Mrobbins

~SPONSOR~
Sep 28, 2002
172
0
My clutch cable was worn through the plastic and my lever was pretty worn and loose. The clutch itself was working fine right up to the last ride. Today I installed a new clutch perch/lever and a new clutch cable (97 KDX 220). Even with the free play out of the new cable the clutch would not disengage (rear wheel would not turn with the bike in gear and clutch pulled in). Took the cable off the clutch end. Then used a wrench on the cable tab at the clutch end to pull the clutch all the way in and it still did not disengage. Shifted the tranny into neutral and now it is stuck there. Anybody got clue as to what is wrong/what to do next? :|

TIA for any help.
 

skipro3

Mod Ban
Dec 14, 2002
902
0
The lever rod that runs down into the clutch cover may have been rotated. If you have a manual, look at the exploded diagram or check out buykawasaki.com for a parts diagram. The clutch rod has a flat side and a round side. The flat side is to face the clutch. You will need to pull the clutch cover off to check this out. The gasket is usually reuseable. At least I've never had to replace mine and I've had it off at least a dozen times.
My suspicion is that this rod rotated or got out of whack somehow. By pulling the clutch cover, you can see how this is supposed to operate. Then it should be pretty clear how it's supposed to work.
I usually mark all my parts I'm disassembling with a sharpie permenant pen so I can tell how they are supposed to line up when reassembled.
I know it's not much but hope this helps.
 

Mrobbins

~SPONSOR~
Sep 28, 2002
172
0
Thanks, that a start. I have the parts diagram printed and see what you mean. Will pull the cover off in the morning if i get a chance time.

Just did brakes and tires too getting ready for the last few enduros of the season. WAH!
 

skipro3

Mod Ban
Dec 14, 2002
902
0
Correct on that spring KDXF. That's another spot I put a swipe of permenant ink marker on when the spring is installed right. That way, when I get it back together, the ink marking should be a straight line and not diagonal. I know, hard to visualize but I think it's worth explaining anyway. Pay particular attention to where the little spring tabs contact the arm so they get put back in the same spots or the spring resistance will not be right.

If you lean the bike over enough, you won't need to drain the oil from the motor to pull the cover. It's also much easier to work on the clutch this way as you don't have to bend so far over or lay on the ground to get a straight on view.
 
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