TEXAS INVADES MEXICO aka Uncle Rogers Tour of Mexico

[Tony Eeds]

Day Two (continued)

Rounding a simple left hand downhill corner, my rear end broke lose and the next thing I know I fishtail and am heading directly towards the edge of the road and a LARGE drop off. I manage to lowside the bike and come to a halt just shy of the edge of the road.

Whew, that was close ...

I jump up and start waving my arms at the other six riders, but they don’t see me from the other side of the canyon and I am soon alone in the quiet of the canyon.

I slip up under the bike and turn off the gas. Now to check out the balance of the bike and me ...

My right knee aches. Apparently I twisted it when I laid the bike down. Not to worry, it does not appear bad.

The right handguard has twisted off and broken at the inner mount, but it did its’ job and saved the master cylinder and brake lever.

I unload the gear bag and tool bag off the back and upright the bike. Just after getting the gear strapped back on the bike and now feeling the pain of my knee, wondering how I was going to start the pig, group two (then and there dubbed the sweep riders) pull up. Jeremy jumps off his R and soon has mine running, as he knows the drill.

From fall to restart consumes maybe 20~30 minutes of sunshine ...

Back on the bike, we motor on towards Batopilas.

I even manage to fire off a couple of photos along the way.

I pass Steve coming back to look for me after a bit and give him a half ass thumbs up. The knee now hurts pretty bad. Soon John appears on the edge of the road and I muddle on The sign for Batopilas is a sight for sore eyes and Steve heads off into the dust of the Chicken Bus as I pass the Hotel Margarita.

Perched on the side of a rock cliff, the hotel proves to be the most stunning architecture in town. I wish now that I had stopped to take some photographs, but alas, that will have to wait for the next trip ... soon ...

Meandering along the edge of the canyon just above the river, I soon come to a bridge that deposits us back on the north side of the canyon and into Batopilas proper. Just after the bridge John passes me, so I guessed I was going the correct direction. A few wrong turns and I manage to lead myself and someone (I’ve forgotten who shadowed me) to the main plaza, where I find other bikes parked. The town is strung out about a mile (or so) along the edge of the river. Never more than a few blocks wide, Batopilas reminds me of the colonial cities of Central America. Indeed, Batopilas was a important mining concern for the Spanish. Antigua is very similar to Batopilas in feel and architecture. I “heard” that buildings in Batopilas have to be historical in appearance. Bravo!!

Upon arrival, I learned that they are working on Skinny’s Husky. It died when he tried to plug in his GPS and there appears to be no spark. They are searching for fuses as Steve, John, and Ian walk and I hobble to a nearby restaurant to discuss the future for the day.

Ian, Steve and John

The Patio 5o Restaurant

While we discuss, I learn that the sweep riders have officially decided to break off and do a slower paced sightseeing trip and hook back up at Fort Hancock. Although the change appears to be common knowledge to others, my general lack of attentiveness and bad ear has left me lost in my own thoughts and world for much of the trip.

In that it is already 2:00 PM and as the sun sets early in the canyon, it was decided that Batopilas would be a stopping point, rather than pushing on to El Fuerte. John heads off to call Lupita and tell her the news, as we had scheduled to be at his in-laws in Huatabampo at noon on Sunday. With El Fuerte a long way over the horizon, it appeared to be unlikely that anyone could make Huatabampo by noon Sunday ...

(continued below)

 

[Tony Eeds]

Day Two (continued)

As mentioned, the ride had officially broken into two groups. We stayed at Hotel Mary, while Tim, Roger and the gang were bedding down at Margarita’s. We crossed paths later in the evening at the doorway to the El Zaguán Restaurante Bar, but I am getting ahead of myself.

Hotel Mary

Parking ...

It appears that Skinny is down for the count. I am still hoping, but my knee doesn’t feel all that great. Thank God for my Asterisk braces. Without them, I might have been carrying my lower leg and been in far worse pain.

Stop laughing!!

(To be continued)

 

[biglou]

Awesome. You guys are my heroes. :cool:

 

[BSWIFT]

Awesome. You guys are my heroes. :cool:

DITTO!:cool:

 

[Tony Eeds]

Day Two (continued)

We all change and wonder down to and across the suspension bridge over the river.

On the far side, we intend to pass out the candy we have brought with us to the kids running about.

At first they hide, but soon they come out of the woodwork and we are soon out of goodies.

 

[Tony Eeds]

Day Two (continued)

Coming back from the house above ...

Looking inside the Ford remains, we found it in use ...

Wondering back on the path, I am now going downhill and my knee is complaining more than a bit.

 

[Tony Eeds]

Day Two (continued)

I need to quit complaining about my house ...

The kitchen window and shelf ... all combined into one ...

