Need help removing kick start

[Brandon H.]

I just bought a 94' Kx125, and it will need the top end rebuilt, and a new rod bearing on the bottom end, but im going to replace all the bearings and seals. I am trying to tear the case apart, but im having trouble on removing the kick start. I do I press it off?? :bang:

No I haven't bought a service manual yet, and I plan to, but right now I want to get as far as I can, then before I split the case I will buy one

 

[IndyMX]

It should pull right off.

You may have to wiggle it around a bit to get it to come off, or try using something to pry against the backside..

Just be careful that you don't use too much force, you could damage the cover if you pry to hard against it.

 

[sharky243]

If it's been on there awhile, you may need to use a penetrating oil such as WD-40 or Release All. You can try this too, re-install the kicker bolt but leave it out about 1\4 inch or so. Next, take a hammer and LIGHTLY tap on the head of the bolt while pulling in the kicker. It should eventualy slide off the shaft.

 

[Brandon H.]

Ok well I sprayed a little PB-Blaster on it, then tapped the backside on the kick start lever with a piece of wood, and it worked its way off.

Where can I find a manual for this bike?? I have been trying to research on taking apart a case, but I can not find anything.

 

[IndyMX]

Try repairmanuals.com for a service manual.

Splitting the cases on that should be pretty easy.

Take the clutch, primary gear, shift shaft off from the clutch side. And the flywheel off of the ignition side..

Then you should be able to remove all of the bolts that hold the cases together, and start applying pressure with your "case splitter tool" ( I use a $12 steering wheel puller from AutoZone).

If you've done things right, the halves should start to pull apart. You may have to use a little encouragement around the alignment dowels.. usually the back part of the cases, where the swingarm goes thru will be a little resistant to coming apart.. A light tap with a plastic hammer will help get them to move.

If you don't have a manual, make sure to take photos during the tear down process so you'll have a reference when you go to put it back together.

 

[Brandon H.]

Sweet bro, thanks a lot. I was just at Autozone, so im going back to rent the steering wheel puller. I have built truck motors before, so I understand piston clearances and such, I just don't want to fock anything up. I am thinking about taking a bunch of pictures and doing this without a manual.

What size should I lay the case down to keep the tranny gears inside of it, I mean... I should keep the side that has the chain sproket up correct??

Are there things I need to mark that need to go back in the SAME position, you know just the small important things I need to know.

 

[IndyMX]

By design, you'll have to pull the cases on the ignition side.

You may have to make a trip to Lowe's to get some metric bolts & washers to fit the
cases.

I got some that are about 4 inches long x 6mm.

The bolts that came with the puller weren't metric and were way too big anyway.

Usually the trans won't just fall apart. Pull it slow, and keep the clutch side down, then take some pics.

Best bet is to run a piece of wire around the shafts, from end to end, so that nothing falls off while you have it out.

Make sure to pay close attention to how the shift forks & shift drum go together. In the gear boxes I've had apart, it seems as if they only really went together one way, and almost fell together.

 

[Brandon H.]

Ok so 4 inch long by 6mm botls work?? I will stop by lowes on the way to my girlfriends house tonight. As far as the puller, would the steering wheel puller work, or a harmonic balancer puller.

 

[IndyMX]

Ok so 4 inch long by 6mm botls work?? I will stop by lowes on the way to my girlfriends house tonight. As far as the puller, would the steering wheel puller work, or a harmonic balancer puller.

Either should work..

I use 4 inch bolts.. You may or may not need longer ones.

the 4 inch bolts are what I was able to get.

 

[Brandon H.]

Ok, cool. I will get some tonight.

Other things I would like to know. The clutch basket has a big nut on it, a nut bigger then what I have so im going to have to run down to sears and pick one up for my impact wrench. Any idea what size it is?? I heard it was either 26-27mm.

Do the clutch disks have to go back into the clutch basket in a specific order?? I know its clutch/plate/clutch and so on, but anything other then
that?
Also what website do you guys recomend I buy replacement parts from, or should I get them from a Kawasaki dealer.

I am going to be full of questions, so bear with me guys. I appreciate all the help so far, this forum rocks!!! :nod: :ride:

 

[Brandon H.]

Ok so here is what I want to know. I know im going to need to rebuild or replace the crank, since the bearing on the rod is pretty stiff. IDK how much it would cost to have the crank fixed (if it even needs it), so when I split the case I will find out. There is one thing that is really bothering me lately, thats how long each parts will last. That will help me figure out what needs to be replaced.
How many hours does...
a rod last before needing replaced??
crank??
crank bearings??
other bearings??
I know there is no answer to that, but can I get an estimate??
I will check them all and replace any that are not smooth or have play in them, but if they look and feel ok, does that mean keep them. Does the crank and rod only last so long untill u have to buy a new one.

 

[IndyMX]

Ok so here is what I want to know. I know im going to need to rebuild or replace the crank, since the bearing on the rod is pretty stiff. IDK how much it would cost to have the crank fixed (if it even needs it), so when I split the case I will find out. There is one thing that is really bothering me lately, thats how long each parts will last. That will help me figure out what needs to be replaced.
How many hours does...
a rod last before needing replaced??
crank??
crank bearings??
other bearings??
I know there is no answer to that, but can I get an estimate??
I will check them all and replace any that are not smooth or have play in them, but if they look and feel ok, does that mean keep them. Does the crank and rod only last so long untill u have to buy a new one.

A service manual will detail all the service intervals.

You really should buy one first.

 

[Brandon H.]

I am looking around for a service manual.. I will pick one up ASAP. I need to get a flywheel remover now, that pretty much has me stopped.

What are some BIG websites to order from??? I want to price a bunch or stuff like, wheel and engine bearings, sprokets, seals and stuff. But I also want to try and order it all from the same place.

 

[IndyMX]

I am looking around for a service manual.. I will pick one up ASAP. I need to get a flywheel remover now, that pretty much has me stopped.

What are some BIG websites to order from??? I want to price a bunch or stuff like, wheel and engine bearings, sprokets, seals and stuff. But I also want to try and order it all from the same place.

rockymountainatv.com
bikebandit.com
servicehonda.com
motosport.com


All good sources for parts & tools.

 

[Brandon H.]

im going to barnes and nobles tomorrow to see if I can order the manual there. If not I will try online.

Not much progress, but lots of cleaning. One of the hardest things for me to decide is sleeving vs. boring and replating the bore. I heard the piston will last longer being plated, but I like the idea of just being able to bore and replace piston/ring and go with the sleeve. A little power loss isn't a big deal to me since I dont race. Olny thing negative I can think about the sleeve is it expansion when its hot/cold, and how I heard the piston doesn't last as long.

really how long can u expect a piston to live in a sleeved bore before it needs to be replace? How long do the sleeves last before neeeding another rebore (on a bike thats maintained correctly)? Im sure the manual doesn't cover that so I will ask it here since I can not decide, and money is tight.

Also what do u guys use to pretect the frame from scratches from boots/riding gear. I am thinking about putting some bedliner on there, but idk if there are other options. Is there a clear strong tape I can use?

Im a noobie when it comes to bikes, and 2 strokes :yikes:. I use to ride a 400ex, but then I fell in love with this bike :ride: