Dumb Question!

[ryanbranscum]

Sorry, I haven't got my manual yet and we are getting good weather in a couple days so I want to ride a little but I just got the bike and I want to change the oil....Does it take 1 quart or how many...What is a good brand of oil....and also how do I check the compression on the cylinder...Thank you for the help

 

[macdaddyk321]

I don't know the answers to your questions but I would bet both of them could be answered by doing a search on here. I did a few searches on Q's that I had and was amazed at what I found. Just trying to help.

 

[ryanbranscum]

Thank you, can you tell i'm new to the site!

 

[Chili]

I'm not sure for the 03 it will either be 750cc or 850cc. it will be marked on the side of the case right near the filler hole.

 

[FruDaddy]

I use Bel-Ray 75w in my smoker trannies. The volume for my KX250 is about 850ml, but you can find the volume for your bike on the case, probably within 3 inches of the fill hole. If you have a sight window, verify the volume by looking at it while the bike is on the stand and reasonably level. If you don't get it all out, you don't have to put as much in.

 

[ryanbranscum]

There isn't a sight window...

 

[76GMC1500]

Kawasaki and Yamaha use sight windows. Honda uses a tell-tale bolt, I don't know what Suzuki does. But, if you don't see the sight window, it probably does use a tell-tale bolt. You remove this bolt and fill until oil comes out. Then, reinstall the bolt. The bike will be marked with the exact capacity on the case somewhere. It will be between 600 and 850cc. Stand the bike up straight while you fill it. You will probably find that it takes slightly more than the listed capacity if you use the tell-tale bolt. My CR 250 lists 600cc, but it actually takes 800cc to fill it to the tell-tale. You really should learn how to change your own oil because it should be changed every other ride if you use aluminum clutch plates which most motocross bikes run. Any gear oil (75w-90 or something similar), ATF, or SF/SG/SJ 4-stroke motor oils can be used in the transmission. I personally run 20w50 Honda GN4 (4-stroke motor oil) because the price is right and it gets changed so often that a synthetic is unecessary.

 

[Chili]

My 02 is buried in the shed right now which is buried under a large snow drift but I'm pretty sure it's 750cc, the 03 will likely be the same.

 

[ryanbranscum]

Thanks Guys!

 

[DougRoost]

If you use standard automotive oil that may be lying around your garage, be careful to use one that does NOT say "Energy Conserving" in the little circle on the label (back of the bottle). Most do nowadays, and that means it has moly in it and it will ruin your friction plates, causing slippage. The racing oils or diesel oils don't have moly, and it's hard to beat Shell Rotella T or Chevron Delo in gallon jugs for the $$. (Type F ATF works fine but I found my tranny to be quite a bit noisier with that).

 

[Ol'89r]

Any gear oil (75w-90 or something similar).

Do not run 75w 90 weight gear oil. This will cause your clutch to slip. 75w 90 gear oil belongs in the rear end of your chebby. :coocoo:

Your manual most likey suggests a 10w 30.

 

[76GMC1500]

Don't use diesel oil, that has more moly than anything else out there.

Some people do run the true gear oils, my friend uses 75w90 Hondalube in the tranny in his 02 CR250. I am going to suggest he use something different because he is comlaning that his clutch is like a lights switch.

 

[FruDaddy]

Do not run 75w 90 weight gear oil. This will cause your clutch to slip. 75w 90 gear oil belongs in the rear end of your chebby. :coocoo:

Your manual most likey suggests a 10w 30.

While this may be partially true (the manual suggestion). We must remember that this fluid is for a transmission, and not an engine (RM250). It is required to lubricate the gears, but the clutch will be swimming in it. A RWD cars rear end contains gears, and in some cases a limited slip differential. The operating characteristics are also similar. Also, it is not uncommon for a manual transmission in a car to require a 75W90, for example, my Maxima 5spd uses 80W90 in the tranny. Despite what may be said here very soon, there isn't a huge mechanical difference between a dirt bike's transmission and a car's. The largest difference being the fact that the clutch lives in the fluid. A good gear oil with the friction modifiers for an LSD would be better suited for the purpose than conventional 10W30 engine oil.

I do still feel that a proper 2-stroke tranny oil would be best.

ol'89er, I did just look back at you post as noticed what you were replying to, I don't think "any gear oil" would work. The friction modifier needs to be there (for limited slip).

 

[ryanbranscum]

I bought some Bel Ray SAE 80w...Thanks for your help

 

[ryanbranscum]

Do you guys clean the air filter every change? Good rule of thumb...

 

[Chili]

Your bike doesn't have an oil filter :) Are you referring to the air filter?

 

[snb73]

From my 2003 RM250 manual:

Oil Change = 750 ml (.8 US quart)
Transmission oil type = 10W40

If you look at the clutch cover, just below the fill plug, you will see 750 ml stamped into the case.

I have been using Rotella 15W40, it's $9 a gallon, for over a year now with no problems. The clutch works fine with no signs of slipping. I have had good results with adding a full quart.

Most 2-strokes do not have an oil filter, you should change your transmission oil at least once a week, more if riding more frequently.

The air filter should be cleaned at least once a week, again, more often if riding in dusty conditions.

My bike likes 40:1 ratio when mixing gas/oil. I use Mobile MX2T, it's fully synthetic, inexpensive and can be found at most chain auto stores.

Good luck, Steve.

 

[2strokerfun]

and can be found at most chain auto stores.

Except any in Tulsa I happen to venture into.

 

[Chili]

We put a fresh air filter in the bike every ride. I have 3-5 filters for each bike and just toss them into a bucket when we change them, once I'm out it's filter cleaning time.

 

[SKIDOOrider800]

I clean mine every 3rd ride....2 rides if dusty..
oil change every ~10 hours. I ran Penzoil 10w40 last time round and will probably keep with it. Its cheaper than dealer stuff, seems to work good.

on a side note, isn't the way the calculate the viscosity a bit different for tranny oils. for instance....a 80weight tranny oil would be similar to a 40weight erngine oil.

 

[Ol'89r]

One thing to keep in mind is the viscosity of a 'true automotive 80 - 90 weight gear oil'. While it may cushion the gears better than a 10w-30, it may be too thick to properly flow through the small orifices in a motorcycle gearbox. Most of the gear shaft bearings in the gearbox of an mx bike oil through very small holes and orifices that run through the middle of the shafts themselves. On most two strokes these shafts are gravity fed. If you run an oil that is to high in viscosity, you run the risk of starving the shaft bearings for oil. If your bike sits for a long period of time, this type of oil can gum up and actually plug up the oiling holes. This could result in more problems than just a slipping clutch.

In an automotive application the gears are fed mostly by splash and the orfices that feed the internal shafts and bushings are much larger than on a motorcycle.

The factorys have their reasons for making viscosity recommendations. It's best not to stray to far from those recommendations.

Just my $ .02

 

[FruDaddy]

Fair enough, and I do stick with lubes designed for the purpose by reputable companies.