fishhead

die you sycophant !
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May 22, 2000
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wr250f won what? The hard to start contest after a stall in a tight hard woods section? I'd go for the ktm 400 if I wanted a 4 stroke:)
 

marcv125

Member
Oct 29, 2001
727
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oh yeah fishhead like i said isnt the 400 4 stroke more like a 250 2stroke? I think this b/c the yz400 was a m/x bike that competed in the 250 class? Also how much is the bike? Its is really not that big of an issue but i would like to know? thanks.
 

fishhead

die you sycophant !
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May 22, 2000
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I considered the 250 and the 400. Close to same power output, same chassis, springs are different. Around here 4 strokes seem to be at a premium but 2 strokes are cheaper.
 

agitt73

~SPONSOR~
May 11, 2000
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IM STOKED I GET TO PICK UP MY NEW O2 EXC 200
BAD NEWS WEATHER IS COLD I DONT WANT TO BREAK
HER IN UNTIL IT WARMS A LITTLE:aj: :moon:
 

fishhead

die you sycophant !
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May 22, 2000
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rock and and roll, dude!
It can't be too cold
check the sag and tighten all the bolts run it through some heat cycles and ride easy for the first tank
 

agitt73

~SPONSOR~
May 11, 2000
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what is the actual break in time
i here it takes 10 hours for the susspension:aj:
 

fishhead

die you sycophant !
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May 22, 2000
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I was told anywhere from 3 heat cycles to 10 hours which is a long time. I ran 1 tank and it was getting pretty free but the second tank freed up a little more. I just wouldn't race it or pull big hills or deep sand at big throttle openings till you get a couple tanks thru it. the oem jetting is pretty rich so you won't hurt it that way when you want a jetting recipe post back. Check the forks for binding at the axle pinch bolts and it may take a while for the suspension to slick up. I changed oil after about 5 hours. locktight the kickstart bolt and the subframe bolts saftey wire and anti sieze the brake pins and lock tight the caliper bolts. Locktight everything you want to keep together and anti seize everything you want to take apart.
 

OrangeCrush

Member
Feb 25, 2002
40
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It's all good

I think all the bikes on todays market are of excellent build and quality. I say pick your favorite color and more importantly how many times you wanna kick it.................

I just purchased a 300exc and I pray to the lord above 2 strokes never get banned. This bike starts easy, runs great, hauls serious ass and the best part for me is NO VALVE ADJUSTMENT INTERVALS!!!!!!!!!

Engine longevity wasn't ever a thought, if she blows up I'll just rebuild her. Throw a valve on a 4 stroke and well your pretty much f----d. Prepare for the massive labor list from hell, to recut the seats, put new valves in, possible new cam chain, bearingsv and the list goes on..... blah blah blah.................:eek:

My 2 schillings worth on the matter......................:p
 

OrangeCrush

Member
Feb 25, 2002
40
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Congrats...............

Originally posted by agitt73
IM STOKED I GET TO PICK UP MY NEW O2 EXC 200
BAD NEWS WEATHER IS COLD I DONT WANT TO BREAK
HER IN UNTIL IT WARMS A LITTLE:aj: :moon:

Have fun on your new pumpkin, I've no doubt you'll be grinning from ear to ear very soon........................:aj:
 

DougRoost

~SPONSOR~
May 3, 2001
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How is the power characteristic compared to the KDX? I know many of you have switched from the KDX to the KTM 200 and all seem pleased with the move. I've been considering both and would prefer the KTM due to better suspension and overall quality, plus I like the concept of a 200cc engine in a 125 frame (Kawi should offer their KDX engine in a KX125 frame, too bad). I have heard great things about the 200 E/XC but some folks recently warned me it has quite a hit when it comes on the pipe compared to something like a KDX. Power is always good, but not necessarily if it's sudden.

Any other insight you can share comparing the 2 for trail riding and hare scrambles would be appreciated.
 

socal scott

Member
Nov 2, 2001
101
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Doug, the bike will lugg down well, but not torquey enough under load ie..grades. Yes, a bit more effort in slow sections, but you'll be faster over all.

* A few affective and affordable mods that will boost torque yet keep it tame yet crisp.
-DDK needle #3 or CEK(smoother) w/42p/180m (sea level).
Jetting is huge on these bikes.
-Thinnest base gasket in conjunction with reshaped combustion chamber($50)...gasket moves ports lower(torque) and chamber reduces compression(less hit).
-Moose Racing's "Torque Ring" installed at reed block($25).
-Boyesen RAD-Valve gives a broad, smooth yet stronger power-band($160).
-FMF Gnarly pipe w/Turbine Core II silencer($280).


Good luck
 

DougRoost

~SPONSOR~
May 3, 2001
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Scott, thanks that's just the kind of info I was looking for! I'd heard about the base gasket selection but you gave me the info behind it. I don't mind it not having enough torque up a grade since it is not a 4 stroke, i.e.- I expect to have to carry momentum up a hill and keep it revving.

BTW, is the RAD valve the one you want or the V-Force Delta 2? This may only apply to the larger KTM 2 strokes but thought I'd ask since they apparently are great for low end torque.
 

geremacheks

~SPONSOR~
Feb 14, 2002
484
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I have the 00 EX/C 200. Has anybody mentioned the surprising amount of torque this machine has in the first three gears. And down low, in super tight woods, you can crawl with beautiful throttle control, almost like a trials bike. What a good all around bike. And it's stock. I'm 5-10, 180 # geared up.
 

socal scott

Member
Nov 2, 2001
101
0
Yo Doug,

The Delt II has two settings, one for overall increase(recomended) and the other for pulling tree stumps out(not recom.). The latter uses up the reeds in short order.
The RAD dyno-chart I saw confirms a 5hp jump at the start of the curve and the hp peak is transformed in to a platue. I haven't seen a chart for the Delta II, but the RAD chart confirms that there's more going on than simply better throttle response. You can't go wrong with either one of these and I can't tell you which is best. You'll have costlier reed replacement with the Delta, twice the reeds. Remember it's hard to go by others advice at times.
Many riders confuse increased throttle response with actual power increases or impressive torque with luggability alone. True, the KTM won't sign-off when lugged way down, but it won't get out of it's own way unless you down shift either. Not good in slow/moderate speed, graded trail sections, unless you are a slow rider. One uses more energy when on the pipe to maintain a decent pace. 250's were stompin' me that rarely stayed with me when on my old KX 250 or KDX.
Good thing you know to keep your momentum, my '89 KDX requiered just that, but more so with the KTM. Come to think of it, I used to stomp the same guys with that re-sprung KDX. The only thing holding me back now in a big way is the suspension. I bought it used w/Enduro Engineering re-valve set up for 180 lbs/desert, the thing is scaring me to death when I stay with the boys. I've only come across a couple guys/posts that have this issue??

Anyway, I failed to mention that the DDK needle increases fuel range and in conjunction with seeing how much you can lean the jets out you should get good performance. Other than the base gasket you'll have to start throwing $$ at the thing. Of course a $375 212cc kit/porting would put a stop to all other mods. considerations. The additional things I've done have increased mid/top power and response. I'm not sure about the Torque Ring alone, as I installed it along with an FMF ignition(stellar hit and revs). Pipe/silencer combo's can wait, IMHO.

:confused:
 
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