Hello DYDRs

[td center]

I am a rider from northeastern NJ(Bergen County) and recently posted in the New Member? Welcome! Go here first. forum, and a few people mentioned I should check out the DYDR club.
This is my first year ever riding, but I managed to make the most of it by riding at Ace and Diamonback, and Lembo Lake in NY, Jack Frost(Traxx) in PA, and Connecticut River in CT. Had a blast!
I just got my engine back from Forward Motion(Eric Gorr) and was hoping to get in a few more rides before the season is over. How late into the year do you guys typically ride?
Well, just wanted to introduce myself, and hopefully be able to go riding with some of you sometime. In the meantime I am trying to learn as much as humanly possible about dirtbikes and riding :)

 

[RM_guy]

Welcome! Most of us ride until the snow flys and them some keep right on riding :ohmy: You just missed a ride at Paragon Adventure Park (in Hazelton,PA) this past Saturday. There may be another one on 11/13 if the weather holds. Keep an eye on the Places to Ride fourm.

Feel free to post in the Places to Ride anytime you want to hook up with someone to ride. We are a very, very loose group and only make specific plans for groups ride in the Spring and Fall.

 

[td center]

Feel free to post in the Places to Ride anytime you want to hook up with someone to ride. We are a very, very loose group and only make specific plans for groups ride in the Spring and Fall.

Sounds good. And thanks for the welcome :)

 

[Treejumper]

Hey, welcome to the group. There's several folks who make it to Paragon almost monthly or sometimes weekly. So anytime you feel like checking it out just post in the places to ride forum like Dave mentioned.

 

[knobbiethrower]

Welcome ! Hope to see you sometime at Paragon or a local MX track !

 

[td center]

Never been to Paragon, but have heard a lot about it. Still haven't put my bike back together yet after receiving it from Forward Motion, but as soon as I do hopefully we can meet up for a ride. Thanks again for the welcome! :)

 

[CaptainObvious]

Let me know if you need any help getting your CR back together.

 

[Shaw520]

TD,
Welcome to DRN, I race nearly all D34 events, Diamondback, Ace, Walden, Claverack. Im already looking forward to the opening races in March of 05'.
But,... This is always a tough time of year,.... D34 is finished, and there is still plenty of great riding weather left. So I have been looking for some other dist/events to keep going.
This weekend Doublin Gap MX is running, (Shippensburg Pa.), & there's Hogback H/S event in Palmyra NY.
Also there's Arenacross at the Pepsi arena near Albany, a 3 day event, pro/experts on fri-sat, and amatures ride on sunday. I have never competed in an areacross event before, but I am thinking bout trying this one. :think:
Last weekend I went to Rocky Hill MX in Ct (practice track), good track, but a bit of a drive from the Dutchess Co area.
Englishtown runs their practice track till the snow flies www.etownraceway.com
Maybe other DY's will know some events or practice tracks that are still open.
If anyone is going to the Pepsi Arenacross this weekend let me know ! :aj:

 

[td center]

Let me know if you need any help getting your CR back together.

Well actually, all that I have left is to bleed the brakes, front and rear(rear especially so I can put the subframe back on). I read this on another forum and was wondering what you thought about bleeding your brakes this way...I have never had to do them before:

"If your having trouble bleeding your front or rear brakes hears an easy way to do it. Get a 20oz coke bottle or something with a lid on it and get some rubber tubing. Drill a hole in the top of the cap and push the tubing threw the hole, it should be kinda tight. Next drill a smaller hole next to the other for a breather hole. Now put about 1/4 of the botle full of old brake fluid and put the tube down into the fluid. Now when you belld your brakes place the tube end sticking out of the bottle onto the fitting of the brake bleed nipple. Now fill the resevoir full of good fluid and begin to pump the brakes slowly. the bottle with the fluid should be blowing bubls if you are getting air out. The bottle makes it where you dont have to keep opening and closing the bleeder screw everytime you let the brake lever up. When the fluid in the bottle quits blowing bubbles and the fluid just rises up everytime you pull the lever, tighten the bleed screw and check your brakes, they should be hard and all the air out. Walaa your done..."

