KX or KLX fork coversation for KDX?

[stevewr450f]

I have an 04 KDX 220. Have read a few threads about converting over to a inverted KX or KLX fork The KLX fork interests me because it would be easier to run the headlight which I like to have on in the woods - helps prevents head on collisions.

Anyway, as I understand I would need to get off ****:

- forks, axle, front wheel, top tripple clamp - press KDX stem into KX/KLX stem. Brake rotor

Are the KLX forks shorter? I have heard that the KX forks are one inch longer and that could mess up the bike geomentry.

My question, is that for an 04 and given that I want to run a headlight what would be easier. What year forks would be the best.

Money - somewhat - is not an object. A grand or less total for conversation. I got plenty of time. Good winter project.

 

[Green Hornet]

KX Forks...Not the KLX
KLX has conmpression adjustments ONLY, KX Has Compression & Rebound...
Headlight mounts will work up top, bottom you can use Zip-Ties.....
Putting the forks low in the TT will take the geometery problem away, BUT you must set the rear race sag

 

[stevewr450f]

OK - KX 125 or 250?

What years are better. What should I search for on ****?

Thanks, Steve

 

[Green Hornet]

I have a 99-01 KX250 set-up..The Stem from the KDX TT pressed into the KX TT with NO MODIFICATION only new steering bearings. Your 04 should press right in also. 125 vs. 250 is the spring. The 125 is set for a lighter rider, BUT you will have to have the forks set-up for your terrian anyway. I would look for the newest forks possible. You will need the TT, Wheel & Forks from the same production time ie: 99-01...
ie: A 1998 TT WILL NOT FIT into 99-01 Forks....
So check the part #s through Kawasaki for proper compatabilty

 

[AZRickD]

On my 2003 KDX 220R, I put a 1998 KX250 fork and triple tree set on along with a 2001 wheel and axle. The consensus is nothing older than 1996, and newer is better with the 2003 forks being particularly nice for reasons I've forgotten.

BTW, the KDX front caliper bolted right on the KX.

If you want to maintain the trail-ability, you'll be wise to consider redoing the shim-stack and taking a few of a certain variety out to make it more cushy.

I weigh 190 and ride at about 225. The KX250 has a .43 spring in front. I bought a 5.2 spring for the rear and tapped the screw down about an inch and a half until my sag was set to conventional specs (static sag was 1 inch and my total (race sag) was 4 inches). This is important because the KX front will tend to rise up on you on hill climbs if the rear squats too much.

Since the KX forks are about an inch longer, I set mine up as far as the bars would allow (about 11/16th of an inch). My KDX forks were up about 1/2 inch.

One advised that you take good measurements of your bike's geometry (sag, rake&trail,) as well as putting a bubble level on your seat (and marking the spot where it is level). This information will be used as part of your info to set the geometry.

After that you'll have to work with the clickers as you do your practice rides to see how the front and rear behave over bumps, jumps and whoops. I had to slow up the rebound on the rear shock and might do the same for the front.

There is a definate improvement with the KX hardware, but you'll still have to tune it to your needs.

I used two pair of rubber mounts for the headlight shroud. It was a little tight on top, but was fine on bottom. Don't get them from Kawasaki. They are too expensive.

Contact me if you need more info.

Rick

 

[muddertrucker]

So a 96 front end should work....Right.

 

[Rippy]

On my 2003 KDX 220R, I put a 1998 KX250 fork and triple tree set on along with a 2001 wheel and axle. The consensus is nothing older than 1996, and newer is better with the 2003 forks being particularly nice for reasons I've forgotten.

BTW, the KDX front caliper bolted right on the KX.

If you want to maintain the trail-ability, you'll be wise to consider redoing the shim-stack and taking a few of a certain variety out to make it more cushy.

I weigh 190 and ride at about 225. The KX250 has a .43 spring in front. I bought a 5.2 spring for the rear and tapped the screw down about an inch and a half until my sag was set to conventional specs (static sag was 1 inch and my total (race sag) was 4 inches). This is important because the KX front will tend to rise up on you on hill climbs if the rear squats too much.

Since the KX forks are about an inch longer, I set mine up as far as the bars would allow (about 11/16th of an inch). My KDX forks were up about 1/2 inch.

One advised that you take good measurements of your bike's geometry (sag, rake&trail,) as well as putting a bubble level on your seat (and marking the spot where it is level). This information will be used as part of your info to set the geometry.

After that you'll have to work with the clickers as you do your practice rides to see how the front and rear behave over bumps, jumps and whoops. I had to slow up the rebound on the rear shock and might do the same for the front.

There is a definate improvement with the KX hardware, but you'll still have to tune it to your needs.

I used two pair of rubber mounts for the headlight shroud. It was a little tight on top, but was fine on bottom. Don't get them from Kawasaki. They are too expensive.

Contact me if you need more info.

Rick

Hey,

Just picked up a KDX 220r 2001. I believe similar model and parts as yours. I am interested in swapping out the shocks and doing something as similar as you but the thing is, I have no clue where to start because I am fairly green to the mechanical side. I am also wondering what octane fuel you run in yours and what mix you use. I was running 95 octane with 32:1 ratio. I was wondering if I would be ok to use a 91 octane?

 

[Okiewan]

I was running 95 octane with 32:1 ratio. I was wondering if I would be ok to use a 91 octane?

You're good either way.

 

[Rippy]

You're good either way.

Thanks much dude. I have another issue that just occurred last night when I was riding and I am not mechanically handy, hopefully you can assist me or anyone for that matter. I have attached a photo of what I believe is some oil leaking from my exhaust. It wasnt happening before and the only thing I did different was add 10w40 gear oil and I didnt drain it prior. Please let me know when you can, thanks much.

 

[Okiewan]

Search for "spooge" .

FYI, you should start your own threads when asking questions that don't pertain to the original thread.

 

[Rippy]

Search for "spooge" .

FYI, you should start your own threads when asking questions that don't pertain to the original thread.

1. I dont know how to start a thread
2. The question was for you.

Thanks dude