Their grinder

The little girl had a doll ... sweet ... I like the plants on the windows also

Their neighbor

 

[Tony Eeds]

Day Two (continued)

Under construction ... we’ll just incorporate the boulder, rather than move it ...

I like the way they key the concrete pours together ...

Ray slows down to hang with me as we photograph the balance of the crew on the bridge over the river.

Looking back at the house under construction from the bridge

The afternoon is spent wandering about and hanging out in the sun at the plaza.

 

[Tony Eeds]

Day Two (continued)

As I mentioned above, we procured rooms at Hotel Mary. Just off the plaza, the rooms were clean and affordable. Two hundred pesos per night, for a room with two double beds. No heat, but they do have hot water and there must have been 25 pounds of blankets on the beds. I’m not exactly sure, but I may have encountered a few bedbugs while there, as I ended up with some unexplainable bug bites. No biggie really, just a few. I would recommend Hotel Mary as a good place to stay, but we encountered a couple that spoke English, which made it a bit easier on us gringos, but that is in tomorrow’s info ... soon ...

The local “City Hall”

John began scouting the town for a ride for Skinny and soon had one fellow that promised to take him to Creel on Monday for $20. Skinny promised to throw some real money at the fellow for a ride on Sunday, but the fellow balked at the offer. Something told me that he would not work out in any case.

Spying familiar bikes down the calle adjacent to Hotel Mary, we drifted that way.

The entrance to the El Zaguán Restaurante and Bar ... cold beer ... ★★★

Just as we got there, the sweep riders emerged after downing a few ...

Tim

Mike

 

[Tony Eeds]

Day Two (continued)

We took over and took up residence on the wall overlooking the rio, after scooping out the place ...

La cocina

Water supply ...

Bill, me, John, Skinny, Ray, Ian and Steve

They has dark beer, sorry for the focus ... or lack thereof ...

Sunset looking down the rio

 

[Tony Eeds]

Day Two (continued)

Dinner is at La Nevada.

Reviews varied, but I liked my chicken. They have Texas Size Roadie Beer here too and no paper sack is needed.

Ian’s dinner ... sorry I forgot what it was.

 

[Tony Eeds]

A night shot ...

Good photo of Bill

Lights out ...

Day Three soon ...

Stop Laughing!!

 

[Sawblade]

Gene/Tony,

Now thats a ride report! :cool: As someone else said, it makes me want to get on a bike and ride. :)

 

[Tony Eeds]

Day Three - Sunday
January 7, 2007

Sunday dawns early and I had made two trips to the baño, so I am well aware how weak my knee is long before I attempt to get my riding gear on. The knee actually felt better with the Asterisk brace on it and I was somewhat encouraged. Even with the brace, the balance of the gear became a challenge. Once dressed, I was faced with the reality that the knee would only bend about 80 degrees and it needed to bend at least 110, maybe 120, degrees to be able to get my foot back far enough for the peg. The light was on, but it is only 7.5 watt, and I was desperate to ignore it, in any case.

Intervention Number Three

This intervention proved to be a bummer for me, although I already knew the answer. Both Skinny and John pressured me to stop and not go on towards El Fuerte. As I said, I already knew the answer, so I decided to stop. Bummer, but at least I had Skinny to hang with, as we figured out how to get back to Presidio with our bikes.

OK, now the light was a spotlight ...

Two gringos, ten~twelve good words of Spanish between us beyond the common phrases and one UNIQUE accent. I will long remember the way Skinny says por favor.

Coming to the reality at hand let more than a little pressure off of my shoulders. I had been fighting life, actually beating on it to pound it into submission and go on this trip. Life had hit me back, first with the ear infection and now the knee.

The pressure was off ... anyone got a cold beer? Well, it was a bit early for beer, but not too late for breakfast, so breakfast it was.

Laughter returned, as is often the case, when life wins and I swallow and accept the results.

 

[Tony Eeds]

Day Three (continued)

After breakfast, as Steve, John, Bill, Ian and Hoop wrapped up packing, the sweep riders passed by, heading south to Satevo and Barranca de Batopilas. One of the sights I really wanted to see and now 6 Km might as well be 600 miles as it would be too far to attempt. In reflection, I guess I could have hired a driver, but that seemed so lame ... wait a minute ... I was lame ...

Breakfast was back at the Restaurant 5o Patio. Across the calle from the bar of last night, it seemed to be the only restaurant open on Sunday morning.

They had hotcakes ... sorry, no photos, but ... ★★★

 

[Tony Eeds]

Soon Steve and the gang were off south towards El Fuerte and Batopilas sank into the quiet of the Sunday morning. Interrupted only by the sounds of the church bells, children’s laughter and the occasional vehicle, Skinny and I enjoyed the sunshine in the plaza while updating our journals. My journal was taking on the tone of a soap opera.

Round and round she went

She got tired and grabbed a spot next to dad ...

