I need some opinions, stories, and facts about the 1994 RM125. I've got one nearby for $1400 or best in the swap sheet. I'm going to go take a ride on it tomorrow, but I was wondering if there are any trouble spots to look out for. Guy says its in real good condition, I hope so, my last deal on a 88 KX250 just fell through, and maybe that was for the best. 125's start so much easier anyways. ;-)
1994 RM125 Opinioins
- Thread starter atc3434`
- Start date
CanadianRidr
Sponsoring Member
- Oct 22, 2001
- 2,021
- 0
Okay ill tell you what I know, hopefully it helps LOL :)
Okay first get the bike up on a center stand. Or a stand where both wheels are off the ground. Check both wheels to make sure the bearings are good, grab the wheels and give them a shake and check side to side movement, there should be none.
Also check for chain and sproket wear, the teeth should not be hooked and the chain should be easily moved and not have stiff links. However if the chain is super loose inbetween links, chances are it's hosed.
Just make sure you check wear areas like breaks, tires, and the above mentioned.
Check the frame for cracks around stress spots (top of the frame, welds, joints etc....especially around the tripple clamp area)
Check for oil leaks on the motor and the forks and shock.
Make sure the motor starts easy and runs crisp, let it warm up and take it for a ride and make sure it has good power and is not smoking badly (there could be reasons for a GOOD running bike smoking, but typically you should be able to tell what is wrong and what is right)
Make sure the brakes work good, and the bike rolls straight and smooth. Make sure the suspension is fluid and smooth as well.
If he will let you bring tools and take small things off, check to see if the airfilter is clean by simply removing two bolts from the seat.
Also remove the radiator cap and make sure the coolant is clean and isn't contaminated! This is important!
Plus check the tranny fluid cap, just check the cap to see if it's clean and smells good.
That's all I can think of for now, hope this helps! Let us know how the deal goes :)
PS. The 1994 RM's were good bikes. I remember the 1995 won the 125 of the year by more than one mag!
Okay first get the bike up on a center stand. Or a stand where both wheels are off the ground. Check both wheels to make sure the bearings are good, grab the wheels and give them a shake and check side to side movement, there should be none.
Also check for chain and sproket wear, the teeth should not be hooked and the chain should be easily moved and not have stiff links. However if the chain is super loose inbetween links, chances are it's hosed.
Just make sure you check wear areas like breaks, tires, and the above mentioned.
Check the frame for cracks around stress spots (top of the frame, welds, joints etc....especially around the tripple clamp area)
Check for oil leaks on the motor and the forks and shock.
Make sure the motor starts easy and runs crisp, let it warm up and take it for a ride and make sure it has good power and is not smoking badly (there could be reasons for a GOOD running bike smoking, but typically you should be able to tell what is wrong and what is right)
Make sure the brakes work good, and the bike rolls straight and smooth. Make sure the suspension is fluid and smooth as well.
If he will let you bring tools and take small things off, check to see if the airfilter is clean by simply removing two bolts from the seat.
Also remove the radiator cap and make sure the coolant is clean and isn't contaminated! This is important!
Plus check the tranny fluid cap, just check the cap to see if it's clean and smells good.
That's all I can think of for now, hope this helps! Let us know how the deal goes :)
PS. The 1994 RM's were good bikes. I remember the 1995 won the 125 of the year by more than one mag!
CDR has all the facts on what to look for with any used bike. My son has a '94 RM125 and it is a real good bike. $1400 sounds a little high but if it is in great shape it can be worth it.
- Thread starter
- #4
Check rode the pick yesterday, fired right up on the second kick, not bad for 30 degrees out. Slow warming up, let it idle for about 1 1/2 minutes before riding it, had a lean spot down low. Didn't rip it too hard on the top, but it pulled nice and hard on the pipe. Fresh clutch, chain, sprockets, and brakes. Got him to go to 1300... going to pick it up friday. I'm sure I'll be back with plenty of questions. One have now is what was the Fatty (FMF?) pipe designed to do to the power band. It has this pipe, and I'm wondering if there is a better choice for mainly woods and trails. Thanks.
Make sure to run a thicker gear oil than 75W, the early 90 RM's have a badly designed tranny. If you find the bike popping out of gear, into a false neutral, go with a 85W oil and the prob will disappear. I had this prob on my 90 RM and the heavier weight oil instantly got rid of the problem. Also check the linkage bearings, and the wheel bearings, I easily rip through a set per year. Other than that, bike's been good.
I use the cheapest 10w-40 in the tranny with no problems. I change it everyother ride.
The Fatty pipe will give it more low end. I also put low tension Carbon Tech reeds in my son's and a 51 tooth rear sprocket for better woods ridding.
The Fatty pipe will give it more low end. I also put low tension Carbon Tech reeds in my son's and a 51 tooth rear sprocket for better woods ridding.
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks for the replies fellas. I'll probably change that tranny oil after I ride it saturday. If I ride it saturday... I just saw a weather advisory calling for at least 1 more foot of snow, and there is 6" out there already! Oh well, thanks for the help, I'll keep my eye on the tranny.