch and perfomance will suffer.

 

[SuperhawkCB77]

What makes you think performance will be affected?

Keep in mind I ride places mountain goats and trials riders hang out.

 

[_JOE_]

The auto clutch helps if you find yourself shifting alot. Say tight trails with short strights. You can just leve the bike in one gear, rather than bang up and down all the time.

Isn't it funny how a bike thats a fair bit slower can be so much faster in the woods. I can get through some of our trails faster on the wifeys ttr125 than on my crf.

Sounds like a kdx will be a good choice for you. Just pick one up and ride it like it is for a while. Get a feel for it and you will pick out the areas to work on. If the riding you do is alot of low speed, I wouldn't try to build the motor up. It will just tire you out, and like you said you can already hang with much quicker bikes. Concentrate on you and how you control the bike. Good technique gets you through the woods quicker than a bunch of horsepower.

Where in New England are you?

 

[SuperhawkCB77]

I am in Southern New Hampshire (Rochester). Lots of rocks, roots, slippery leaves and tight choppy hills. Real fun stuff.

I just hate it when you have a good run and you go just a bit faster than your ability and you get snagged up in something that makes you stall when if you were just going a little slower you would have cleaned it. Seems like the auto clutch would let me ride a bit above my comfort zone and get away with a few mistakes that would cost me time if I got caught in the wrong gear in a tight spot and needed to make a quick recovery without loosing all my momentum.

I really like the idea of a lefty brake too. My right ankle has some issues with range of movement and it is really aquward timing a good brake slide if I am caught off guard.


I think I can get a good 2002 KDX 220 for $1400 or $1500 but then after I convert to a USD fork, revalve it ($500), do some carb and head mods($400), I might be better off trying to get a 2000 300EXC I know of for $2000 and put an auto clutch on that.

I really don't know what would be the best bike for me. I know I love this old XR 250 in thight stuff though. Seems like the KDX would be the closest thing to it (torque) but better.

 

[hart125]

the auto clutch works about twice as good on a 4 stroke vs a 2 stroke. you dont stall the 2 stroke as much and the clutch pull on a kdx is really easy so you can pull it even 2 hours into a race. I'd look at getting a 220 stock and then see if you need to make a bunch of changes. for the tight stuff that 220 won't need any performance stuff.just get it to stick good and make mods as you need. it would be a lot better than that 250 xr

 

[John Harris]

You might like a flywheel weight more than an auto clutch if you are worried about killing the engine in tight stuff. Also try a 12 tooth front sproket. John

 

[blackduc98]

Superhawk, you're from my neck of the woods, kinda. I came back from the toys-for-tots ride in the infamous rock gardens of Freetown MA yesterday. If you've ever been to Freetown, you know what I'm talking about. My kdx has a flywheel weight and MSR clutch perch, which does help. I was feathering the clutch a lot, and after a while I was really wishing for the smooth and easy clutch action of my montesa trials bike. From your description you ride in similar places, so I would leave the motor alone, other than to jet it properly. Concentrate on getting smooth throttle response on the low end. Add a flywheel weight, which will tame it just a little, but will help with anti-stalling a lot. And consider adding a Magura hydraulic clutch. I think Hebo makes one as well.

 

[SuperhawkCB77]

blackduc,

I wanted to do that toys for tots ride but I have had a cold all week and felt terrible. I did the King Philip Turkey run the week before in Wrenthem. Did you do that? That is what I want my bike made to do.

I kinda got this auto clutch idea from one of the B level riders I talked to at the King Philip ride. He was trading off with a friend of his that had an auto clutch on a 250X. He said he thought it was kind of a joke but after he rode it he was seriously considering one. Everyone seems to say the same thing, " it is like cheating" .

