lwsmithjr

~SPONSOR~
Sep 18, 2002
194
0
I bought a '99 YZ 250 about a year ago. The guy I bought it from told me it had Race Tech Gold Valves and was set up for a 220 lb. rider. However, the springs are stock. I weigh 190 so I attributed the harshness I was experiencing to the previous owners set-up. I had to run the compression clickers almost all the way soft to get any fork action at all, but the thing would bottom fairly easily. I adjusted the oil level to 100mm but it still bottoms.

I had never done more than replace the seals on the front forks, but I finally had enough and took the thing apart last night. It wasn't as bad of a job as I had feared. Sure enough, it has the Gold Valves, but the shim stack makes no sense what-so-ever. I have the Race Tech compression chart, and the set-up on the bike is no where to be found. This is what I found beginning at the bottom of the stack (next to the compression valve):
1) .10x11
2) .10x12
3) .10x13
4) .10x12
5) .15x21
6) .15x21
7) .15x21
I'm guessing 1 - 3 are supposed to be the high speed stack and 4 - 7 are supposed to be the low speed stack?? Also right next to the compression valve (under the stack) were two spacers -- one about 5mm thick and then what appears to be a regular washer (or a really thick shim). The instructions mention a washer, but nothing about a spacer.

My questions are:
1) Could the lack of correct shims in the High Speed stack cause the severe harshness of the fork? Am I blowing through the stroke?
2) Is this 5mm spacer supposed to be there or is that another problem?
3) Where can I get shims without buying 10 of every size I need?
4) It also appears that he did the RT recommended mid-valve modification. Is this a good thing?

I'm a 40+ guy so I'm not burning up any tracks, but I do think this system should offer more than what I'm getting. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

Len :bang:
 

KTM-Lew

Member
Jan 26, 2002
428
0
For one thing you need the mid-valve. I can't help you with that here.

Since you have the charts I would just start with a know build like CH8 or what ever strikes your fancy. Try it and see if it's better. Just get in the ball-park with a known stack. Get it so you can make it soft or harsh with the clickers. Then you can go up or down the chart to fine tune. If say the CH8 was so soft you had to turn the clickers way in but it still had decent bottoming resistance you could add a CL setting to make the clickers more effective without changing the high-speed as dramatically.

You really need the mid-valve to get it right, tho!

Good Luck!
 

marcusgunby

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jan 9, 2000
6,450
2
It does appear you have a stack with little hs, you could easy put some more back in to try, mx tech sell shims.
Some hate the removal of the mid-i would try to tune the fork as it is and if you cant get it better , get the mid back in.Its not going to be easy to get all the shims etc to rebould the mid, you may also have a leaking cylinder valve-this would cause the same problems.

the spacers are just that-spacer to take up the space of all the missing shims.
 

lwsmithjr

~SPONSOR~
Sep 18, 2002
194
0
So, do you guys feel I should go with just the single stage valving or do as RT suggest and use two stage (high and low speed). The way I understand it, two stage is supposed to be for us slower guys??

Also, how do I check for a leaking cylinder?
 

lwsmithjr

~SPONSOR~
Sep 18, 2002
194
0
After reading all of that, I think I should just sell the thing. I'll never get it right. That on top of the fact that Race Tech wants $75.00 for a pack of 25 assorted shims.......

I'm back to :bang:
 

Welcome to DRN

No trolls, no cliques, no spam & newb friendly. Do it.

Top Bottom