RM250 Right Crank Seal Removal

Joined
May 1, 2007
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#1
Trying to get the cog off where the right crank seal is located on a 2000 RM250. Whats the easiest way to do this? And whats the easiest way to install the new seal? I don't have the tools the shops have, but I do have a manual. Any help is appreciated.
 
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Joined
Jul 8, 2007
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#2
use a pick to remove the old seal, and a socket of the same size and a mallet to install it. BE CAREFULL NOT TO PUSH IT BACK TO FAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Mar 24, 2006
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#4
if you dont have an inpact wrench you can wedge a shop towell in between the ring gear on the clutch and the crank shaft gear. this will lock the gears so you go to town with a ratchet.
hope this helps
 
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Sep 12, 2006
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#5
You may have to remove the clutch in order to get the primary gear completely slid off of the crankshaft.
 
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#6
Thanks again. I'm 99% sure its the main crank seal thats gone, but how can I be sure before I take it off, will it look damaged? I recently had the bike rebuilt and it was spitting oil like mad out of the exhaust and had little power up top. Im new to 2strokes so any help or insight is greatly appreciated.
 
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#7
Spitting oil out the pipe is normally caused by rich jetting but a bad right side seal can cause this too. Symptom of a bad right side seal could also be a loss of transmission oil due to it being sucked into the top end.
 
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#8
I wouldn't imagine it would be jetting because it was fine before the seizure and rebuild. BTW, does anyoen know what size the nut is that holds on the clutch basket?

also, one revv will cover my hand in oil if i hold it behind the exhaust, i wouldn't expect that much oil is comming out of the gas
 
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Oct 19, 2006
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#9
I used an impact wrench to remove the clutch hub and crank gear nuts/bolts. I drove sheet metal screws into the seal and used a small pair of Channel Lock pliers on the heads of the screws to pry the seal out. My right side crank seal problem made itself apperent first by causing gouge to be worn in the piston over the exhaust bridge followed by frequent plug fouling (the plug appered clean but there was aluminum dust from the tranny that caused it to short circuit). The bike probably burned 100cc's of oil out of the transmission per day. There was no real difference in spooge before and after. If your engine locked up, check your crank breaings while everything is open. Grab on to the end of the crankshaft and try to jerk it up and down. There should be no movement. A little in and out is ok. Do this on the flywheel side as well. I replaced my crank seals only to have a crank bearing fail shortly afterwards. I basically wasted the $10 for the right side crank seal.
 
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#10
Thanks for the help so far, I got down to the seal and it is a tad bit crooked, but not much. It is maybe one or two MM furthur in on one side than the other, would this create a leak? I'm going to change it out anyway and reseat the new one flat.
 
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#11
AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHDAL;SJFASO;DIL;KNGFASL;DHGASL;DIGF

My right case is cracked. I'm soo pissed. I now officially hate bikes. Anyone know where to get one of these without spending an arm and a leg?s
 
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Sep 9, 2006
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#12
Well.. if you can de-assemble the whole thing ang get the right part of the case off you can take it to a whelder and see what thay can do....

They can usally wheld anything up...

It would probebley cost $50 to get whelded... And thats alot cheaper than a new case
 
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#14
I'm going to take it to a welder i know thats supposed to be one of the best. I'm just going to leave it in the bike and carry the whole thing to him
 
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