I can see how the 4 stroke would be the better match for it though. My XR doesn't really care what gear it is in. If it is lugging it still pulls you. I was theorizing the 220 would be torquey enough to run one effeciently. That hydraulic clutch and flywheel weight sound like a good idea though. :cool:

Superhawk, you're from my neck of the woods, kinda. I came back from the toys-for-tots ride in the infamous rock gardens of Freetown MA yesterday. If you've ever been to Freetown, you know what I'm talking about. My kdx has a flywheel weight and MSR clutch perch, which does help. I was feathering the clutch a lot, and after a while I was really wishing for the smooth and easy clutch action of my montesa trials bike. From your description you ride in similar places, so I would leave the motor alone, other than to jet it properly. Concentrate on getting smooth throttle response on the low end. Add a flywheel weight, which will tame it just a little, but will help with anti-stalling a lot. And consider adding a Magura hydraulic clutch. I think Hebo makes one as well.

 

[know_fear]

I have just about all the mods you can do to a KDX...RB carb,porting,FMF, re-valved KX front end,GPR dampener,2 stage reeds. The riding conditions here sound very much like yours so my next addition is an auto clutch. I have a used Revloc on the way and I'm thinking about moving the rear brake up to the left grip as well. How do you go about that? A clutch master won't necessarily work properly will it? Is there an after market kit to do this?

 

[D_Moen]

Hey KF from Chilliwhack!

Sounds like you have spend tons of money on your KDX! How did you like the RB cab and head mods?

 

[SuperhawkCB77]

Rekluse makes a left hand brake kit for their clutches. I think it could be easily adapted if it doesn't fit right up.


I can see a lefty being handy in tricky situations.

 

[blackduc98]

blackduc,
I wanted to do that toys for tots ride but I have had a cold all week and felt terrible. I did the King Philip Turkey run the week before in Wrenthem. Did you do that? That is what I want my bike made to do.

Yes, I was at the KPTR event, but I did the trials competition instead of the turkey run. I am very familiar with Wrentham trails, and they are actually quite a bit easier than Freetown. No doubt, there are rocky portions in Wrentham, but Freetown (except for the part on the parking lot side) is all rocks with just a little dirt sprinkled in. Big nasty sharp rocks. That's where I need very smooth power delivery, which is why I was slipping the clutch a lot. My kdx is just too jerky off idle even though it smooths right out by 1/4 throttle. I bought it used, and it came with FMF rev pipe and Vforce reeds. I might try FMF torque pipe or maybe a stock pipe and Boyesen power reeds. I just don't see the need for "more" power at Wrentham because I'm usually in 2-nd gear and definitely never above 3-rd, and I doubt that I've ever given it more than 1/2 throttle. My kdx is a 200, so if you get a 220 then you'll have even more bottom end. One thing that trials riding has taught me is that you can always find the right amount of power even if you are in the wrong gear - you just need to learn how to slip the clutch. That's also the key to smooooooth controllable wheelies - the kind I can use to lift the front just the right amount and put it down exactly where I want it. That's why I am so biased towards the idea of a hydraulic clutch, or maybe just try softer clutch springs. Auto clutch is a fine anti-stall idea, but if I were to get one, I would definitely keep the manual override. If you find yourself off-balance towards the rear of the bike, chances are your throttle is WFO, but if your finger is on the clutch lever then the natural death-grip reaction will get you out of trouble. Rekluse makes a Z-start Pro clutch which can be manually slipped, but unfortunately they don't make one for the KDX.

Before spending any money on the motor I would take my bike to Peter Kates at GMD Computrack in Bellingham MA and have him dial in the suspension.

As you read my comments keep in mind that at 43 years young I try to be more of a finesse rider, rather than a charging bull. Unlike me, the really fast guys just blast thru those Freetown rock gardens so fast that they literally skim the tops of the rocks. Maybe some of the folks who replied to this thread happen to be those fast guys? I guess you'll have to decide what fits your riding style best.

 

[SuperhawkCB77]

Thanks for the input blacduc.

