93 YZ125 Clutch problem? or is this normal?

[DropDTop]

Brief history:

Got a 93' YZ 125 with a shot top end and in need of lots of repair.

After replacing the topend and chaging the fluid, brakes and misc parts it finally runs good except the clutch is not right.

I cannot start the bike in gear with the clutch depressed when cold.

It seems like the clutch will not release. I have adjusted the cable to spec and even have more tension then recommended to pull it more then required to release.

I pulled the clutches and steels apart and the clutches look like new and the steals were spotted from the clutches from having sit so long. I used 400grit wet paper to get the steals looking like new. I checked but the steels and clutches for warp and they are perfect.

I put the whole thing back together and it worked good with no oil in the case. but as soon as I added oil the clutch seemed to not want to release almost like the oil made the clutches stick together.

I originally had Mobil 1 5W30 in but went to yamaha and the guy gave me a quart of 5W30 yamaha 4-stroke oil.

Is motor oil supposed to be used where it calls for 5W-30 Transmission oil????

So I start the bike and let it warm up.. (I have to start it in neutral) if while running I put the bike in gear the engine dies.

I am able however to give it some throttle and kick it into 1st while holding the brake and clutch and the engine boggs and the bike jumps and then it kinda heats up the clutch to where it acts normal... After its 100% warm the clutch acts normal and I can shut it off and restart like it never happened.. but as soon as it cools down I have to go threw it all over again.

Also I want to say HI to everyone as this is my first post.

Thanx,
Brad M

 

[AssistSuper]

My bike does the same exact thing buddy. From what I hear, it's normal.

I always start mine in neutral when it's cold. Although mine generally won't die when I kick it in to 1st. It will from time to time, but if I'm wanting to sit there with it in gear when I'm first starting it, I'll hang on the front brake some right after I kick it in gear so it won't creep. And, like yours, once it's warm, it works just like a clutch on a car.

 

[ComradeMikhail]

It did it to me too, and I was really confused until I started reading about it on here. From what i Can figure, until the bike is warmed up, and the oil is worked into the plates, the oil sticks the plates together until it starts getting warmed up, but I'm just theorizing.

 

[RED EXPRESS]

That is a common problem on ceramic clutches as it takes them longer to absorb the oil into the plates which allows it to slip.

 

[xr250r1922]

a good clutch should act that way. my friends kx has a racing clutch and you have to reem it to put in first, and its adjusted perfectly. after a lap it stop acting as bad though. probably what these guys said, its normal. oh and same thing, i always forget i try holding the clutch in while its in first and starting it and the tire starts tries to turn. i dont know why its like that, it just is.

 

[Harley_rider]

Motor oil can be used on wet clutches but you have make sure and not use oil that meets "energy saving" specs, the Energy saving oils (usually 10 w 30, 5 w 30) has additives that will cause clutch slippage, most 10 w 40 and above do not have the additives.
If you look on the oil bottle their is a circle that gives the oil specs, if it is eneregy saving it will say so in the circle.
Most dirt riders use oil such as yama lube.
carquest sales ATV/motorcycle oil that is formulated for wet clutches for $3.10
I cant remember the brand but it's alot cheaper then yama lub.
colder weather will cause the oil to thicken and cause clutch dragging also.
the purpose of the oil in a wet clutch is for cooling the clutch plates, without it the clutch will burn out.