I have a few questions about this...do you think this is the best way or have any tips to do it another way? Also if I do go this route, shouldn't I start by placing NEW brake fluid into the coke bottle? Do you know what size hose fits on the brake's nipple?

Last question is:
I got a FMF Fatty (Nickel plated) off of **** which is supposedly new, but I did not know it sat around in the guys (garage) for 4 years I guess? and has some surface rust. _I tried WD-40 on it, but if I am going to sell it eventually I want it to shine like new if possible...any ideas on how to do this?

Thanks in advance! :)

Shaw520 that's pretty cool that you are that hardcore into racing. I am still new to motocross/bikes in general but maybe one day I'll race against ya' ;)
You mentioned Englishtown, and I have heard they have a great practice track which I will eventually get to try out. I am also planning on taking lessons there. If you know of anywhere else to get some really goold training, let me know. Thanks.

 

[knobbiethrower]

I'll be at the pepsi friday night with my daughter. Section 120, row Q. hopefully see you there Shaw. Maybe I'll just have race some D34 events next year.haven't riden with you for over a year.

TD, we have a track outside of Albany called Eagle Bridge. The website is EBMX.net, check it out.

 

[Shaw520]

Knobbie, Good to hear from ya man ! :) Thats cool that your bringing your daughter to the Pepsi to see the fast guys friday, I would show up and give Jesseman a run for his money, but I think I'll stay home that night and bake a pie. :think: :nener: hehehe,.
I wont be there till Sunday morning sign-up, race the slow guys, (more my speed) ;)
But hell yea, lets keep in touch, it'll be awesome if you do some D34's with me next year ! I had a blast this past season. :aj:

 

[CaptainObvious]

I read this on another forum and was wondering what you thought about bleeding your brakes this way...I have never had to do them before:

I have a few questions about this...do you think this is the best way or have any tips to do it another way? Also if I do go this route, shouldn't I start by placing NEW brake fluid into the coke bottle? Do you know what size hose fits on the brake's nipple?

You shouldn't have to go through any of that. It seems excessive for such a simple job. I do recommend that you use clear tubing (1/4 inch I think) leading into some sort of container to capture the expelled fluid, though. If you don't have any air in the system now, a simple "pump-n-dump" will work. FWIW, because of their design and routing of the brake lines, Honda's brakes are easy to bleed, even when air is present.

I got a FMF Fatty (Nickel plated) off of **** which is supposedly new, but I did not know it sat around in the guys (garage) for 4 years I guess? and has some surface rust. _I tried WD-40 on it, but if I am going to sell it eventually I want it to shine like new if possible...any ideas on how to do this?

Yeah, that plating doesn't usually last more than a season. Usually you can tell when a pipe is used because the section behind the front wheel is the first to loose its coating. I know you want it to look pretty, but after a few rides you'll forget about it...especially after it starts to pick-up some dings. It's a loosing battle.

 

[RM_guy]

...TD, we have a track outside of Albany called Eagle Bridge. The website is EBMX.net, check it out.

I really enjoied riding at Eagle Bridge. The GP track was great! We ought to plan another ride up there. The 3.5 hour drive for me wasn't that bad :ohmy:

 

[td center]

You shouldn't have to go through any of that. It seems excessive for such a simple job. I do recommend that you use clear tubing (1/4 inch I think) leading into some sort of container to capture the expelled fluid, though. If you don't have any air in the system now, a simple "pump-n-dump" will work. FWIW, because of their design and routing of the brake lines, Honda's brakes are easy to bleed, even when air is present.

What do you mean by "pump-n-dump"? I am pretty sure that I do have air in the lines, because the brakes are very mushy and unresponsive. Any idea how to go about bleeding the brakes an easier way than what I had written in my other post? Thanks in advance!

Yeah, that plating doesn't usually last more than a season. Usually you can tell when a pipe is used because the section behind the front wheel is the first to loose its coating. I know you want it to look pretty, but after a few rides you'll forget about it...especially after it starts to pick-up some dings. It's a loosing battle.

