Building a Fork Oil Level Gauge
By
Canadian DaveIf you’ve ever purchased even the most basic motorcycle specific tool you know three things. One that the proper tool is indispensable, two they’re expensive and three you don’t always get what you paid for. Here is an inexpensive fork oil level gauge you can build yourself, its indispensable and it works great.
Getting started
- here’s a fairly basic list of materials you’ll need to get together. I’ve included the ideal part and then a replacement if required. Some of these parts are semi specialized so you’re not going to be able to pick them up at the corner hardware store. I’ve included suggestions where you should be able to find them. The replacements you should be able to pick up at a hardware or automotive parts store.
50cc or larger syringe. You can
pick one up at the local farm supply store.
2 feet of semi rigid ¼ inch
plastic tubing. You can pick it up at the farm supply store or any hardware store.
One foot of bendable (annealed)
¼ inch stainless steal tubing. Any other bendable steal tubing like a length of
automotive break line will work too. Grab the Yellow Pages and look under instrumentation
or metal for the stainless.
1/4 inch tubing union (See picture below) or a 3 inch length of clear ¼ inch gas line.
A 2.5 inch square piece of Plexiglas
greater than 3/8 of an inch thick. Look in the Yellow Pages under plastic. You could
substitute it with aluminum or oak.
A ¼ inch by 2 inch long ( or
something close ) course threaded bolt and washer plus a matching tap and the appropriate
drill bit. A socket head cap screw works really nicely.
A hack saw with a fine tooth
blade
¼ drill bit.
Putting it together. Assembling the gauge is
fairly easy. If you look at the picture you can pretty much see where everything goes.
Gather your parts and follow along.
Optional - Bend a 90 degree
angle in the steal tubing about 3 inches from the end. If you don’t have access to a
tube bender you can make a decent bend by wrapping it around a piece of 2 to 2.5 inch
steal pipe.
Using the union attach the
steal tubing to the semi rigid plastic tubing. If you have substituted the union for a
length of gas line force the steal tubing half way into the clear ¼ inch gas line and
force the semi rigid plastic tubing into the other end of the gas line. If it’s
difficult then heat the gas line with a hair dryer to make it more flexible and lube it
with some oil.
Insert the free end of the semi
rigid plastic tubing over the end of the syringe.
Drill a ¼ inch hole through
the middle of the Plexiglas.
Using the hack saw cut from the
center of one side of the Plexiglas into the ¼ inch hole.
Drill and tap a hole ½ inch from
the edge of the Plexiglas through the cut about 2 ¼ inches deep.
Thread in the bolt / washer.
Slide the free end of the steal
tubing through the Plexiglas and slide it about ¾ of the way up.
Hay that’s it, you’re
done.
Using your new gauge
. At this point I’m going to assume you have completely serviced and bled the forks as out lined in the factory service manual.Using a tape measure or ruler slide the Plexiglas block to the desired fork oil level. A standard 1995 to 2000 KDX setting is 100mm form the top of the fork with the forks completely bottomed, the cap off and the springs removed. In this case the bottom of the block should be set at 100mm from the bottom of the steal tube and the nut tightened to lock it in place.
Fill the forks so the oil level is over 100mm from the top. Insert the fork oil level gage as close to center as you can (the piston rod might be in the way). Draw the excess oil out of the fork using the syringe. Your fork oil will now be set at 100mm form the top.
If you have any questions please feel free to post them on the
JustKDX Forum. If you have any comments please feel free to email me at cdave@dirtrider.netHappy KDX’n,
David