76GMC1500

Uhhh...
Oct 19, 2006
2,142
1
Either my flywheel weight trashed the main bearing or vibration from a bad main bearing trashed the flywheel weight, but I've got to split cases to replace them. The trouble is, the remains of the flywheel weight are between me and removing the flywheel. I tried a pipe wrench, but the bike keeps rolling forward, even with the brake on. I need to figure out a way to retain the flywheel or put an impact wrench on the remains of the weight. I thought about a Craftsman Bolt-Out, but they don't make one big enough.

PDRM3689.jpg
 

IndyMX

Crash Test Dummy
~SPONSOR~
Jul 18, 2006
5,548
2
Amo, IN
I'd shove a piece of nylon rope in thru the plug hole... it'll lock up the engine way better than trying to rely on the rear brake to do the job.

I have a dedicated piece in my tool box I use for just such a purpose. Plus, it won't screw up your cylinder. Just make sure you have a long enough piece so that you have enough to grab hold of to remove it. Perhaps a knot in one end will prevent it from all going in.
 

IndyMX

Crash Test Dummy
~SPONSOR~
Jul 18, 2006
5,548
2
Amo, IN
It works really well...

Motion Pro sells a deal that screws into the plug hole, does about the same job.. Just locks up the piston...

I had extra rope..
 

76GMC1500

Uhhh...
Oct 19, 2006
2,142
1
It's really tight. I don't want to damage the con-rod bearings so I'm going to try to hold the actual flywheel itself.
 

84cr125

Member
Apr 8, 2007
292
0
GMC, i took Indy's advice on doing the rope thing, it worked without any isses.
If you refuse to do it, get one of the tools that you use to remove oil filters on tractors and cars. ive gotton mine off by using that tool beofre i heard of the rope technique.
 

76GMC1500

Uhhh...
Oct 19, 2006
2,142
1
Ok, I got it. I used a 4.5" grinder to grind the nub down small enough I could get one of my Craftsman Bolt-Outs on it and I used a pipe wrench on the metal piece riveted to the flywheel to keep it from turning. I tried to use an impact wrench on the bolt out, but it just stripped the thing out instantly. Thankfully, the next size down fit but the impact stripped that one out instantly as well. I used the bolt-out with the impact wrench to machine a bigger shoulder for me to grab on to with the 3rd smaller size and then used a regular wrench. Some hamming and one shaved off knuckle later, the remains of the weight finally backed off.
 

76GMC1500

Uhhh...
Oct 19, 2006
2,142
1
It appears Moose uses Nachi bearings, the same as are installed now. The old bearings held up fine, so I think I can live with the Nachi bearings again.
 

quintwatson

Member
Jan 22, 2006
30
0
Congrats on getting it removed on your own. I would think that with the bike in gear and a pipe shoved through (across) the real wheel, that it would hold just fine against the swingarm. Then you wouldn't need to worry about holding the rear brake or using a pipe wrench on your flywheel.
 

76GMC1500

Uhhh...
Oct 19, 2006
2,142
1
It took something like 50 ftlbs to break the thing loose. Considering the engine only puts out around 20 ftlbs of torque, I didn't want to put that much load on the transmission.
 

76GMC1500

Uhhh...
Oct 19, 2006
2,142
1
$55 for Moose/All Balls seals and bearings. The shop charged me last year's price, which was nice. They'll be in tommorow so I can have the bike up and running by the weekend.
 

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