Well, I think the pipe is new(also what the seller told me). It just has some surface rust....it looks like it has been sittingaround for a while(the seller even said it had been....for 4 years). I know making it look good shouln't be too big of a deal, but I plan on selling the bike very soon(over the winter) and would like the pipe to shine as much as possible. I am not sure I will even get to ride the bike with the new pipe, as I am debating letting the bike sit with it's newly rebuilt engine that hasn't even seen gas yet, or filling up a tankful and putting around to break it in before I sell it.

If I don't sell it, I will definitely be ready for a ride soon! :laugh:

 

[CaptainObvious]

By "pump-n-dump" I mean pump up the brake handle, and while squeezing it, open the bleeder valve. Make sure to close the bleeder valve before the handle bottoms-out on the grip. It’s a straightforward procedure. You shouldn’t need to do anything elaborate like the fluid in a jug method you mentioned. At least see how a simple pump-n-dump goes first.

All of this work into the bike and you don’t even plan on riding it?

 

[td center]

All of this work into the bike and you donÍt even plan on riding it?

I know...call me crazy :bang:

Actually, I doubt I am going to get a CRF250 as early as I was hoping for....so I am sure I will still be riding this bike for a while.

 

[td center]

rv6junkie....can you shoot me an email please(you can get my mail from click my name right?) I don't have IM priveleges on here yet. Thanks! :cool:

 

[oldguy]

Here is a link to a thread on bleeding brakes http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=104165&page=1&pp=10&highlight=bleeding
There are several others if you use the search and put in bleeding

 

[td center]

Here is a link to a thread on bleeding brakes http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=104165&page=1&pp=10&highlight=bleeding
There are several others if you use the search and put in bleeding

Thanks oldguy....bled the brakes and all went well. Just have one more hurdle to get past, and maybe I will be able to ride again before the snow falls. :)

 

[CaptainObvious]

Are you still having problems with the axle? Did you check your wheel bearings? That could casue the hub assembly to twist as you are apply torque to the axle nut.

 

[td center]

Are you still having problems with the axle? Did you check your wheel bearings? That could casue the hub assembly to twist as you are apply torque to the axle nut.

Well, unfortunately I have not had a chance to get to work on the axle problem, but yes that was what I meant. Any suggestions for popping out the wheel bearings without any special tools, or damaging them?
Hopefully that will also solve the problem of why that marks on the chain side axle block always seem to be off a little from where I set them when I torque the axle nut to 94 ft/lbs.
After that, it's just reassembling some stuff and it will be good to go!

Thanks everyone for your help and input!! :cool:

 

[CaptainObvious]

Wheel bearing are easy to change. Simply remove the retaining clips and drive them out from the back side. To reseat the new bearing, it would be good to use a brass drift pin. Do a search on the subject, but note that you shouldn't have to heat the hub or anything else like that.

 

[RM_guy]

...Any suggestions for popping out the wheel bearings without any special tools, or damaging them?...

You can drive them out with a punch like Junkie says but don't try to reuse them. You are pounding on the inner race to get them out and it can severly damage the whole bearing. The only reason you'd ever remove them is to replace them so it isn't a problem.

 

[td center]

Well took the axle back out regreased the axle and axle spacers, and still somewhat of the same problem. First I was still having the problem of when tightening the axle nut that the axle block would move away from the adjustment screw. So I rotated the axle 180 degrees(didn't switch sides the nut was on....just spun the axle so the grooves in the block were now touch the other side of the flat end on the axle) This stopped the axle blocks from moving away from the adjustment screws which is what I was hoping for, but still after tightening to 94 ft/lbs the wheel didn't want to turn. I checked the axle spacers had clicked into place correctly and they were fully greased but still didn't want to turn more than an inch when trying to spin the wheel.
Also I noticed, when putting the axle in, I was able to slide it in with my hand for the first 3/4 of the axle(though still needed some force) but that to get the last 2 inches of the axle into the hub, I needed to use a mallot. Is this normal?
Thanks for any more suggestions you may have! :)

 

[td center]

THE AXLE PROBLEM IS FIXED Thanks everyone for your help!