Stud oxidation

[Wreckless]

My cylinder base studs have aluminum oxidation on the bottom half of them. There is still a little bit of thread there and i can still get the bolts on and off ok. Should I replace the studs?

 

[Pantaz]

Pretty cheap insurance to replace 'em.

 

[rickyd]

I would, better too be safe than sorry IMO..
Rick

 

[Peer Lovell]

Yup, I would do it before one snaps.
I clean mine with fine paper then coat them with never sieze before I install my cylinder.

 

[TravisP]

anti sieze works great and also not spraying your engine with carb cleaner it makes the two metals react against each other and causes corrosion

 

[BJAWES]

anti sieze does work well but when used on bolts or nuts that require a certian torque spec. it is not reccomended. Carb clean does not make any two metals react, the corrosion is most likly due to salty sea air. I would replace the studs and make sure you keep them clean after a ride, I use a spray clear coat (like spray paint) on mine and it works really well and keeps rust and corrosion from pitting my aluminum parts. The reason you shouldn't use anti sieze: It ends up tighting the bolts beyond spec. even with a torque wrench. Use a light oil if needed to torque bolt if you don't have a torque angle meter. hope this helps- bjawes

 

[TravisP]

actually contact cleaner does make metals react and you are supposed to use antisieze on bolts all bolts even the ones that require a torque (actually all bolts have a specified torque)

 

[BJAWES]

Trust me you are not "supposed" to use anti-sieze on all bolts. And i'm only guessing here that you must have cases of contact cleaner and that is why the corrosion set in? On all steel studs I have removed from aluminum blocks, there is corrosion, the two metals dont get along real well in changing heat conditions. Your problem dosen't seem that bad if you can still get steel nuts off of aluminum studs. I own several different torquing devices and have been a tech for 13 yrs., I know that even the plastics have torque specs on those 8mm bolts, but travis when was the last time you used a torq-wrench there? Yes engine, trans, susp. axle, ect. all have to be torqued to spec. that I think eveyone knows. Sorry for any confusion- bjawes

 

[kickstartkx]

anti sieze works good on somthin that gets really hot (like spark plug threads and studs ect) otherwise greese works just fine , and in most cases they dont say to use anti sieze or greese but it would be the smart thing to do because stuff can oxidize or get some sort of corrosion that greese or anti sieze could have prevented.
The manufatures wont tell you it because then the thing would not wear out as fast and if they wear out that means you buy new and new put $$ in their pockets

 

[MrLuckey]

Disimilar metals react when there is any electolyte present. It produces galvanic current/corosion. You can make a battery out of an orange, a copper rod and a zinc rod. Whatever you put on the threads (if anything) shouldn't be conductive.

 

[RM_guy]

Published torque specs are for dry threads. No lube at all. If you insist on lubing then the torque has to be backed off 20 to 30%. If you don't then you risk stripping the threads. Friction on the dry threads is taken into consideration with the torque value. If you remove that friction with lube then you have to compensate by reducing the torque spec.

How bad is the corrosion? Is the stud pitted? If so then replace it, otherwise just clean it off.