I really liked my old XR in the little ledgy bottlenecks at the KPTR. I went around a bunch of new bikes on the old XR. I jokingly say my bike has traction control in that stuff but it is the 21 horse power keeping the tire from slipping.

Honestly I don't want to upgrade my ride for that type of terrain. I would ride my plush XR forever if that was all I rode. You can't use much power in those conditions anyway.

I just don't want to give away anything in those conditions for a bike that is better at going faster with less effort. The XR gets a little too unstable even with the Race Tech kit in the fork.


That is cool you did the trials event. I am in the market for a trials bike as well. Do you know of any sweet deals on a used trials bike?

 

[blackduc98]

That is cool you did the trials event. I am in the market for a trials bike as well. Do you know of any sweet deals on a used trials bike?

Yes I do. I'll send you a PM with info since this is really off topic in this forum.

 

[karlp]

A few years ago (like 25) I used to ride in that area. Even camped with the Boyscouts at King Phillips rock. Of course, I was riding stuff like an ST-70, KE175....
The XR250 is a pretty capable bike. The KDX is more capable, and way ahead when the suspension is upgraded. If you like the XR, I think you'll really like the KDX. The KTM is a whole nuther thing, though. It ain't an XR or KDX.
I'd say get a KDX and do the jetting and suspension. If you spare no coin on the suspension it will compete easily with any bike in the tights. I know mine will.

 

[kdxgrizzly]

Get the auto clutch,if you ride tight single track it is like cheating.The kdx 220 does have enough bottom end to run it.Best mod you can do for tight trails(motor wise).Dean You use a hydralic master on the handle bar for the rear brake.can get them thru rekluse.Lets ride some time.

 

[know_fear]

If it's like cheating I'll do it!
Right now my machine is apart for a top end, the clutch, and I'm sculpting a taller seat so it may be awhile before I'm riding.

 

[kdx/yz]

Why an auto clutch you can do so much more with a clutch.
EX. you get stuck while in 2nd gear the bike wont die if you pull in the clutch.
Unless you have a tork converter. Still not as much fun.

 

[kdx/yz]

oh yeah put a 200 carb on it the stock200 carb is better than the 220. 4mm bigger 2hp

 

[SuperhawkCB77]

Since I started this thread I got an 08 300 XC KTM with a Recluse and a left hand rear brake. It is everything I thought this set up would be. The 300 is the best bike for this combo with all the frunt it has. I bet the KDX would have been nice though. I still have the KDX for a loaner bike. Anyone that tries my bike in nasty trails says I am cheating.

 

[sr5bidder]

that would be cool for the wife man but what do you do when all of a suddena nasty ditch comes up or a log around the bend when normally you would hit the clutch a second and rev it and snap the clutch out to lofrt your self over it?

 

[SuperhawkCB77]

Not really sure how that would work out on the kdx but my 300 just lifts the front tire when I roll on the throttle. My old XR 250 lifted the front wheel in any gear with out cluthing it if I slapped my but on the seat a little. I think I could get by on my kdx with an auto clutch pretty good.

 

[David_L6]

that would be cool for the wife man but what do you do when all of a suddena nasty ditch comes up or a log around the bend when normally you would hit the clutch a second and rev it and snap the clutch out to lofrt your self over it?

With a Revloc Dyna Ring you just hit the clutch as you normally would - 100% override.

 

[bikerman]

your old xr is great in the woods. try a 280 kit for it. Powroll makes the best kit. it really helps and reliablity doesnt suffer. the xr is heavier than a kdx. ( i have both) it is fun to outrun new bikes in the woods with older ones...as for the auto clutch...i have friends that have them. they are nice, but expensive. its a stall converter for a bike. you could change your front sprocket on either bike to help with stalling. dropping 1 tooth on front equals adding three on rear sprocket. 20 bucks verses 300.00- 500.00... I would not trade either of my bikes for a new " wonder bike" in the woods. both the xr and kdx have been super reliable. you dont need 50 hp to race in the woods you need light weight.