With info updated, we returned to the room and I got out of my ride gear and into jeans that I had brought. Off came the brace, only to be replaced by the ACE bandage I had purchased on the spur of the moment for the trip. God has a way of taking are of fools and little children. I still don’t know which I am, but I was guided to toss that bandage in the basket at Albertson’s a few weeks earlier. I’m now glad I listened.

Stop Laughing!!

Day Three (to be continued soon)

 

[Tony Eeds]

This Entire Post is an Aside

The following shots are some of the sights in Batopilas ... as an Architect, I could not resist ...

Enjoy or skip on to the continuation of Day Three below ...

Warning - My passion for historical preservation is coming out!

It is said that architecture is frozen music. If that is the case, Batopilas is a symphony. As I mentioned earlier, I have “heard” that the town fathers have seen fit to require new structures to be “historic” in appearance. Bravo! Architects are guilty of the ubiquitous (Steve loves it when I work in that word) crap that assaults our senses on a daily basis. Here is a town that all members of the symphony are in tune.

In the high tech world we live in, many do not understand the high touch world we yearn for. Almost by accident of geographical location and absence of development pressure, Batopilas has maintained, and strengthened, the connection between the old and new world.

¡Salud!

 

[Tony Eeds]

Aside (continued)

An Editorial - Why do we like motorcycles?

I submit that we like bikes because of the immediate, and direct, connection with the sensory enriched, high touch, world around us. When I am on my bike, I am alive ... ALIVE!

Hermetically sealed, life has become detached modernism, shrink wrapped to prevent theft. Theft of what? Reality? Modern life has become but an imitation of reality. We all yearn for roots.

Motorcycling reconnects us to the barbarism of our past. The risk, the reward, the thrill, the danger lurk at every corner. In a blink of an eye, one wrong move, and we are granted entry into eternity and exit from this world. Dancing on the edge of the sword, in fear of that transition, we find life.

I am never more alive than when I feel the sphincter tighten ... oops, this is beyond my bubble, over the fence, so to speak. Once survived, my boundaries expand. I lengthen my view, expand my horizons.

Nothing competes with cheating death and finding life in the process.

Some call us crazy. I submit we are the definition of sanity.

 

[Tony Eeds]

Aside (continued)

Back to the aside ...

The local Catholic Church

 

[Tony Eeds]

Aside (continued)

Surrounding the plaza

 

[Tony Eeds]

Aside (continued)

About town

 

[Tony Eeds]

Aside (continued)

I will spare everyone the pleasure of the many, Many, MANY, MANY photos I took of Batopilas, but for those interested, all can be found in my Smugmug Account

Enjoy and celebrate life, because it is within that celebration that we are most alive.

 

[Tony Eeds]

Day Three (continued)

There were a couple of KLR guys from Washington (the state) staying at a guest house facing the plaza and they mentioned that the couple that ran it knew some English. We meandered across the plaza and were soon conversing with Arturo, via a translator, about our needs for a ride. He assured us that he could get us to Creel on Monday. Relieved, Skinny and I set off to enjoy the town and the day.

Located on the south (river side) of the plaza were our good Samaritans. If you need any help while in Batopilas, ask here. We will be staying there the next time we are in Batopilas. The KLR guys spoke highly of everything.

The Sweep Riders came back through and we chatted a bit about our situation and our newly found ride out scheduled for early Monday morning. They heading on back to Hotel Margarita to pack and were planning on heading north later in the morning.

Now Skinny and I were really left to our own devices. So, what do two gringos, left to their own devices do in Batopilas? We went to lunch!! Back to the Restaurant 5o Patio, as that seemed to be the only restaurant open.

Ordering went something like this ...

¡Hola!
¡Buenas tardes!
Quisiera Cuatro el Taco Carne y uno guacamole por favor...
Sí
¡Gracias!

Don’t laugh, it worked ...

I love to eat good food and in Mexico, everything I ate, was great! I love the Lemonada as well. I can only assume it was either made with bottled water, or that I have a strong gut.

Then it was off to shop ... the local LEOs had stopped in to eat and one had on a shirt that said Batopilas on it. I had to find me one ...

An aside ...

As is often the case in every culture, the more locals in the restaurant, the better. We never ate at the Restaurant 5o Patio that there were not a local or two.

 

[Tony Eeds]

Day Three (continued)

Back to the story ...

Speaking of locals, here is some of the pets and domesticated animals

Tres perro, one is asleep on the right side ...

 

[Tony Eeds]

Day Three (continued)

I love peeking in open doorways ... there is always a surprise waiting

Finally, dinner was back at the Restaurant 5o Patio ... we had not managed to find any other restaurant open and then off to Hotel Mary to get ready for an early departure tomorrow morning.

Packing complete ... except for getting off the bed ...