Bailey28

Member
May 1, 2005
32
0
YAAAAY! I am headed out to the garage to replace the stock boat anchor pipe with the Platinum 2 woods pipe. I have a ton of jets on hand as well as needles to play with.

I will try a DGJ clip 3 with a #6 slide, 40 pilot, 152 main, BR7ES, 1 1/2 out air screw, no lid for the first combo in 80 degree weather and see how it does. I am waiting on a DEK, DGN, CGN, DGQ, EEL AND EGN to play with. I still have the CCL, CCM, BEL, BEM, and an AEL to play with for now. I think the A and B tapers may be worthless, I want to get the straight diameter right to stop the four stroking first. I have a set of Boyesen 607 2 stage epoxy reeds on hand, but I want to do only one thing at a time so I know what each single change did. Last week, put the reeds in with the stock pipe and it ran so rich even with the 40 pilot that it fouled a plug in 3 minutes. Stock reeds went back in after that.

Yamalube 2R 32:1 93 octane pump gas stock gearing, bike from new has maybe 10 hours on it. Belray filter oil, clean filter, no lid.

Full report later....
 

Bailey28

Member
May 1, 2005
32
0
Learned a thing or two while out there for the past few hours...

* the pipe gets hot as sh[+ when riding in SHORTS! I burnt the pee out of my leg and now have a large red blister on my calf. I now realize the Platinum 2 sticks out much farther than the stock pipe.

All needles are worthless except for the stock needle, on clip one. DGJ, ran ok when cold. Hot it was too rich all the way through except for the top end, if I could nurse the engine up there without bogging out.


CCL, CCM, anything larger than the stock "Q" diameter bogged when hot. I even installed the 40 pilot jet, and kept the 152 main. The air screw was 3 1/2 out and the air temp was 83 degrees F, bike in grass/ shallow sand.

The best combo for the day ended up being:

Yamalube 2R 32:1 fresh 93 octane
No aibox lid
Belray oiled clean filter
Air screw 3 1/2 out
40 pilot
152 main
R1147K 1st clip
stock reeds
BR7ES plug
Pro Circuit Platinum 2
#6 slide
no idle

bike was snappy, but still four stroked a bit due to the B taper. It responded well to snap open tests in 1st and 2nd gear, walking speed. I managed to wheelie it for about 40 yards in 4th gear without yanking on the bars, "full" wheelie... Mid -top the bike ran like my 04 YZ250, It was that close in power!! Absolutely hauled the mail!! I want the 0-1/4 throttle where the slide and needle diameter to be right now. Plug still dark coffee brown/black in places. If the airscrew was out less than 3 turns I got a "kack" sound upon decel after the bike loaded up> (Ring... ding.... ding....KACK!..... ding. ))


I want to keep the leaner straight diameter needles because of the snap, but try the DGN, DGQ, the EGN and maybe even an EGQ or EGP. I will get a 38 or a 35 pilot if someone wants to send me one to try! I can't imagine putting the Boyesen reeds in now, as they will make the bike run even more rich. This motor seems to need NO gas! I can see almost ending up with a E taper, Q diameter, 1st or 2nd clip, 150 main, 35 pilot, 2 1/2 out on the screw before the reeds! Why so lean?????
 

soldsoul4foos

Member
May 5, 2005
58
0
damn i wish i had all that knowledge to screw with my 03' kdx. :( i'm going to chicken route i think. have a real solid mechanic replace the stock top end. and send the carb out to RB.
 
Jan 16, 2005
145
0
Bailey, you just gave me a huge headache, but I'm glad there's guys like you and many more on here who do their homework and field test these combos, it is the only way to get the bike to run to it's full potential.

Better put some salve on that leg, those burns can get nasty.
 

Bailey28

Member
May 1, 2005
32
0
I am learning more every time I get the chance to experiment and by no means am I an expert. The combinations that I try are a result of reading all the searched jetting posts on this board which are very helpful, but ultimately I must find the settings that work for ME. With the exception of the YZ250, I had to change the jetting on all of the other motorcycles I have ever owned. So far the list includes in order:

83 Yamaha PW80K
88 KX80N1 big wheel model
92 YZ125
83 GPZ550H1 street bike
01 DRZ400S converted to trail/mx
00 ZRX1100 converted to ZX11 engine specs
04 YZ 250S1 2 stroke mx
05 KDX200
03 Hyosung sense scooter (yes, you can change the needle clip position in this too, :nener:


I will try the next combo to see what changes in the 0 to 1/4 throttle are made:

38 pilot
DGQ needle 3rd clip to start
152 main, maybe 150 because DGQ needle tip is smaller in diameter
2 out pilot to start

all other items like location, temp, gas, mix, will remain the approximately the same. Again, this is what might work well for me. A lot of guys on here that probably forgot more than I will ever know, like Canyoncarver, Accutemp, gearloose, etc. say that their C and D tapers with the K and L diameters are working for them and their set up. Right now, I can't successfully run those diameter needles because they make MY bike run waaay to rich down low. That is why I am stuck down in the N-Q diameter range.
 

m0rie

Member
Nov 18, 2002
469
0
Jetting is a very personal thing. What works for your bike may not work on anothers. With that said a DGQ does seem a little on the extreme side. I'd question if there isn't something else thats not quite right with the setup. Have you checked that your float height is set correctly? On the lowend of the spec even. Also that the slide is closing completely and correctly? With the stock PWK and the #5 slide that it has the DDx needles seem to be a better match. However your engine could be the one that breaks the mold so to speak. :-)

*edit*
After re-reading your first post it looks like your using a #6 slide. Is that a typo or are you really using a #6 slide? If so did you recut your stock #5 slide or purchase another #6 slide. If you purchased one you need to verify that the slide is closing correctly. The stock slide is the same that is used in the airstryker carbs, not a standard pwk. If you get the wrong one the slide will not close all the way.
 

Bailey28

Member
May 1, 2005
32
0
Mo-

I cut my slide to a #6. I checked to see if the slide closes all the way and it seems to be. I only sanded/filed the opening wedge part of the slide to 6mm from the bottom. It seemed to help but if I run anything bigger than a Q I have a hard time with it loading up down low. I have the mid-top running great, just have to fix the low. I got my new needle set last night, and a 38 pilot from a shop in town. I will try it and post back soon.

I think most people would just shut up and ride it as it is now, but I happen to be really picky about throttle response and low end as I tend to do some tight woods riding. With my bikes I am not one to leave it well enough alone. I have to make it damn near perfect! I never take my bikes to a shop, with the exception of having a suspension revalve on one of my YZ's. I did the shim mod on my KDX forks and love it.
 
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