I just installed the first 250/300/380 Revloc clutch on a 2000 300.
I I decided on the purchase for several reasons.
-Good reviews for tight woods, rocks, mud
-Doesn't stall when you drop your bike
-My clutch hand falls asleep a lot-carpal tunnel
-Thought I could sell the clutch
I've had one trail ride and one day of motocross on it so far.
The clutch works as described-put it in gear and gas it to ride away!
The trail ride was on snotty wet clay hills, tight off camber deer trails, swamp, and muddy motocross track. I dumped the bike on hills you couldn't stand on and the bike just idled. Picked it up, gave it a little gas and motored on. The engagement was just above idle. Revloc gives you shims to adjust the engagement point higher as desired. After the first ride I adjusted the idle and set the engagement point higher. This allowed for easier starting in gear and more snap off the line. I only stalled the bike while starting it in gear. Increasing the engagement helped a lot. Just don't gas it when you're kicking or you'll launch :D
Three guys tried it that day-one A rider, two B riders. I'm a B rider, hare scrambles and enduros. Everyone liked the clutch, one B rider wants to buy one. The consensus was it improved everyone's ability to corner on the track, sloppy hills were easier, and you could leave it in one gear more often. The A rider regretted the cost-said he'd buy one but couldn't afford it.
I raced a motocross for the first time in 25 years at motomasters in Mexico, NY. This is a natural terrain course with sand and dirt. Two enduro guys decided to enter Open novice and 40+. The course was filthy muddy with footpeg deep ruts and incredibly sloppy sand mud you had trouble walking. I was the only guy with a license plate and headlight racing. I had problems with starets. I stuck it in 2nd and gassed it when the gate dropped. It worked but I definitely would like to rev it and dump the clutch for the start. The clutch lever works if you don't rev it too much. According to Revloc Chuck Sun is doing very well with his Husaberg equipped bike, winning a 40+ experts overall last week. I wonder how he does starts...
Three A riders tried the clutch. All really liked it with one really wanting one and the other two liking it but not wanting to spend the money.We also tried HS starts. In 2nd, the bike kicks and blasts straight off the line. Compared to a piped DRZ400, it was quicker than the A rider E-starting next to me. For the tight woods and rocks here it means your left hand doesn't get such a workout.
In the open areas the bike seems to accelerate slower but I noticed I needed to downshift to get the revs up- I was still riding it in a higher gear than I needed. The clutch makes it easy to do that. If you're in too high a gear, the clutch will slip until the revs climb high enough to engage.
My left hand was ecstatic- no falling asdleep, easier to hold on, no stalls during any of the four motos.
If you can afford it and do long tight rides or races this is a godsend. You spend less effort because you don't have to start the bike after dropping it or stalling in a corner. I still need to better adjust to the differences.
How it works-
The clutch is a series of 72 ball bearings and ramps forcing the clutch plates together as the engine revs climb. As the engine turns the balls are centrifugally flung out and the clutch plates compressed. The higher the revs the stronger the clamping force on the clutch pack. The inner and outer clutch baskets need to be machined. A new pressure plate containing the ball and ramps is installed in the modified baskets. The principle is the same as the power valve mechanism for a 2-stroke. It installs in the same space as the old clutch. It also comes with a set of fiber plates for the grand total of $995.
I I decided on the purchase for several reasons.
-Good reviews for tight woods, rocks, mud
-Doesn't stall when you drop your bike
-My clutch hand falls asleep a lot-carpal tunnel
-Thought I could sell the clutch
I've had one trail ride and one day of motocross on it so far.
The clutch works as described-put it in gear and gas it to ride away!
The trail ride was on snotty wet clay hills, tight off camber deer trails, swamp, and muddy motocross track. I dumped the bike on hills you couldn't stand on and the bike just idled. Picked it up, gave it a little gas and motored on. The engagement was just above idle. Revloc gives you shims to adjust the engagement point higher as desired. After the first ride I adjusted the idle and set the engagement point higher. This allowed for easier starting in gear and more snap off the line. I only stalled the bike while starting it in gear. Increasing the engagement helped a lot. Just don't gas it when you're kicking or you'll launch :D
Three guys tried it that day-one A rider, two B riders. I'm a B rider, hare scrambles and enduros. Everyone liked the clutch, one B rider wants to buy one. The consensus was it improved everyone's ability to corner on the track, sloppy hills were easier, and you could leave it in one gear more often. The A rider regretted the cost-said he'd buy one but couldn't afford it.
I raced a motocross for the first time in 25 years at motomasters in Mexico, NY. This is a natural terrain course with sand and dirt. Two enduro guys decided to enter Open novice and 40+. The course was filthy muddy with footpeg deep ruts and incredibly sloppy sand mud you had trouble walking. I was the only guy with a license plate and headlight racing. I had problems with starets. I stuck it in 2nd and gassed it when the gate dropped. It worked but I definitely would like to rev it and dump the clutch for the start. The clutch lever works if you don't rev it too much. According to Revloc Chuck Sun is doing very well with his Husaberg equipped bike, winning a 40+ experts overall last week. I wonder how he does starts...
Three A riders tried the clutch. All really liked it with one really wanting one and the other two liking it but not wanting to spend the money.We also tried HS starts. In 2nd, the bike kicks and blasts straight off the line. Compared to a piped DRZ400, it was quicker than the A rider E-starting next to me. For the tight woods and rocks here it means your left hand doesn't get such a workout.
In the open areas the bike seems to accelerate slower but I noticed I needed to downshift to get the revs up- I was still riding it in a higher gear than I needed. The clutch makes it easy to do that. If you're in too high a gear, the clutch will slip until the revs climb high enough to engage.
My left hand was ecstatic- no falling asdleep, easier to hold on, no stalls during any of the four motos.
If you can afford it and do long tight rides or races this is a godsend. You spend less effort because you don't have to start the bike after dropping it or stalling in a corner. I still need to better adjust to the differences.
How it works-
The clutch is a series of 72 ball bearings and ramps forcing the clutch plates together as the engine revs climb. As the engine turns the balls are centrifugally flung out and the clutch plates compressed. The higher the revs the stronger the clamping force on the clutch pack. The inner and outer clutch baskets need to be machined. A new pressure plate containing the ball and ramps is installed in the modified baskets. The principle is the same as the power valve mechanism for a 2-stroke. It installs in the same space as the old clutch. It also comes with a set of fiber plates for the grand total of $995.
